Pea Turgh

For £50 I’m very tempted to find out!

What is going on on the back of the headstock? Is that a plate? Paint to cover mistakes?!

Roundover bits are a marvellous thing! Tips for next time I do this; 1. outside on a windy day will blow dust in to your eyes and make you wobble. Avoid if possible. 2. set the damn bit depth properly! Nothing a bit of sanding won’t sort. Next up, filler, sand, sand, sand, stain, protective coat, assemble, make noise! Oh and the port calcs…

Calculated the internal volume as 48.998 litres, taking in to account the battens, but not driver volume. Found a Beyma 12CMV2 file online and loaded in to WinISD. There endeth my knowledge on how to calculate port size! I watched some WinISD videos on YouTube, which only confirmed I am in over my head. Might some kind soul with WinISD skills be able to confirm what port diameter and length would be suitable for my cab, please?

I’m a massive fan of oly white with mint guard, so that’s my vote 👍

Ooh, I wander if tuffcab is any good for cars? Box 2 for the Trace is glued and screwed. Will wait for it to dry then get busy with a flush bit first for nice square corners, then a round over bit for finished shape. If I can get away with no mistakes, I might go for a stained finish to match the Peterson. The new cab is ready for its baffle. Will check exact volume then have another pop at WinISD. Chrome corners and dark brown leather handles on order for both. Will also need to get some better gain & volume knobs!

Progress

Why has no one given the Basschat answer of buy more stuff yet?! Buy separate pedals! I wear glasses all the time. Couldn’t cope with the MS70 screen. It’s not bold enough to be seen from up here (6’3’’).

The amp was pulled from a combo, so there isn’t really a case, as such! The heat sink should sort it. I don’t recall seeing a Trace combo with vent holes, and there’s no fan, so would assume it was designed to be fully enclosed. Equally happy cutting more holes if the experts think it worthwhile!

I also failed to take in to account the rivets holding the transformer to the chassis, so I’ll just have to make a fresh case. No biggy, it’s all learning. Mrs Turgh says I seem happiest when I’m cutting wood! 😂 Tip that I discovered (but is probably widely known): the circular saw wasn’t flowing as I’d like, so I rubbed a candle on the bottom and side of the guide rail - now it glides along! Wood cut for the cab. Will pop to B&Q later for another sheet for the baffle and the 2nd anttempt amp sleeve.

Measure, check, measure, check, measure, check, cut, check, measure. It was all perfect right up until I glued & screwed it together. Suddenly my 1mm extra all around disappeared and it’s 2mm too narrow!!! Amp head no fit. Stuff it. I’ll crack on with the cab for now.

Bought some 12mm ply, some wood glue and a circular saw. Sh*t’s getting real! Found an app called Cut List, for optimising cuts on the ply - should help minimise waste. Trying to see what colours Tuffcab do, but their site doesn’t appear to work very well on a mobile. Will fire up the laptop to browse later on. Half tempted to do the same domestic emulsion + protection coat like I used for the “BC house jam micro cab”.

I love this build!

I’m not aware of the maker or the model, but I’m guessing the design brief was “can you make a bass out of my nan’s side table and lamp?”.

Is that Daphne blue, or some sort of metallic? Slightly muted guard looks really nice. Darkening up that fretboard might also lovelify it further, too.

Ooh, should be able to get the Peterson cab to 41 litres with woodwork. Should help, I guess. Will make sure by checking it out on WinISD before getting the tools out!

It was a 12CVM2 that I bought from you, so should be able to source a 2nd one as they appear to be current. 👍

Well heck, this is taking a while to sort! I’m going to combine a couple of projects here. I need to make a sleeve for a Trace Elliot head, and I want another cab to pair with the Trace or the Peterson. The Peterson amp has a fault, so will need to get that sorted. Whilst it’s not operational, I might as well do the proper woodworking on the cab to optimize it. Order of business; 1. Design the 2nd cab so it matches the Peterson dimensions (at least just the width so it sits nicely). 2. Go get some ply cut up 3. Build the Trace amp sleeve 4. Build the new extension cab using the Beyma from the Peterson. Working amp & cab 5. Get the Peterson amp head fixed 6. Put the Peterson shell under the knife to optimise the tuning. 7. Acquire a 2nd Beyma (should have bought that 2nd one from you at the time @Chienmortbb!) Will put pen to paper this evening when I’m in the house, also try WinISD to see if I can work out tunings myself. Will then post my crayon drawings here for comedy value/feedback.

I think harsh is just not proper FRFR. These sound just… quality.

It’s kinda Fender’s “thing” since the 50’s.

I was going to joke that it started with tolex peel, but the description confirms that’s exactly how it started! Sanded the front grille on auto-pilot too, ffs! And gone through the laminates in a couple of spots on the carcass. Damn, what a waste.

Cheers for all the thoughts, dudes. I was contemplating using some furniture to chop up to make a bass body. Decided against it in the end, as it was a nice bit of furniture. Maybe I’ll hang out by some skips instead.

How does that type of Fender pickup compare to a Gibson mudbucker? I played a 70’s SG bass in Wye Fret a couple of weeks ago and now I want a mudbucker bass!

They kinda look like they’ve been stored in a damp shed. You’d want to make sure the coils haven perished. Also the cabinets are made from MDF, so that could also be fooked.

Free wood - looks like mahogany to me, but owner says it’s teak. What does the hive mind say?!