BassmanPaul

The 'G' refers to a glass container. The letter following defines the variant. For instance I have, somewhere, a pair of 6L6WGB which is an earlier industrial version and not as capable as the GC. I tried those in a Marshall JTM45 and they worked well. The 5881 and 7027 are similar tubes. When I got to North America I was actually surprised by how many different tubes could be amalgamated under the 6L6 banner. It's why it's important to state the full description for American tubes.

Just being picky but accuracy in this line of business is important: The tube needed is a 6L6GC. The 6L6 is an earlier variant usually metal cased, think WWII, and completely unsuitable for a bass amp.

IMO a scope and a signal generator are vital tools. They are how you can see if your amplifier has any spurious artifacts hiding where you can't see them. I haven't used an AVO since the Sixties but they always give me the warm fuzzies when I think of them. These days Fluke digital meters have replaced them. You seem to be aware of the pitfalls so I'll wish you luck with the build. What are you doing about a chassis? Paul

Just for interest, how many tube amplifiers have you successfully built? Do you have the tools and test equipment necessary to ensure proper operation of the completed build? There is a lot of stuff that you need to be aware of for your safety. I'm not trying to put you off necessarily but these things do run on LETHAL voltages.

You're forgiven then!! LOL Have a wonderful holiday season and a very happy new year! With a bit of luck 2021 will be a better year the world over!!!

Actually it's a different type of amplifier. Often the power supply will be a Switch Mode design to cut down weight.

If your power amp is Class D it's certainly NOT digital. D was just the next letter assigned to a next developed amplifier topology. It's analogue.

When I worship it surely is a little higher than Geddy! LOL

Thank you. I now know who you are talking about.

Come on guy - I've been out of the country since 1973!! LOL

Enjoy your new toys!

I must admit that the Mesa TT800 is an amp I'd like to own. From what I have read it's a nice combination of new and vintage tonalities.

Just for interest who is JJB?

Daisy chaining, amp to speaker 1, speaker 1 to speaker 2 is still a parallel connection. The result is 4Ω.

If you can get by with a comparatively low powered amp an SVT might fit the bill.

As long as you don't get a volume surge above 200 odd watts! You can run a 5W speaker from a 1KW amp as long as you don't drive it past that 5W rating!

You could use the amp section to power a bass cabinet - say a 2x10 of some kind.

Having looked on-line both cabinets are 8Ω therefore 4Ω when run in parallel. the Amp will supply 325W into that impedance. Split equally between the cabinets each one will see 162.5W. Your baby cabinet will be fine!

You need to tell us what impedances are in play here. Amp: 325W into what impedance? Cab 47: What impedance? Cab 27: what impedance?

Thank you for the update. B15s are great amps!

Your amp is a guitar amp and cannot handle bass frequencies. The big 'ole in the back is not a tuned port so it's similar to an open back cabinet - OK for guitar, useless for bass. IOW the wrong tool for the job.

Make sure that the tube amp ALWAYS has a load connected when in operation.

A HPF would give you some room for safety. You certainly can destroy your speakers by overloading them at low frequencies.

That Sir is a very simplistic view of our instrument! My active basses just have a simple pre-amp with treble, middle and bass on board. These allow tone changed from the instrument. My Precision just has a volume and treble cut controls. Just the same as a guitar.

My only comment is that the 4x10HLF is a somewhat dark cabinet. I'd say try it and see if it suits your tonal goals.