Musicman20

[quote name='Floyd Pepper' post='889410' date='Jul 8 2010, 12:15 PM']Have you checked with Mark at Bass Direct ? He had a few hanging up last time I was in there. Jim[/quote] Thanks Jim, just checked, out of stock on his site. Mono themselves said they are struggling to keep up as they are very popular! I might just have to sit tight.

Im not sure who has them in stock at the moment. I just want the Small Black Mono GS1. Its been on order for a while but still out of stock. Im allowed to cancel if somewhere else has it. Price ive been quoted is £29.95....including delivery. If somewhere has one in let me know! I dont want to pay anymore than that though. Thanks!

Sadowsky....safer purchase.

I love the simplicity of choice. I wasn't born until 81 but you guys seems to have had a blast back then. Despite the fact we are lucky to have sooo many options now in bass, it sometimes seems best to go back to basics; p/j/rick/ray plus amp. No faffing.

[quote name='walbassist' post='888924' date='Jul 7 2010, 08:52 PM']Yes, I spotted that, but more sites (including Ashdown) say 400 watts RMS!!!![/quote] Me thinks the 200W is for the 1x12 version?

[quote name='ThomBassmonkey' post='888892' date='Jul 7 2010, 08:26 PM']I'm interested in all this too, I'm after a jazz (been saying it a while now and had a few offers, still waiting for stuff to shift before I can afford it now) and it's mind boggling the amount of jazzes available from Fender alone. Now they've got the "MIM, assembled in the US" style basses and the "MIM with a few US parts" style basses, it's even more confusing. I still wonder if you had one of each price range bass (e.g. Squier CVJ, MIM Standard, US Standard) and stripped out all the electrics and hardware, then put on identical parts, how much the difference really would be. I expect certain things like finish and fret finish would still be slightly better on the more expensive models, but even with a fret dress the Squier would be a fraction of the price of the US.[/quote] Its is confusing! Personally, I still think IF you can pick up a new 2008 onwards American Standard for under £900, (which you can) you are getting a good deal. There are still SOME QC issues on a few to watch out for, but thats something Ive seen with nearly every bass manufacturer if im honest, bar the real high end gear. If you get a good one, which it is more than likely nowadays, you will be happy. Ive rattled on about the new American Standards a lot, but they seriously are a step up in quality and the upgrades/case are excellent. No need to mod in my opinion....unless you want a different pickup 'sound'. I still smile when I use mine.

[quote name='Lfalex v1.1' post='888896' date='Jul 7 2010, 08:28 PM']You're not as far out as you think, there! I actually DO think that there's a difference between thick/thin/no/nitro/poly and even satin/gloss finishes with regard to tone. My satin finished Zoot is a superb example in this respect. My unfinished/natural Zebrano Warwick also. I also think that the fact that my MIA Jazz has a decent, 2 piece ash body with a (thinner) trans finish contributes to it being as good as it is. I've played Highway 1 Jazzes that I thought were very good for the price, and attributed [i]part[/i] of that to the nitro finish.[/quote] Good info, thanks The new 08 onwards Fenders have a slightly thinner coating with Fender's blurb 'allowing the body to breathe' more. I must admit, there does seem to be a difference. They sound exactly how I wanted them to. Its a shame the Highway 1s dont get more coverage....seem like a bargain.

[url="http://www.dv247.com/guitars/ashdown-lb-212-bass-amp-cabinet--73744"]http://www.dv247.com/guitars/ashdown-lb-21...-cabinet--73744[/url] £382! Downside....200W Handling Designed more for the low wattage LB Amp.

Where do I pay?

Wow..thats cheap!

Strangely, TC have no reports of problems with mixing drivers. Not only that, most of their Artists use the RS210+212. I asked Uffe himself, the chap who was behind the whole RH450 idea, and he said they designed them so they could be mixed. I dont care about mixing anyway, I use a 4x10 with a 1x15 purely because it sounds amazing.

[quote name='bumnote' post='888823' date='Jul 7 2010, 06:59 PM']There are a couple of sites with quite extensive information on Fender paints. They claim that from 63 onwards nearly all fenders were primed with a polyester finish called fullerplast. I lifted these comments from one of the sites Quote Fact: The two-part catalyzed coating named "Fullerplast" (Fuller for Fuller O'Brien, the products creator, and plast for the obvious PLASTIC"), solved all of Fenders finishing problems; encasing the deep wood pores in a self-hardening plastic that wrapped the body in a rock-hard solid coffin. In some cases we have found it to be as thick as a.060 string. Yes, all of the wood moisture and characteristics are sealed in a virtual time-capsule, only to be vented from the body through screw holes and paint fractures. Share this info and be the hit of your next guitar gathering! Fact: Fender rarely mentions Fullerplast, or the way it prepares its bodies before applying Lacquer. If they mention it at all So, when someone tells you that a Fender "nitro-cellulose" or "nitro" finished guitar will sound better, have more warmth, or will dry out... they really don't have the full story. End quote It is also claimed that from the 60s onwards acrylic paints became more popular, and Fender used paints from different suppliers, some were nitrocellulose, some were acrylic. I have no idea how true these statements are.[/quote] Interesting!

