SubsonicSimpleton

http://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/drum-risersmall-stage-stage-lighting-for-venuebandartistwedding-singer-ectdaily-rates/1066812773

I've never used light gauge strings on bass, but due to not getting any younger I thought it was worth investigating options which might reduce wear and tear on the finger joints and tendons and lower the risk of playing related injury. I'm ready to abandon my dogma of old dead heavyish strings and medium action in favour of working smarter rather than harder. Looking at some of the string sets available, the gauges are much lower than the 45-125 5 string set currently on my RBX(35" scale), a 30-110 set is at first glance just the gauges I'm using now detuned by a perfect fourth with the extra .030 for the G string. I experimented by detuning my existing EADG strings by a fourth, and the E tuned down to B was subjectively better than the thicker B string, and the amount of fretting hand effort was much less across all strings, but the ADG strings did feel too floppy and sounded muddier when down tuned, so plus for comfort and minus for tone. Do light gauge strings use a different contruction (different diameter core & wraps) to avoid getting too slack and flubby at the lower pitches, and is durability and string life affected? Opinions/recomendations etc welcomed

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1401747331' post='2466567'] Thanks. How do I work out the thread diameter? [/quote] When you go to the engineers merchants, a knowledgeable person with a set of thread gauges and a micrometer will work out exactly what you need, and if you can't buy it there and then for a few pence, you will know exactly what you need to order online.

If there was no financial reward, I would be tempted to take the mickey and specify something as ridiculous as the Nigel Tufnel musicman signature model. picutured at the top of this web page for those who haven't seen it before [url="http://www.celebrityrockstarguitars.com/rock/tufnel.htm"]http://www.celebrity...rock/tufnel.htm[/url] better pic http://www.gilaguitars.com/guitargallery/New%20Updates%20I%20Love%20Doing%20Websites/MrHP2/3.jpg

Now you need to add either a smokemachine or laser projector to the port.

[quote name='flyfisher' timestamp='1401660794' post='2465702'] If I was going to go to the trouble of making some nice bespoke cabinets then I'd look for suitable design for the chosen driver and start from scratch, not base it on a sawn-0ff 210 cab. [/quote] If you are thinking of buying new drivers then this really hits the nail on the head. There are plenty of designs for self build, these are a good start http://billfitzmaurice.com/ http://greenboy.us/fEARful/index.html

Damn this was tough, very high standard making the final decision very difficult, everyone who submitted an entry this time really deserves recognition for their efforts regardless of the winner as far as I am concerned. Well done.

I always start with getting the neck relief sorted then adjust the height/intonation at the bridge. Just remember to slacken the strings when you tweak the trussrod if you want to avoid risking damage to the threads.

Trace Elliot GP7 SM300 amp head Seen a few of these come up for sale at very affordable prices both here on basschat and on gumtree/fleabay, but not really been able to find out much info about them with regard to when they were produced, how reliable they are, quality of the DI out, build quality etc. New vogue is very much for lightweight equipment, which is depressing prices heavily on older kit - my main question is if I disregarded weight and fashion issues how good quality is this particular series of trace amp heads? Any info opinions from basschatters who have owned/gigged one of these long term much appreciated, especially if you have paired one with more modern design cabs(barefaced/bergantino/schroeder etc)

No idea about the period specific details, but the condition of the neck and tuners is jarringly off from the condition of the body and hardware which looks way too new and shiny, and no pics of the relevant date stamps from the neck/pocket/pots.

Thanks for the heads up, been enjoying this band on soundcloud for the past couple of hours.

Normally split P type pickups are humcancelling as the two halves of the pickup function like a humbucker with respect to interference, and J type are a plain single coil and susceptible to hum. Changing the orientation of the bass to the source of interference can change how severe the interference is, so I would expect the issue to be in the environment, and not the instrument.

Alesis don't mention in their blurb whether the dock will charge the ipad whilst in use, but it does look like a nice bit of kit - on tayste's blog he was talking about using multiple outs for recording, and the iodock spec doesn't indicate whether the headphone outs can be assigned different signals to the main line outs, but there are plenty of class compliant devices around the same price point that support 2in with preamps and 4 independant line outs, plus midi.

