Paul_C

I've just been reminded of some other parts I accumulated for another upright project, three more screw holes and I now have this:

Usually I come up with these daft ideas after a glass or two of wine, but I have no excuses these days I was just about to hang a recent purchase back on the wall and was playing it with the jack socket standing on the table, which gave me an idea . . So combining the bass with a cheap (£10) pool cue : I came up with this : Not sure the height is quite there yet, and I might need some sort of strap to help keep hold of it, but other than that it's just damn silly

looks like a Kay - the two on the right have a similar headstock shape :

Status sell a dual concentric 100K lin pot - [url="http://www.status-graphite.com"]http://www.status-graphite.com[/url]

[quote name='phil.i.stein' post='839973' date='May 17 2010, 06:03 PM']slight tangent, but how about punk/metal rockin' tunes with no bass at all ?!! these two are amazing to see live.. [/quote] sounds like there's a bass on that recording though . .

one of these ?

I remember him, he used to buy and sell quite a lot of basses on here IIRC.

[quote name='Greydad' post='826632' date='May 3 2010, 05:25 PM']Nope, not at all - it's just become pretty beefy. Feels like muscle, just a bit surprised it's so noticeable. I have been playing a lot though.[/quote] you don't have muscles in your fingers

I think the current total stands at 62 - though these days I only own one

[quote name='Paul_C' post='814971' date='Apr 22 2010, 01:49 PM']according to the D'Addario charts [url="http://www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf"]http://www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf[/url] with a std. set tuned E A D G, the tensions are : E 40.3 / A 48.4 / D 51.3 / G 42.8 with the tuning raised to F B E A the tensions for a 40-100 set are: F 41.7 / B 52.9 / E 54.1 / A 42.5 and a 35-95 set are : F 38.7 / B 47.8 / E 44.5 / A 32.4 those numbers wouldn't necessarily apply to another make of strings, but it gives you an idea of the differences[/quote] just noticed that they do a 40-95 set which would be the closest match to the original tensions

[quote name='Bobby K' post='814950' date='Apr 22 2010, 01:29 PM']Hello bass friends Just wanted to ask about a tuning issue. For future gigs I'm planning on having one of my two Precisions tuned up a whole step (in F# as it were) I'm normally using standard gauges (45-105) but am considering using a lighter gauge for the [i]tuned up[/i] bass, maybe 40's, or even 35's. What are the implications of tuning up a whole step, i[i]s it safe to do so[/i], with regard to the neck etc? I'm in a Smiths tribute. Andy Rourke was often tuned up a whole step on his bass, back in the heady days of The Smiths in the early/mid 80's. I've never bothered with this tuning before now but have discovered that it would make some of the lines a lot easier to play Any thoughts would be much appreciated....[/quote] according to the D'Addario charts [url="http://www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf"]http://www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf[/url] with a std. set tuned E A D G, the tensions are : E 40.3 / A 48.4 / D 51.3 / G 42.8 with the tuning raised to F B E A the tensions for a 40-100 set are: F 41.7 / B 52.9 / E 54.1 / A 42.5 and a 35-95 set are : F 38.7 / B 47.8 / E 44.5 / A 32.4 those numbers wouldn't necessarily apply to another make of strings, but it gives you an idea of the differences

[quote name='silddx' post='812777' date='Apr 20 2010, 05:02 PM']Sorry mate, but relief is [b]directly [/b]related to the action. Too much or too little relief will cause fret buzz in different places if you set the action too low. To the OP. Fret (or capo) the E string at the 1st fret and with your your right hand fret the E string at the 12th. While you are doing this, look at the 7th / 8th frets and see how high the string is above the frets. In general terms there should be a very small gap, around half a mm. If it's much more than that there is too much relief (tighten the truss rod), if the strings touch the frets there is too little relief (loosen the truss rod). You should get the relief right before adjusting the saddles. Get the correct tool to adjust the truss rod. With a little pressure the truss rod should turn. If it doesn't, do NOT force it, take it to your local techie. Do not do more than a quarter turn at a time, preferably only an eighth. Let it settle for a minute or two, do the 1st/12th fret thing and see if your E string has a tiny gap. Repeat if necessary. Then adjust the saddles until you get a lower action without too much rattle. There is a great free guide here .. you have to sign up to the Jerzy Drozd newsletter but that's no sweat, the guide is superb. Good luck, any questions, Basschat is here. EDIT: Shims are a last resort after you've tried everything else.[/quote] The point the previous poster was making is that if you want a lower action then you shouldn't just be looking to change the relief to do it, but you are correct in saying that you should have the relief set correctly before making other adjustments, then if the neck moves due to changes in humidity it's a simple job to then adjust the truss rod to keep the set up as you prefer it. If the relief is correct and the saddles at the limit of their adjustment then a shim (assuming a bolt-on neck) will help - usually you don't need much to change it quite dramatically, and sometimes it might not be possible if shimming raises a part of the neck that then causes choking when playing the top frets.

[quote name='OutToPlayJazz' post='811891' date='Apr 19 2010, 09:10 PM']As far as I know, there's no passive bypass on a Stingray, so in answer to your question, it won't be so much quiet as utterly silent. [/quote] I could be wrong, but I have a feeling a Stingray can operate without a battery even connected - so it might be that.

[quote name='Paul_C' post='810641' date='Apr 18 2010, 07:52 PM']Have you checked [url="http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/"]http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/[/url] for stock ? not far from us.[/quote] the bass player in the band I drum for has the 1x12 version, which is fine (i.e. very loud from where I sit) for small venues and would no doubt be D.I.'d for a larger one and so working as a perfectly useable monitor.

[quote name='fretmeister' post='810503' date='Apr 18 2010, 05:45 PM']Anyone tried these two back to back? When my Ampeg / TecAmp rig goes I'm pretty sure I'll be getting one of these. Of course no bugger has them both in stock to try them out. Anyone used them both? Which did you prefer and why please? ta[/quote] Have you checked [url="http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/"]http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/[/url] for stock ? not far from us.

do what you like - if you think it's time for a break then it probably is.

I modded a friend's bass a few years ago [url="http://www.arrowheadguitars.co.uk/bass%20gallery.html"]http://www.arrowheadguitars.co.uk/bass%20gallery.html[/url]

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='791813' date='Mar 31 2010, 12:58 PM']Due to popular opinion ive now corrected my post. I still dont know what to do with my 6th finger though. it gets in the way of the others.[/quote] hold it out of the way with your spare thumb

[quote name='Grand Wazoo' post='790340' date='Mar 30 2010, 10:22 AM']Hi does anyone know with certainty what strings make and model that JJ used? Thanks (on his P bass not on his upright by the way)[/quote] google says "James Jamerson used La Bella heavy-gauge (.052-.110) flatwound strings that he never changed."

my finest moment was a 7 piece drum kit in cases and two passengers in a Metro, even though we did collide with a Saab at one point in the journey