bloke_zero

If I were in the same boat I'd carefully remove all the electronics by desoldering the output connection and replace with new pickups and wiring harness - that way you could always replace the old set with minimal disruption. Before I did that I'd try some experiments with carefully clamping the headstock etc to try and rule out weird resonance on the E - it'd be gutting to do all that and then find the problem was still there! Nordstrand are good - they tend towards the more modern but I've had good results. Depends what tone you're after!

Some of the settings are disconcerting, especially the special features. I understand there is a cost to running the servers and all the good work that goes in to the site. This has just nudged me into paying my subscription again! But are all those privacy settings really required? It's all well and good to have an assurance that this information isn't being used, but as someone who is very careful with their privacy (out of cussedness as much as anything else) I feel uncomfortable with having my devices profiled etc. (Yes I have denied that permission, run uBlock Origin etc etc.)

Wow - that was a real journey! Came out well in the end! Did the reso-lites solve the neck dive?

Great work! I'm a big fan of the reverse P - I hope it works out well for you!

We all care! It's a situation I can empathise with. I have an enclosure I drilled 1 too many holes in 5 years ago and replaced - I'm still wondering what I can put in there!

Ampeg are pretty good in this regard: https://ampeg.com/products/pedals/ I have the SCR-DI and although it's fussy about input level (there is an internal dip switch for high output inputs 😐 ) it sounds pretty good and has aux in and phones

A big part of the original stingray sound (given the pickup position near the bridge being quite bright) was the preamp. I'm sorry this is in German but it's the clearest explanation I could find (with diagrams!): https://andyszeugs.wordpress.com/musicman-stingray-classic-preamp/ There are several options for preamps.

Not with adjustment per se, but these guys seem to suggests they might make a custom bridge with your string spacing?: https://www.albridgeparts.com/ - I have one and I'm very happy with it, very well made and thought out. Hard to find MM bridges generally! Let us know if you have any joy.

Frustrating getting dust of any kind into the grain! I know what you mean about the barrage of information - sometimes you have to get involved to find out what is actually important the hard way. Worth it though!

Looks from the pictures as though they also make Cort. Tempting!

That may change when it's easier! I have basses where the better access encourages playing higher.

?!?!?!? Banjo you play with a slide with the fingerboard facing up?

I've got some EMG's which, to my ears, did sound much clearer and less fuzzy at 18v like you say. In terms of it not working properly at 9v - I guess part of the equation is battery realestate - it's relatively easy to find room for 1 9V (say in the channel from the pickup in a p-bass) but harder to find room for 2 without getting serious with a router.

Shame about the spacing - this is one of 2 MM style bridges I could find - it took a while to come but it is really well made. Why are there so few options in this space? Does EB prevent their sale?

Thanks! I've done a couple, and my mate has done 3-4. The trick is really slathering it on and leaving it a couple of days - comes out dark and lustrous!

This really helps with that: https://www.montysguitars.com/products/montys-montypresso-relic-wax Leave it to soak in overnight and it really darkens. The longer you leave it the deeper the stain. This is leaving it on overnight. (I have no affiliation with Monty's!)

Check this out though? : https://aionfx.com/app/files/ibom/xenotron.html Interactive BOM checker! I'm tempted now just for that alone! I built a copy of their meatball pedal (not from aion) and it's an amazing creation. Not something I'd use live as it's so sensitive to playing/knob position, but wildly fun in the studio.

Sometimes just giving them a few turns brings them back (like 10/20 turns back and forth). Most pots don't need maintence as such, certainly not after 6 months.

Agreed - those early EMG's have a very distinct and good sound - there is the famous Lee Sklar bass with them assuming they are early: https://scottsbasslessons.com/blog/the-most-recorded-bass-in-music-history-yep-probably-bass-tales-ep-9#!

To be fair - they don't suggest doing this - they suggest buying their box that has the isolation stuff in it. Which seems weird to me. 2 x 3.5mm trs (for in and out - this is a MIDI 'standard') or mini USB with MIDI seems like a more user friendly solution.

Sounds weird. All the midi trs I have require a connector for both in and out as there needs to be a connection for the optocoupler (yeah - I only vaguely know what I'm talking about!). Out of interest I googled "Transmit MIDI on the ring and receive MIDI on the tip of the TRS cable" and got: https://www.midi.org/midi/forum/8439-receiving-midi-on-trs-ring Which I *think* answers your question - you need the box otherwise it might well not work as the external MIDI device needs the additional connection - which in this case is provided by the box.