Pea Turgh

There’s no reduction in bass, if that’s what you meant. I am expecting that at gig volume the only difference will be a clearer sound. The secondary positive is also the effect on the compression I’m using - imagine previously all that high energy low frequency plosive-type of thump a that would affect the volume at all frequencies that compressor is working on, so whack the stings and you’d have a volume dip in reaction. Now that high energy low frequency is taken out of the equation, the compressor will only react to the frequencies I can actually hear, leading to a smoother overall sound.

Just got my Thumpinator in the post. I don’t have a gig or rehearsal for a while to test properly, but had a play in the house. Banging all the strings lightly with the palm of my hand seems to demonstrate the inaudible effect of the Thumpinator - there is a lot less cone movement with the Thumpinator plugged in. I should think this will have a very positive effect on the compressor now too. Can’t wait for a gig now!

It may not be for you, but £100 would buy a better pair of headphones than it would buy speakers. Lots of people mix on good cans these days. Also takes poor room acoustics out of the equation. If you are set on speakers, I’d get old Gifu speakers and an amp from ebay. It’d p#ss all over any studio monitors in the £100 budget range.

There’s a Barefaced 4x10 in the classifieds. I shudder to think of the damage that could do!

What’s so funny about my ad?

Nice! It’s lovely figuring, but in a subtle way. Still a bit “Van Gogh” grain, like those crazy Alphers!

I’m intrigued. Do you think the 10s are wired out of phase, so when one cone is going out, the other is going in? That way they’d be working in unison pushing at the air around the cab? If they were wired in phase, they’d both push out at the same time, but that couldn’t be as efficient as the cones would be fighting each other air pressure wise inside the cab?

So anybody got any suggestions on a good value uke that won’t break the bank but also won’t get chucked out after getting the basics? Asking for a friend...

I was going to go with black, but now I’m feeling that would be inadequate in comparison with some of the other schemes mentioned above!

I love the way the bridge saddles appear to be floating in this image! Nice contrast. What is the scratch plate made from?

Superb! Very cool looking set up.

Looks great! Lollipop tuners too - excellent! What about a nice gold anodised scratch plate?

He doesn’t look happy. I think I should have it!

Hell of a nut width there

A really cheap option for bass traps is to stack unopened rolls of loft insulation in the corners of your room. You could put it in cardboard boxes to aid stackability.

Now I’m thinking of that exploding seagull trick.

I’m following them on Instagram - lovely craftsmanship! You lucky devil!

I went for a rehearsal in a rented room the other day - used some Peavy thing. There was no clarity whatsoever! I’m taking my Two10 next time. They are vintage sounding, but also very clear. All my band mates commented on the clarity (and depth).

I can’t tell you why (because I don’t really know), but I’d go for the bottom one - MM at the neck, J at the bridge.

I’d agree - leave the white. Don’t mess with the vibe!

I think coffee table legs on this bass might be a mod too far!

Ki0gon loom to finish off? I still can’t believe the difference it made in my Hohner Jack!

Bare face 2x10 - voiced differently to what you tried before (so people say, I’ve only owned a few cabs).

Looks very much like my Japanese Squire from around the same era. What’s the nut width?