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='888226' date='Jul 7 2010, 11:28 AM']I still think the HW-ones are better value if you dont want MIM. And the pups are (i think) USA vintage. Heres a thought Gareth. If you do like the RW look send me one of your new SR4s when you get them and ill customize it for you and give it that RW look lol.[/quote] I didnt realise how much cheaper the HW's are! Why dont people see the HW's as a good instrument? I dont understand... [quote name='artisan' post='888244' date='Jul 7 2010, 11:49 AM']i strongly disagree with with this,having owned a 60's classic & a RW,they may be made out of some of the same parts but it's how they are put together that makes the difference. the 60's classic just feels,plays & sounds like any modern poly finished jazz bass whereas the RW feels,plays & sounds like an old vintage well played jazz bass--THEY ARE WORLDS APPART .[/quote] Dont get me wrong, the Road Worn Jazz I played did have a nice tone and the neck was great (although I think there was an issue with the neck being very heavy and the body being pretty damn light so it felt odd). I asked Fender UK and USA what was 'in' the RW series to make them get the rave reviews. They said basically the only difference is the fact the nitro does attribute to a slightly different tone (although the Highway Ones are nitro) but the main reason they are the same price as USA standards is the fact that some players prefer the relic-look, and it takes them quite a while to get it right, hence higher costs. I asked about Pups, and they said there has been confusion over this. They are standard Mex pups. Nothing wrong with that, but if im honest my American Standard sounds fantastic and was cheaper than some places are charging for a RW, and it comes with the new upgrades/a very very nice hardcase. I dont want to see like im attacking the RWs one bit. They are great, and I like the whole relic thing, but I expected a US pup at least. The one thing I noticed is that the output of the pups were a little low, again this is maybe more in line with a 60s bass although they are just 60s Classic pups with a relic on the surface. The Lakland JO I tried next to it sounded pretty huge compared to it. I still want one, but I think its pointless for me to get one when Ive got the American Standard. Im going to look into other options for now.

Dont worry, the RS210 and RS212 TOGETHER will absolutely bury the 4x10 youve got. The RS cabinets are very loud IMO. I play in a LOUD melodic skate ounk band and we have no worries practicing with ONE RS210. The RS210 is that little bit easier to move which is great.

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='888073' date='Jul 7 2010, 08:18 AM']How light are we talking for the bass that you tried out?[/quote] I guess it was under the 9lbs mark...gut feeling around 8. What I didn't understand is that the neck, when I was sat testing, seemed heavier. I couldn't test with a strap so no idea if there was any dive, but I've never encountered that before.

[quote name='LawrenceH' post='887870' date='Jul 6 2010, 10:34 PM']This has been puzzling me. Why don't people rave about the Classic 60s then? I find it hard to believe the finish makes such a massive difference. Do you think they are picking the better tonewoods for the Classic 60s, or better QC, or are the Classic 60s seriously underrated?[/quote] Exactly my thoughts....I've never played a Classic 60s but Fender confirmed it's exactly the same bar the, IMO, great colours and finish. It's a lot to pay though. My girlfriend thinks I'm better off with my American Standards.

It would probably work but you'd be best matching with another TC cabinet if I'm honest. Another RS212 would be thunderous, or an RS210 for a sweeter puncture high end.

I'm going to shelve the idea for a while. The RW is a nice bass, but I've confirmed with Fender UK and USA that it's exactly the same as the MIM 60s bass, except the appearance. The extra cash is for the relic/paint. All parts are Mexican including the pickups. That's not knocking em, but I'm going to think about it a little more.

Awesome bass player. Definitely a massive influence on recent techniques/styles ive been learning. Great old school tone.

[quote name='tredders' post='887222' date='Jul 6 2010, 12:59 PM']I love the BG! Great neck, well put together and well setup straight out of the box (although I have to say that it seems as though there are a number of people on here unhappy with the quality of their Laklands). Mine has the Hanson pup in it, and sounds and feels just like a great Precision. Sure, it's not as "nice" as one of the two "real" vintage P's, but equally it was a fraction of their cost! With the exception of the 2 Fenders in the pics, it's the best P bass I've owned - better than a '77 I owned years ago, & better than a '98 US P I sold on here last year. I've not played one of the new 2010 Fender P's, but have only read great things about them, but I've owned and played some right dogs in my time. The BG just seems comfortable, familiar and consistent (although other peoples experiences differ).[/quote] I personally love the whole look of Laklands, I just think I was very unlucky to get ex demo dogs when I tried to buy one. Saying that, Ive tried 1 or 2 modern Fenders that werent that nice. The other day I tested a RWorn Jazz and a Lakland Skyline JO4 and I cant decide which to get...both were great.

Cool! How does the Lakland compare to the Fenders youve owned/played?

[quote name='OutToPlayJazz' post='886743' date='Jul 5 2010, 10:16 PM']The same as Tom (EssexBassCat) mentioned, the only thing I couldn't quite get my head around was the damage on the RW - Until I came up with the logical premise that it really didn't matter if the bass got chipped or scratched. A minor plus point in it's favour, but as you now know, how they play and sound just blows how they look out of the water, whether you like new and shiny like me, or not. [/quote] Strangely I don't mind it...I think it would be quite liberating not to worry about it dinging! I've always wanted a vintage or custom shop Fender and nearly all of them will have wear. The main thing is playability and tone. I suppose there will always be buyers for it on Basschat should I want to move it on.