lemmywinks

[quote name='velvetkevorkian' post='811261' date='Apr 19 2010, 12:57 PM']Does it need to be a pedal? You can pick up a hand held tuner for £10-15.[/quote] Yeah it's for when we get gigging, he'll need a mute function and something that's easy to see. We've got some normal tuners knocking about around the house but he wants a pedal one after using my Korg

Our old guitarist had a couple of Behringer pedals, the tuner was the first to pack up closely followed by the others! I think he only got one or two gigs out of it and it failed mid-gig, i know some people use Behringer stuff with no problems but they have a shocking reputation for a reason, i'd feel pretty bad if i reccommended it to a mate and it stopped working. For the same price you can get something that looks much better, the two in the links above have metal cases, just wondering what the guts are like. I know Belcat's other pedals are supposed to be decent

One of my housemates is getting back into playing guitar and needs a cheap tuner pedal, he likes my Korg but can't shell out the money for one, he has about £30 tops I've been looking at eBay and there's a couple on there: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rockburn-Retro-style-heavy-duty-Pedal-Tuner-BRAND-NEW_W0QQitemZ270556652169QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Guitar_Accessories?hash=item3efe6ee289"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rockburn-Retro-style...=item3efe6ee289[/url] [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Digital-Chromatic-True-Bypass-Stage-Tuner-Pedal-JPT-10_W0QQitemZ360248196613QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Guitar_Accessories?hash=item53e0773e05"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Digital-Chromatic-Tr...=item53e0773e05[/url] The Rockburn one is made by Belcat who seem to make sturdy pedals, the other one looks decent enough, both have mute and true bypass and are metal rather than plastic. Has anybody got any experience of these? Obviously it's a false economy if they are rubbish but if they work then great. Alternatively anybody got any other suggestions for a cheapy tuner pedal? No Behringer please! Ta Steve

[quote name='budget bassist' post='809266' date='Apr 17 2010, 11:15 AM']Git! [/quote] /\ /\ Wot he said! /\ /\

[quote name='budget bassist' post='809045' date='Apr 16 2010, 11:33 PM']Wasn't there a guy on here who bought a fodera from them for £200 or something insane?[/quote] Yep, it was a friend of OTPJ if i'm not mistaken? Occaisionally there's a decent deal in Crack Converters, i bought my Shine 6er brand new for £120, needed a new battery and a set of decent strings for a bass that sold for about £300. Quite a few folk on here have had great bargains from CC, seems to be mostly cr@p in the blackpool one though

Horrid Hohner P copy in red (eurgh!) with a Gorilla 20w combo. The amp had a "growl" knob and a sticker that said "Hear this Gorilla growl", which i found rather embarrassing I swapped the bass for a PC as i had saved up £600 and bought a Gibson RD Artist, the amp is also long gone, bought a Trace Commando and forgot about it, might still be in my parents' garage

[quote name='tombboy' post='804724' date='Apr 13 2010, 11:49 AM'][url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=83954"]This[/url] in the 'for sale' section will get you a quality first rig and leave you PLENTY of change for another bass!! [/quote] That's a great deal! Head and homemade cab for £130, the other cab should be decent too

I take 2 long leads and 2 short, a spare speakon-speakon cable and a little cheap toolkit. I leave some 9v batteries and an old set of strings in each bass case so i never have to worry about those I used to take a spare bass when i was playing covers but don't any more. Also i DI through my MXR pedal so i never take a spare amp/cab either. Also worth mentioning that in my old covers band we had spare fuses/4 gangs and a toolkit (with soldering iron) in the van

[quote name='ash_sak' post='803307' date='Apr 12 2010, 01:43 AM']waterslide stuff like Airfix n that do you mean?[/quote] Like this one: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Inkjet-water-slide-decal-paper-clear-models-transfers_W0QQitemZ310209504999QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_ToysGames_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN?hash=item4839ed66e7"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Inkjet-water-slide-d...=item4839ed66e7[/url] The one's from the seller mentioned above (i assume it's the same guy i used) are great, but really this is all he's doing. All it costs is paper, ink and a coat or two of lacquer

It's really easy to make your own, buy a sheet of transparent waterslide paper off eBay, get the decals off the net and knock up a sheet in Publisher. They work with any inkjet printer, i did some a while ago

What's the bass response on those little EA cabs btw? I'm assuming it's a Wizzy?

The speakers in the EA cabs will be good quality, sensitive units. Should be no problems, you shouldn't need to push the amp as hard to get the required volume as you would with inferior units No doubt someone more clued up will add something but i tend to think of it this way - quality and efficiency of cab/driver is more important than the numbers on the back!

