Bigguy2017

Can't find info on 7 wire.... 6 wire is here So many guitars, so little talent: Resurrecting some Reflex Red pickups (spongeoffun.blogspot.com) Only the Black wire is missing... I'd guess switched ground for the preamp??

Fret the string between second and third frets, then look at the gap between the string and first fret. The gap should be very small. How small? Try with a strip of 80gsm standard photocopier/printer paper - this should be just lightly gripped when the string is fretted as above. To lower the slots you ideally need fret files - otherwise there are ways with emery paper and bits of old string. This is a precise, fiddly job - go too far and the nut need replacing. If you are practical, patient and confident (!) you can learn to do this job - otherwise take it to a good setup person.

So, reading the post on 'lumped strings' got me to thinking... Taking hold of the trusty Mustang and some solder I tried an experiment. First I wound 200mm of 1.5mm solder round the E string near the saddle. This lowered the pitch about a semitone. Tuning to pitch showed the E was louder but the note was varying in pitch oddly. Next I cut back the solder to 100mm and pushed it as near the saddle as possible. This actually plays OK, string tension is a tad higher and again the string is louder... Try this for yourselves, people - what does it do to a low B ? (I don't have a fiver).

Sounds like the nut slots heed to be lowered. Check string height over the first fret.

I'd fill, level and repaint. When stripping painted bodies you never know what you'll get underneath as some companies use the crappier wood under their painted finishes, and you never see until you've started stripping. I suppose, worst case is strip it, find mismatched wood and then have to full refin' anyway. With a cheapy I'd give it a try.

It still doesn't load due to SSL certificate errors.

Now you're just showing off... 👍 Cuts to wide shot of room - all furniture, carpets, curtains and clothing are in Sea Foam Green 😂

Fender Deluxe PJ Special Sea Foam Pearl MN with Black Block Inlays, Hipshot HB7 tuners, DiMarzio Ultra Jazz J pickup, Custom Shop '62 P pickup, D'Addario XL Chromes flats

You live in Hope?

The Lollars are really nice. Various PUP samples here... Norstrand Mustang Finger No EQ in Mustang Bass Pickup Comparison (soundcloud.com)

Ignore...

Also press the ICs into their sockets - they work loose over time. Reseat the valve/s. Tapping with a chopstick is the way to find a hidden dry joint.

If it has FX send/return plug a patch cable and clean the jack sockets. As it's not affected by volume control its in the power amp section (probably). Try the usual - open it up, visual inspection, unplug/replug any connectors, look for anything iffy, swollen caps, and especially dull/dry joints. Have a good sniff - anything smell burnt. Then with the power on tap all areas of the boards and pots with a wooden chop stick and try and localise the fault. Most likely it's a dry solder joint but it could be a cap, transistor or chip... What amp is it?

Yes, generally you'll need a heavier string for shorter scale. I use D'Addario EXL160M (50-105) on my string-through Mustang and find them ideal. I also found the LaBellas too floppy.

Thomann for the HB ones G&W - notched straight edge (guitarsandwoods.com) they're in Portugal but do ship to UK I have the Crimson ones for guitar and bass but they don't appear to have bass ones... maybe give them a call avoid the eBay cheapies - they are not straight!

Yes, sounds like a bad solder joint - either in the pickup (at the thin coil wire connections) or in the control cavity. If you are really careful then unscrew the pickup, lift off the cover and have a good look at the solder joints - look for bad joints or a loose coil wire - the fix could be as easy as reflowing the solder. If it's the coil wire it's a bit of a fiddle - scrape of about 3mm of insulation and re-solder (this needs three hands!). If it's at the pot end it's a lot easier to re-solder. If you don't feel confident then take it to a good (?!) repair place - if available.

One of my favourite live recordings - Joni is really cooking' - the whole band is so together - great energy. Just wish Jaco would turn down a bit - is it just me or (heresy!) does Jaco turn everything into the Jaco P show?

Pah, that's nothing! I lived in an Ampeg 8 x 10 cab for two years before I could afford an 18" bass bin.

Something like this ? Nickel Plated Toggle Switch Guard | Car Builder - Kit & Classic Car Parts Specialist

Those aren't scratches - it looks like severe finish checking - cracks in the finish. The wood has shrunk a little and the finish has split. Options? Do you want it to look like a brand new instrument? If so then strip and refinish. On a vintage 1977 instrument like this I'd embrace the natural relic job... If the finish is lifting and detaching I'd drop fill with CA glue then sand back to flat and polish. Finish checking is cool on a 45 year old bass.

Prepare a cable with a 1/4" mono jack on one end and two croc clips on the other.... connect to amp. Unsolder pickup inputs at pots. Unsolder input to tone pot. Clip onto each pickup and check for signal / volume. Reconnect pickups to pots. Clip onto out lug of each volume pot and check for signal / volume. Reinstall tone pot, clip onto out lug and check it works. Finally clip across output jack and test.... Check earth continuity from output jack to pots and bridge. If AOK close it all up and test agin.

Leave the empty shell of a Neutrik XLR in the adjacent socket?

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The walnut plug says early 70s or modern - later 70s were bullet style. The Jazz Bass font is sans serif which was later 70s. Neck colour looks too new and the Fender decal also looks too new. Tuners look legit. Serial number is USA 77 - 78 or Japan 94 - 95 / 2006 - 2008 Bass could be later MIJ and mistakenly dated to 70s due to serial number ambiguity? Could also be a newer, replacement neck. Is there a neck date stamp? Pot date codes?