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  1. Why not just use the existing bass drum and hihat pedals which you know will work, and just assign a snare sound to the hihat pedal - you might want to rotate the snare pad out of the way, but surely using what's there already is the most straightforward solution.
  2. Given that they are listing multiples in stock of various antique brass instruments at similar price to the basses, my guess would be that if you order you will receive a photo or poster of the item you have bought.
  3. This Propellerheads remix is my personal favourite
  4. I hate to be the one to break this to you, but there was a good reason that Rob Halford used to dress like he was going to a gay BDSM dungeon....
  5. Back in the day, it was important to use the same tuner to tune all the instruments - even if you set the reference frequency the same across multiple tuners (same brand/model or not) the circuitry contained multiple discreet analogue components which are all subject to manufacturing tolerances. All those +/- 2/5/10% variations add up, which results in "identical" circuits not behaving in an identical manner, in mass produced items the components are just slapped in to keep price down, in some professional level recording equipment the manufacturer will measure and reject components that fall too far out of spec or place extra time and care matching components when they are to be used for example as a stereo pair.
  6. You can use this type of music stand and cut down the top to a more suitable size https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tiger-Orchestral-Conductors-Adjustable-Music/dp/B002GOHCTA Its a more agricultural approach than the clips, but wont fall to pieces or need replacing with a different model if you change your tablet/case. Worth looking around if you go this route as these type of stands can be picked up for as little at £10 new from some of the big music etailers, and even less used.
  7. Is it worth revising the horn cutout so it can be used in either orientation and allow the cab to double for PA duty?
  8. Do Fractal actually have any dealers where you can walk in and hear a unit in person?
  9. Just a thought, but it might be worth disinfecting the cavivites and neck pocket with tea tree oil to kill any potential mould/spores. Looks like you got a nice result from the application of a bit of elbow grease though.
  10. One important factor here is what is driving the prices up at the moment? I might be wrong about this totally, but for the most part it would seem that the primary market for expensive vintage/collectors instruments is mostly middle aged and older people with money - if you want to offload a bunch of expensive instruments, what happens if all the old farts are needing to sell off their collections to fund living expenses and the younger generation are either too skint, or not that interested (on the basis that music tech has moved on, and their musical heroes don't have the same associations with certain instruments in the same way that someone growing up in the 50/60/70s would have witnessed but been largely unable to afford at the time). If you are a famous old fart with a large instrument collection like Geddy Lee or Joe Bonamassa, then the celebrity association inherently adds value and desirability, but if you are joe public then I'm not so sure.
  11. This type of thing happens here too - people start making instruments at their own pace, then a bit of a buzz develops around the instruments they are producing, followed by a sudden stampede of orders and if the luthier in question has some sort of real life hiccup like a health issue or family problems they can end up spending customers pre-order deposit money to pay their bills and dig themselves into a hole very quickly, unfortunately this often seems to result in a spiral of bad practice. We had this on here a few years ago (cant remember the guys name off the top of my head, but I think it eventually got resolved) and over on the fretboard there is a current on going situation with another builder.
  12. Milling the bodies out of a billet has two big potential pitfalls, weight and coldness(aluminium is a very efficient conductor, so will wick heat away from any body parts in proximity to it). You could get a very accurate idea of how heavy your finished body will be fairly easily; -after removing neck, bridge and pickguard, carefully measure the displacement of the body by dipping it in a suitably large container of water (I'd put the body in a bin bag to keep it out of direct contact with water and hold by the top horn - air will be forced out of the cavities. You can then get the displacement of your hand separately and get an accurate figure) -calculate out the finished weight of the alloy body and weigh the existing body -procure enough lead flashing from your local builders merchant to make up the difference in weight, and gaffa tape it to the back of your existing instrument (assuming it has a poly finish, and taking care to place a protective layer of cloth between the flashing and the instrument to avoid scratching) -see whether you can live with the extra weight, and publish the finished weight on here to get some feedback on whether other musicians could live with it. The good thing about homogenous engineering materials is you can accurately predict how much material you need to remove to hit a target weight, so you might be able to make a swimming pool rout under the pick guard, or change up the design to be routed entirely from the rear and go hog wild with the weight relief given that you will be easily able to make a large one piece flat cover from flat plate and have it anodised to match the rest of the body should you decide that it is necessary.
  13. Is the bass bar still attached? The cracks in the top and the f-hole sinkage look like there might be serious work required, and the crack in the back looks like it runs under where the soundpost would be sitting - I think the important information is really what the inside of the instrument looks like, is it stable, does any repair work look well executed or is it a patchwork of bodge jobs. I would take it to a good DB luthier and get an informed opinion, there is a lot of information that can't be divined by looking at photos. As it stands, does it sound good pizz/arco?
  14. The in house sound engineer at the last gig I played also spent the entire time surfing pornhub on his tablet and doing nothing about the audio, so kudos you are well on the way to being true pros 👍
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