~tl

You're both right for different reasons. By running everything from one socket, you reduce the possibility of different pieces of equipment having different earth potentials. This can arise from badly wired plugs/amps/etc and can lead to you getting a shock if, for example, you touch your guitar strings (which are connected through the amp to one earth potential) and a mic (which is connected through the PA to a different earth potential). The potential difference between the two can lead to a shock. However, your guitarist is also right. Sockets, and more so those 4-way extension leads, are only rated for 13A of current. With a whole band set up plugged into a single socket there's a good chance you'll be exceeding that and may cause the extension lead will over-heat/melt/catch fire/etc. The best bet is to plug everything into their own sockets, but make sure you use RCDs on everything. A wireless system between your guitar and amp also provides effective isolation, so use them if you have them. Also, if possible, use an earth tester to check the sockets before you play. Finally, if you or any of your band mates have been stupid enough to remove the earth wire from their amps (some people do it to reduce hum) give them a smack in the face for being an idiot and reconnect it.

I'm a fan of Elites Players (the nickel ones) personally.

I have one of the Intelli ones (IMT-500). I mainly use it on the guitar, but it's OK on the bass to. It sometimes has a little trouble picking up the E and B strings – but tuning on the 19th fret harmonics seems to work nicely.

Someone's posted about this already tonight: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=30936"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=30936[/url]

That's pretty much why I stopped using Rotosounds. I went over to Elites (the nickel "Players" ones) and have never looked back...

Just met Andrew in Glasgow, had a coffee, and left with a lovely [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=30446"]5-string Precision[/url]. Finalised the deal last night and had the bass in my hands today. Great guy and a pleasure to deal with! Cheers Andrew!

From a quick Google, the Randall RX75R uses a two button foot switch...

I've bought a CIJ bass from Jon at [url="http://mijfenders.com/"]MIJ Fenders[/url] before. It might be worth seeing if he can get what you're after...

A couple more things to consider... First, some amps use momentary foot switches, while others use latching switches. It would be worth checking to see which applies to this amp. Maybe if you post the make/model of amp somebody could confirm what you need. Also, if the stock foot switch performs more than one function you will need to use a stereo jack on the end of the lead. Using a mono one may short the other function on (or off) – so if you have a foot switchable reverb, for example, you won't be able to turn it off (or on) using the front panel button. Finally, Banzai Music sell all sorts of pedal parts – they're based in Europe, but ship to the UK: [url="http://www.banzaieffects.com/"]http://www.banzaieffects.com/[/url]

I use a TU-2 and it has never let me down. Sure it was quite expensive, but I've never regretted paying the premium for it. I also have one of the Intelli clip on ones for the guitar (IMT-500) and it also works quite well on the bass – especially if you tune on the 19th fret harmonics. It's handy because it's so small and I've been using it more and more since it's easier to chuck in a gig bag if I'm just taking my bass. It wasn't cheap either but it's handiness makes up for it. The only other tuner pedal that I've had experience with was a Fender stomp box one that a friend had (PT-100 or something similar to that) and I wasn't too impressed with it. It didn't seem to be as fast or as accurate as the Boss, at least with a bass. Worth paying the £15 extra for the Boss IMHO.

I don't own a car. I do own a bass. Enough said.

I just measured the distance between the top edge of the nut and the middle of the string tree on mine – 68mm. That should give you a rough guide as to how high up the headstock to mount it. Use Thunderhead's method to get the right position between the D and G strings.

I would spend a little extra and get a FireWire interface over a USB 2 one. In my experience they tend to be more stable and less prone to problems, though you do end up paying slightly more for the same number of inputs and outputs.

They look like saddles for an early Fender style bridge – one of the ones that had two strings per saddle: [attachment=15393:0271902503_xl.jpg]

I found this with a quick Google. Can't speak for it's authenticity, but it'd be worth a shot! [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5693751#post5693751"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.p...751#post5693751[/url] [quote]Pinout, schminout Here's what you need: Looking at the back of the amp at the 6-contact DIN connector, we'll call the single contact at the top of the connector "1", and the rest of them "2" through "6", starting from the left and going counterclockwise around the semicircular arrangement of contacts. Mute: Short 1 and 3 Low Boost: Short 1 and 4 Mid Scoop: Short 1 and 5 HF Attack: Short 1 and 6 The front panel buttons need to be "out" (not engaged) in order for the footswitch to do its thing. Asad[/quote]

[quote name='molan' post='308821' date='Oct 17 2008, 06:06 PM']Squier have been making in Korea for a while I think. In fact I have a vague memory that some early Squiers had a Fender logo on the headstock with a smaller Squier one as well (but maybe I'm just imagining that!).[/quote] The very first ones did, yeah. At that point they were made in Japan and hence were pretty nice guitars...

There have been a few Korean Fenders for a while now – I believe the guitars are sold under the "Special Edition" series. Not sure about the basses though...

[quote name='alexclaber' post='308520' date='Oct 17 2008, 12:39 PM']I've always know that I should use RCDs at gigs but have been too lazy to use them. Having read this thread I'll be sure to use one in future. I am left wondering whether an RCD on the bass amp would have prevented this - was the current coming from the bass amp and through the bass or from the PA and through the mic? Probably the latter methinks...[/quote] I would think it would be due to a difference in potential between the "earth" of the bass and the "earth" of the mic. So the current path is something along the lines of PA -> mic -> person -> bass -> amp – or the other way around depending on which is the higher potential, and whether you are talking about regular or electron current . It would be fair to assume that an RCD on [i]either[/i] would trip in that situation. It's probably a good idea to keep an RCD on anything you can control at a gig – you might not be able to get them to put an RCD on the PA, but if you have one on all your equipment then you're reducing the chance of something like that happening.

Looks good, but to finish the job you should add an earth wire (as suggested earlier) and add blobs of solder to connect separate pieces of foil. The glue on the back of the foil acts as a surprisingly effective insulator, so unless you solder across joins you can't guarantee a good electrical connection. The great thing about copper (over aluminium) is that you can solder directly onto it with regular soldering gear. You don't need to worry about covering every seam with solder, as long as there is a blob between each piece the connection should be fine.

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='308011' date='Oct 16 2008, 05:01 PM']What happens if someone does drop it at the end of the night (for example). I turn up next gig, its not working but they can all swear it was at the last gig. Thats when it could get messy.[/quote] Just make sure you check it when it's returned to you, the next day at the latest. I don't see a problem with charging a small amount for the hire. It's your equipment after all, not the band's!

It depends on the power draw of your amp. This is usually written on the back. Divide that by 230 (mains voltage) and you will have the current your amp requires. You should use the nearest size fuse bigger than that. Basically, the common size fuses relate to the following maximum power draws: 13A = 2990W. 5A = 1150W. 3A = 690W. Note that this is the mains power draw of your amp, NOT the output wattage which is typically lower. Just checked and my Hartke practice amp draws 1A (or 230W) while only delivering 35W of output power. Oh, and glad you're all right mate! Will make sure I pack my RCD next time I gig!

[quote name='Lifer' post='307792' date='Oct 16 2008, 12:29 PM']What would you suggest, just running a 0.047 on both tone pots? This is making me go a bit cross eyed now [/quote] Not according to your diagram, since it's 0.0047µF (4.7nF) capacitor on the bass control. The treble control should be fine with a 0.047µF (47nF) capacitor, since as people have already said, the difference between 47 and 50nF is marginal.

I prefer the sound and feel of nickel wound strings, so tend to use them anyway. Elites don't have any wrapping, are cheap, last well and I've always been happy with them. Worth a shot...