LeftyJ

I was going to post something, but just cleared my message because A: my only fretless basses either have rosewood boards or are just a maple 2x4 with strings, and; B: my only basses with ebonol fingerboards are my Status Graphite basses with carbon graphite monocoque necks, and their response is incomparable to any of my wooden necks. As you were. Nothing to see here

I love listening to Igorrr, and many of their lyrics are in the fictional language developed by the band ÖXXÖ XÖÖX (who sure love their Umlauts!). Even with the translation, it's hard to comprehend: https://www.letssingit.com/igorrr-lyrics-downgrade-desert-mbwmn3x

Oh god, they were the last band I expected to go woke. I liked them better before they went so political and were still raging against vending machines and leaf blowers

Jealous! I've always wanted a Fragile.

I don't live in the UK, but for my most recent shipping of a bass (a neck-through Ibanez MC924 with original case) I used UPS and they were great - mostly... Everything was easily arranged on the UPS website once I knew the final dimensions of the package. I had arranged pickup at my work address, but they didn't show up. But they also have many drop-off points in my area so I went with that. Many of these are small, independent shops who wouldn't be happy if you dropped off a huge box so I had to choose carefully. Just don't do what I did and don't use laminated wood or fibreboard panels to strengthen the package. I laminated the hardcase (of thin, fragile wood) between two boards of MDF, and US Customs weren't too thrilled because apparently there's formaldehyde in wood glue and the MDF had to meet certain US standards... I had to trace and contact the manufacturer for the specifications of the boards and the type of glue used, and meanwhile the package had to stay in a UPS warehouse until it passed Customs. And apparently a UPS warehouse is some sort of luxury parcel hotel, because for each night (over 3) spent at their fine etablissement they charged a considerable amount. No fun was had!

They do a lefty of the guitar version too (the Rapier 33, with three humbuckers). Looks really cool, and has some interesting sounds on tap. If there's going to be a lefty bass version, I may need to check it out

Sire U5 shortscale on Gumtree

I saw a clinic by Paul Reed Smith once, who told the audience he'd had the privilege once to hold TWO Stradivari violins at the same time. Interestingly, from the grain pattern and flame he was able to tell they were both made from the same tree

I voted no. Not because I'm opposed to the idea of a of buying a replacement neck for a bass or for a new build, but I would never buy one separately. I wouldn't buy one as an upgrade of an existing instrument - only if my old neck was damaged or broken beyond repair and if the original manufacturer wouldn't supply me a new one, be it under warranty or at a charge. And I'm also no home luthier, building bitsa's in my attic - nor would I be looking for such an expensive neck if I was, because 90% of the fun in building bitsa's is to make something nice and decent out of affordable or even cheap parts. I'd either buy from a supplier that can get me the whole package (including a body) or use parts of an existing bass to start from. To me, the neck would be the defining feature both in determining the basis to start from and the end result.

There was a thread about straplocks recently and I looked this up, because I was wondering about compatibility. Schaller says this on their website:

That Squier Paranormal Rascal Bass with two chunky Wide Range humbuckers

Yep. They were discontinued twice now. Production of the Japanese and Korean models ran from 1994-1999. They came back by popular demand in 2007 after a certain mr. Paul Gray of Slipknot fame could be seen regularly gigging a left-handed amber ATK300. He was the one reason the ATK series was brought back, and he was subsequently honoured with his own signature model, the Ibanez PGB-1. These Indonesian models ran from 2007-2018. During this time, Ibanez also made some smaller-bodied versions (like the ATK200) to bring the weight down. These look very similar, but the body is slightly narrower. These also had a slightly different bridge which fits humbuckers with regular MM dimensions, which made them easier to modify.

I've had a few lefty ATK's, all made in Japan. They were originally made in Korea (from 1994-1995), but when they became succesful production moved to Japan for just a few short years (1996-1998) before moving back to Korea - with the exception of a Prestige model that was short-lived, the ATK1300/1305. And the weirdest oddity of all, the USA-made USATK models - made for Ibanez by Bunker Guitars, with their unique, patented Tension-free Neck, which is basically just a wooden shell around an adjustable steel rod, and a separate headstock bolted to the end. The later ATK series were Indonesian, and are easily recognizable for their lack of a truss rod cover on the headstock, but rather a spokewheel truss rod adjuster at the neck heel. I've owned two ATK300's and one very rare ATK305 (only a scant few lefties ever made). I loved them, but I'm not really into the MM type tone anymore and sold all my basses with MM-style pickups. I kinda wish I had kept the fourstring in this picture, it was a beast and somehow sounded warmer and punchier than the other two ATK's I owned.

I like the looks, but not those MM-style pickups in such a classically styled bass. I'd like it a lot better with some pickups that are either more traditional or more quirky (or both). I like her Reverend Wattplower better!