[quote name='dumelow' post='801144' date='Apr 9 2010, 06:46 PM']Thats got to be the geekiest looking instrument ever played, he aint gona pull some groupies at any kind of gig[/quote] I think that groupies will be a bit thin on the ground at laser harp gigs to begin with...

[quote name='thisnameistaken' post='799666' date='Apr 8 2010, 11:52 AM']My Thumb (stock MEC everything) has a lot of treble content flat. More than my old Stingray ever did. Switching it into passive mode still gives a ton of treble.[/quote] Same with the Corvette Standard (active, ash). I have to back the treble off quite a bit, i just like a little bit of bite. Centred it's quite overbearing My Zoot (Areo's thru Aquilar pre) is the total opposite, no spiky treble at all which i quite like

Does the LG not have a jack socket in the middle of the Speakon? Might widen your options EDIT: Just checked and they are combination sockets so you can use speakon-speakon, speakon-jack or jack-jack. Spoilt for choice!

In that case look for a compact 2x10 or 2x12 that runs at 4ohms with decent sensitive speakers. The Schroeder mentioned would be ideal, any 1212 will do the job. I run a Schroeder 1212r and it's extremely loud with a LMII, the 1212 cabs are usually around £350 used

[quote name='dirtylittleherbert' post='799854' date='Apr 8 2010, 02:52 PM']Hm I thought the LG 1000 was non bridgeable if thats a word. I am prepared to be corrected however.[/quote] You're right, it has two seperate outputs each giving 500w @ 4ohms

[quote name='Conan' post='799841' date='Apr 8 2010, 02:38 PM']Remember though that you will only get the max power if the total impedance of the cab/cabs is 4 ohms! Two 8 ohm cabs will give the desired result, as will one 4 ohm cab. If you run it through one 8 ohm cab you will "only" get (at a guess) around 600 watts. Still a [i][b]LOT[/b][/i] of power for a regular band setting, but again you will only get this amount of power if the amp runs flat out.[/quote] It's much trickier with the mini Ashdown gear to get the max wattage out of the amp, you need 2 x 4ohm cabs or one cab with the speakers wired to 2 x 4ohm outputs. Basically if you want a single cab solution to use both outputs the only choice is the Superfly cab Ashdown did a while ago, or mod an existing cab. Typically with one standard cab the OP is looking at using only half of his amp at 4ohms or 8ohms, which is 500w or 370w (IIRC). It's one drawback of buying a compact Ashdown head, by the time you've bought appropriate cabs the rig isn't compact anymore!

Not really, the LG amps are quiet for their specified wattage and with 2 cabs you'd get volume without cranking the head, certainly more than one equivalent 600w cab @ 4ohms. More headroom too Wattage ratings have little bearing on exactly how much a cab can handle and how loud it can go. I guess the only way to evaluate them is to try em, they seem to have a good rep as gigging cabs I have the 500w Superfly (same power section as the LG500 i think), it's nowhere near as loud as my 500w LMII.

These are going cheap: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=83334"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=83334[/url] Both 4ohm so would be great for the Ashdown you have, only 300w each but that shouldn't be a problem, you'll still be able to get enough volume i think

That looks ace! Don't usually like that sort of thing but i'm impressed You should really get a black bridge and tuners on that bass though, the chrome bridge spoils the stealth!

Some have been going for well over a grand recently so financially it'd be a good deal. I got much less (under £500) for mine a few years ago though. It's not a bass for everyone, they weigh a ton and the necks are clumsy compared to a Fender IMO. The electrics can be finnicky, even the switches are quirky - they physically push a metal plate onto different contacts! I had to do some work on mine to get it giggable Despite the huge circuit board and on-board effects there's not too many usable tones, they do an excellent Ric impression though and are great for clanky Entwhitsltle lines. Don't expect a modern active sound and go easy on the bass and treble controls, they can be very harsh. I got rid of mine because my Warwick was a much better bass for me, the RD looked great but the Warwick owned it in every department The sunburst and black ones are more sought after than the maple

[quote name='discreet' post='797703' date='Apr 6 2010, 04:12 PM']This! Like hearing your voice on tape for the first time... it's not the same.[/quote] Yep, that's it! I did a gig with my old Hartke rig ages ago and couldn't get a sound i liked on stage, did the gig regardless and got compliments off 2 good bass players in the audience. Apparently it sounded huge 20ft away yet was muffled on stage, there's me trying about 500 eq settings and looking like a fussy idiot!