~tl

[quote name='Lifer' post='307792' date='Oct 16 2008, 12:29 PM']What would you suggest, just running a 0.047 on both tone pots? This is making me go a bit cross eyed now [/quote] Not according to your diagram, since it's 0.0047µF (4.7nF) capacitor on the bass control. The treble control should be fine with a 0.047µF (47nF) capacitor, since as people have already said, the difference between 47 and 50nF is marginal.

I prefer the sound and feel of nickel wound strings, so tend to use them anyway. Elites don't have any wrapping, are cheap, last well and I've always been happy with them. Worth a shot...

Fender instruments are built in [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corona,_California"]Corona, California[/url]... i.e. nothing to do with Corona beer If you post the serial number, I'm sure someone will be able to work out where it was made though. I also believe Fender use normal wiring on most of their instruments. I would think they would only use cloth covered wire on vintage reissues – though they might not even use it on those. As for your wiring problem. First step would be to take it apart and check for broken connections, it may be something as simple as a broken lead from the jazz pickup.

Is "Do you wish to view images in posts, such as smilies and posted images?" turned on in the "Board Settings" area of your control panel? [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?act=UserCP&CODE=04"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?act=UserCP&CODE=04[/url]

If you're missing the tone control out, I like to add a treble bleed off capacitor/resistor combination. Even when the tone control is turned fully up, some of the treble is bled off through the cap and the full resistance of the tone pot. You can substitute this with a ~250kΩ fixed resistor and the normal sized capacitor (~.05µF) wired in series between the output and ground. Without it, the instrument will be pretty trebly, which may be what you're after. But if you're looking for an "authentic" tone then I'd recommend adding it. If you want more options you could add a switch or a push/pull pot to switch the bleed off or even to change the value of the resistor which will alter the tonal properties. Check out danlea's schematic (in the thread that he linked to a couple of posts up) for a fairly good implementation of this – it doesn't offer full bypass of the treble bleed, but has equivalents of the tone control being fully up, partially up and fully down.

Fender Precision. Original and best

Has anyone tried these cables? [url="http://www.theleadsfactory.co.uk/skiprope.html"]http://www.theleadsfactory.co.uk/skiprope.html[/url] I came across them when looking up information on Neutrik "silent" jacks. They have a braided plastic cover over the lead that looks pretty cool and is supposed to protect the cable. They look nicely made apart from that too. I was considering getting one, since I wanted to try the "silent" jacks anyway, but £28 for a 10ft cable seems a little steep – I could get essentially the same thing (albeit without the braided covering) for £16 from obbm or make it up myself for even less! Has anyone tried them? Is the braided covering really worth it, or is it, as I'd assume, just a bit of a gimmick?

I can't speak for the CIJ Jazzes specifically, but I replaced the scratch-plate on my CIJ Precision without major problems. The only problem I ran into was that the neck pocket was slightly too small on the replacement scratch-plate (which I believe had come of a MIM Fender – I got it on eBay). A few minutes with a file and it fitted perfectly. Oh, and it was a 10-hole scratch-plate rather than a 12-hole one, so I had to drill a new screw hole for a screw that was in a different place. The rest of them lined up perfectly. Basically, what I'm trying to say is that I wouldn't expect the CIJ scratch-plates to be drastically different from the standard Fender ones. Of course YMMV.

As long as they're not too close to the strings, then it shouldn't be a problem them being at an angle.

What type of pickups are they? Have you tried either raising the treble side of the pickup up a little or dropping the bass side using the screws? It's simple, but it is amazing how much difference to the tone a few millimetres worth of height can make...

It might be worth looking into the Japanese Fenders, they have some nice re-issue models – much nicer than the Mexican ones in my experience. They can be a little tricky to get ahold of over here though, which may be an issue if you want to try before you buy. I've had guitars from this importer before: [url="http://mijfenders.com/"]http://mijfenders.com/[/url] Been very happy with his service, and I believe he keeps a fairly extensive stock in the UK. Might be worth a look...

Anodised-gold scratch-plates look great on black instruments: [attachment=15394:0194060764_xl.jpg] To be honest they look great on any instrument – I have one on my sunburst Precision

[url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/"]Allparts[/url] and [url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/"]WD[/url] have centre detent pots but I'm not sure whether they will have 100k ones – probably just 250k/500k. It would be worth an email to see if they could order one. I've found both companies to be helpful with enquiries...

"Lost" as in "Lost off the back of a truck" maybe?

As long as I could justify owning the bass (i.e. I would play it regularly, rather than just have it for the sake of having it) then I would be prepared to pay whatever it costs. A good instrument is worth paying for! Saying that, there aren't many basses above the £1500 mark that tickle my fancy...

Hello, my name is Tom and I'm an addict... I've been a long time lurker here, but thought I should really register and introduce myself! I'm currently living in Glasgow, in my 3rd year of studying for a MEng in Electronics and Music. I'm having a blast, but not really finding enough time for bands. I will need to put a bit more effort into getting something together soon, though I've been saying that ever since I moved here! In that vein, if anyone's looking for a temp/permanent bass player in Glasgow then give me a call! I've been playing bass for about 12 years, though I've been exposed to it for my whole life. I grew up playing my father's '63 Precision through a '70s Hiwatt 100. I couldn't have asked for better equipment to learn on really! My main bass these days is a sunburst, Fender CIJ '62 Precision. I've had it since 2005 and have gradually been upgrading bits on since. Currently it's got a gold-anodised scratch-plate, Badass II, Bartolini pups and Schaller strap-locks on it. Got a set of Schaller machine heads on their way, along with replacement knobs since the originals don't fit the shafts of the CTS pots I put in when I rewired it. I guess that when I've done that the only original bits will be the body and neck... so I guess that's the end of me upgrading it, unless I start re-replacing parts! The neck on this bass is just feels "right" to me. I've played a lot of MIA/MIM Fenders, and haven't found any that feel this good to play, so I guess I won't be replacing it any time soon! A little photo: [attachment=14428:IMG_4234.jpg] Amp wise, I currently only have a small Hartke combo. Since I haven't been gigging, I've not needed anything bigger and this is fine for practice and the odd jam. I've got serious GAS for a Shuttle 6.0, so we'll see whether temptation gets the better of me! Not sure what my neighbours would think though... Anyway, that's enough about me. Nice forum you have here, looking forward to hanging around!