I love that Aquamarine finish

Nope, that's the grub screw to lock the saddle in place. There's no typical intonation screw as you'd find on a Fender-style bridge that moves the saddle as you turn. Here's a better pic (when you click it it opens in 1600x1600):

I don't think these have intonation screws? Dingwall refers to these as their V3 Bridge. This is one of their newer bridges that I've so far only seen on the D-Rock 5 and this John Taylor signature, and I think similar to Hipshot style A and ABM Müller bridges, the saddles are locked in place with a little Allen grub screw. By releasing the grub screw, the saddle moves freely. You then lock it back into place when it's set to your liking.

I own an Atelier Z Baby Z-4J, a shortscale 4-string with the basic shape of a Fender Mustang but with modern features - JJ pickups, active 2-band boost-only pre, titanium reinforcement rods (KTS Support) in the neck, quality hardware (Gotoh GB1 tuners and custom Hipshot B-style bridge with 16.5 mm spacing) and their trademark natural finish with plexi pickguard. It's a fantastic beast that plays and sounds fantastic and takes a ridiculously low action, even compared to my longscale basses. It sounds a lot tighter than you'd expect with the 30" scale, it's snappy, punchy, clear and defined. I love it, and there's only one other bass I would trade it for - the same model in reverse PJ! I believe the Baby Z model isn't handmade by Atelier Z themselves though, but rather a limited run built by Fujigen - as are all Atelier Z models with titanium reinforced necks. Atelier Z has two different ranges of Beta instruments: the Beta (high-end, handbuilt in their own workshop) and the Beta DLX (with KTS Support titanium reinforced necks, and quite a bit more affordable). You can tell them apart by looking for the KTS description in the neck specs. I don't know which series the 6/32 belongs to, and can't find it. I did a quick search and don't see this mentioned with the Beta 6/32, so I recon these are actually handbuilt by Atelier Z. Looks like a ton of fun at 32" scale! Edit: needed pics.

Lefthanded Mustang Bass in aged Lake Placid Blue with white competition stripes on a lightweight alder body, with a gloss nitro maple neck, rosewood veneer fingerboard, matching headstock, lollipop tuners, regular Mustang electronics BUT! with a stacked '51 P style pickup under a closed cover as a bridge pickup, so the appearance matches the Mustang splitcoil. Mint green or aged white pickguard, VVT controls. With both pickups essentially being humbuckers, any position of the controls will be humcancelling. Essentially, this but with an added bridge pickup and lollipops:

I have a cheap Crafter D7L, it's a dreadnought with a solid cedar top and laminated mahogany back and sides. It's fine for the money, but nothing special. It looks and sounds good, and I appreciate the very round but not too thick neck shape. I only ever play my Taylor GS Mini and Baby anymore though, so should probably sell it at some point. The GS Mini is a really impressive guitar, much more mature than the 23.5" scale and scaled-down body would suggest.

Of the four I have owned, only this one remains. It's a DC727 7-string guitar with very interesting (stock) active electronics: there's a regular 3-way pickup selector, volume (push-pull for active/passive), passive tone (only works when in passive mode) and a 2-band active EQ with bass and treble boost/cut. The miniswitches are coil splits per pickup and a phase switch. It's still very much in brand new condition. It has a one-piece maple neck-through with ebony fingerboard and tung oil finish. The range of tones from this guitar is immense, and it almost plays itself.

Easiest is probably to get a set of Fender/Schaller compatible strap buttons. These are the latest version: https://schaller.info/en/s-locks/# Edit: Schaller state in this link that the old buttons are compatible with the new locks, but they don't recommend using old locks with the new buttons. So it's best to find a set of the previous model strap buttons, with the separate screw rather than the integrated Allen screw.

Yep! The proper name is Jazz Bass Plus. There was a similar P-bass Plus too:

Can you provide a picture of what the strap buttons on your new bass look like? That said, if you have Schallers now, it would be easiest to get new Schaller S-lock buttons. They're supposedly the same size as the old Schaller straplocks, but with the wood screw integrated (they're milled/lathed from a single piece) and with a hex key slot instead of a cross head. I could see if they're indeed interchangeable when I get home from work. OR you could replace the set as a whole (both the ends that go onto your strap and the strap buttons). The new S-locks are really nice, and a great evolution of the original design. I have both, I recently bought the new model for one of my guitars. It has some major improvements over the old model: the thread which goes through your strap is a lot longer than on the old model, easily accommodating thick straps; the ring and nut holding your strap in place have been replaced with a large thumbwheel with a lock screw which is much easier to fasten and which stays in place very well; the integrated wood screw in the strap button is very well-made and solid.

Whoa, that's some proper porn! Beautiful bass. Perfect couch (and room) to start a Youtube channel. Or a porn site