Given the high premium on vintage instruments, I think the first thing you always need to ask is whether a "modification" has been carried out to obfuscate the true date of manufacture or origin of the part in question. Why would a tech route the neck pocket rather than using a shim? This mod has removed original date stamps from the neck pocket(assuming the body matches the neck and was actually made by fender), so I would steer well clear.

I've never felt tempted to try to tart up roadwear on my long term instruments - for me each ding tells a story and reminds me of experiences on the journey I had while playing that instrument and what was going on in my life at the time. However, I also really love the feeling of taking something old and beat up and restoring it to it's former glory, so regardless of whether you refinish or not I don't think you will be disappointed when you have restored your old friend to full health. Take some time and listen to your heart, only you can know whether a refinish will feel right - you can however sort all the functional aspects first before committing to the refinish route, and playing and hearing your bass again will fuel your gut feeling.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1400240494' post='2452147'] I asked about this originally and got zero replies. Any suggestions as to where I could get some? The current screws are 12mm long. The replacements need to be 15mm. [/quote] Local engineers merchants/bolt & nut suppliers.

Wilkinson BBOT - might need to replace the saddle height adjustment grub screws with slightly longer ones, and may need to adjust the holes in the rear of the bridge that the intonation adjustment screws pass through if they start binding due to the increased angle. Badass 1 that normally requires routing the body to get the adjustment low enough maybe. You could also use a brass spacer plate if there is a specific bridge that you prefer which doesn't have the necessary height, and get it(spacer) plated if cosmetics are important.

I voted mix 3, I felt that the vocals had good clarity on this mix, and that the bottom end was nice and tight. Sounded less modern than the other mixes in a good way IMHO.

I was doing some googling to see if there was a solution to the issue of charging the ipad whilst using it, and I found a pass through adapter that has a micro usb port to allow charging, it appears to be primarily designed to solve the issues that aftermarket iphone/ipad cases can cause with accessories and docking stations, but maybe worthy of further research. http://www.amazon.co.uk/CableJive-dockStubz-Converter-Through-Adapter/dp/B003TJR2HS Just to be clear, I am not recommending this and haven't bought or tested it, just thought it might be relevant to the thread.

Why not buy the plans from Bill for the simplex cab to match your drivers, and make one - no need to risk ruining your existing cabs, and you will be able to A/B properly as you have two drivers (and can perform testing before going to the time and expense of exterior finish & hardware on the new cab). As you already have the most expensive part of the equation(the drivers) in your possession, you don't have a lot to lose.

50w is fine for home practice, and maybe some low volume jamming, but bass amplification needs quite a lot of energy to reproduce low frequencies, so you will run out of headroom very quickly regardless of speakers/cab. Really you need to ask yourself whether you need/want more volume, better eq/tone or both, and how important the size and weight of your setup is. I think if this amp isn't working for you there is limited mileage in modding it, but if you are unhappy with it or the sound you are getting from it and you can identify why you are dissatisfied then you might get some decent suggestions.

You could modify your combo to provide an external speaker jack, that either parallels with the built in speaker, or bypasses the internal speaker entirely when you plug in an external cab, both options would involve a minimal amount of surgery. The important thing is knowing the impedance load that the amp is expecting in order to match the external speaker to it. If you specified the make/model of combo, people might be able to be a bit more helpful.

Have you tried turning your volume down to a level that feels good with the drummer playing naturally and relaxed? It might be easier to convince the guitarists that they are too damn loud if they can't hear the rhythm section when thay are playing, but the bass and drums sound great together when the guitars stop. Part of the issue with volume wars, is that guitar cabs can be very directional, and you need to crank the volume way louder than it needs to be in order to hear yourself if you are stood in front of the amp stack - try asking the guitarists to sit on the floor in front of their stacks while playing and see if they are comfortable with the volume level, and maybe also try swapping stage positions with each guitarist in turn, so they can hear the instrument mix from your perspective and you can hear the mix from theirs.

Gotta love Doug's attitude to his own custom spector bass which he has played the cr*p out of http://youtu.be/aPekZmNeuDs?t=18m6s Doug and Vernon have the most insanely complicated signal processing I've ever seen, probably not a good idea to watch this if you have bad FX GAS.

I think it's a typo and he meant £1.75