SubsonicSimpleton

I would like to play all Mark King's basses with a 14lb sledgehammer please, and if it is possible to arrange for me to have a go on all of Kenny G's saxes at the same jam session I would be much obliged.

I wonder what they would say if you wanted to carry this on. http://img.groundspeak.com/waymarking/log/6955fba1-5697-4584-a50f-6cec30495050.JPG

Looking back at past experience, I think the live performances I've enjoyed most have been Isaac Guillory(R.I.P) and Jon Gomm, in tiny pub backrooms like the Grove in Leeds - I've seen higher profile artists in bigger venues (sometimes playing badly, sometimes playing terrific) but there are often issues with bad sound, inability to actually see the performers etc, which killed my enthusiasm for "big" gigs a long time ago.

Get your band together first and then pick the material based on what your lineup can do justice to - Hawkwind have had big variations in personel over the years, so go with what fits, you won't be limited by having a restricted back catalogue to pick from thats for sure. Recreating the live chronicles stage show would be pretty epic, but you might struggle to fit any punters in a small venue if you managed to organise a full lineup including the dancers, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLgeWPvctOI

Well this popped straight out of google when I typed in "removing longitudinal twist from guitar neck" http://harmony.demont.net/kamikazie.php?page=033

Large-boned bass sound

If you want to fit a bridge with different hole centers, you can fill the original holes by drilling out the screw threads and then glueing in hardwood dowels before drilling the new holes. Before you do anything, get your neck sorted - you really need to be able to measure how high above the body surface it will sit, and account for the radius of the fingerboard and height of the frets in order to take meaningful measurements. Take a look at your budget, work out how much you want to spend - you can pick up a vintage repro 5 hole bridge from wilkinson that will get the job done for about a tenner on fleabay anytime, from there it gets more expensive and depends very much on your own skills/free time/budget and how picky you want to be about finish - the more you deviate from the original fender recipe the higher the time/money cost is likely to get. Maybe bargain to be had on this (but doubt that the seller will let it go for a quid) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fender-High-Mass-Vintage-HMV-bass-guitar-bridge/121302746433

What about just drilling some 5.5mm holes into a bit of wood/plastic/rubber then plugging the unused connectors into it - saves cleaning the sticky adhesive that insulating tape leaves behind at a later date, and much faster/cheaper than mail ordering those caps from the states.

A violin bass from that place in london with the massive stock of old macaferri(probably bad spelling) parts.

Maybe it is worth noting that even with regular daily practice, improvement doesn't happen in a linear fashion; You start to work on something new that you suck at, initial improvement is quite noticeable and you feel as though you are making progress. After working on that for a while, your execution will still be improving, but so will your ability to spot imperfections - this can feel like hitting a brick wall and as though you are making little/no progress or going backwards. Rather than dispairing, or boring yourself to the point that your brain switches off, the best solution IMHO is to change up what you are doing and work on something else for a while. And remember to have fun as well, if you can't arrange a jam then play along with some of your favourite bands on the stereo.

Take a road trip to bassdirect in warwick and try some stuff out, they have a really good selection of gear. You could even take your bassman amp head for proper A/B comparison.

Not original fitment, but if can measure up the duff socket this is worth a look - neurik are real easy to buy, just google the part number and retailers will pop up - maplin is often a good bet as you can eyeball the product and compare directly to the old one. [url="http://www.neutrik.com/en/xlr/xlr-chassis-connectors/d-series/"]http://www.neutrik.c...ctors/d-series/[/url] maybe consider a better quality replacement, neutrik have proper technical drawings of all their connectors, so you can check that it would fit first I would guess that this might do the job (male xlr vertical pcb mount) worth noting they supply muliple versions with different pin coatings [url="http://www.neutrik.com/en/xlr/d-series/nc3md-v-b"]http://www.neutrik.c...eries/nc3md-v-b[/url] technical drawings appear on the downloads section, right hand side of the page. edit: just noticed the threads on your pics this one has threaded mounting holes http://www.neutrik.com/en/xlr/d-series/nc3mdm3-v

You could also consider replicating the rod, but changing the the anchor for something with a bit more thread available like a barrel nut and peening the rod properly, or welding the existing rod into the old nut(or a copy) - just try to avoid being impatient or impulsive, and don't go buying a new trussrod before you have the fingerboard off and can really see what you are dealing with. This trussrod looks like the nut has been welded, you can see the temper colours making a concentric halo around the weld http://www.tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/i/single-truss-rods_1.jpg This solution is far stronger than cut threads.

It isn't really possible to see clearly from the photo, but I will try to explain, Take a look at the end surface of the trussrod, and compare what you are seeing to the images http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:DuctileFailure.jpg http://www.met-tech.com/images/fractured-input-shaft-6.jpg If the trussrod snapped, the end surface of the rod that was at the nut end will have the same rough crystalline texture that you see in the images.

Can you take a good close-up of the end of the trussrod from the nut end? It may give some extra info about what has happened

You might need to try a stronger magnet. I remembered stumbling across this article a while back, and a quick session with google found it. http://grahamparkerluthier.com/2011/11/18/fender-bass-repair-1969-fender-precision-bass-truss-rod-repair/ Looking at your pics I would guess that the neck construction is very similar, no skunk stripe means the truss rod would have to have been installed directly under the fingerboard. If the trussrod will slide out freely, then you can check the fractured end - the most likely place for a failure to occur is where a thread had been cut into the trussrod (to fit a T-nut at the headstock end) which narrows diameter and concentrates stress. If the rod was braised or soldered to the T, and the joint has failed, the break will look very different to a stress failure. If the rod offers resistance to being removed, don't force it.

Try checking with a magnet how much rod is left in there - I would guess it might have snapped where the thread has been cut at the other end of the rod to attach it to a captive nut. Looks like the original was buried under the fretboard from the pics, does the neck have a skunk stripe?

Take a wander down to the production room on roseville road and try a few different headphones out for comfort, ambient noise isolation etc. They do have some studio specific models like the DT-100 (very durable and excellent spareparts availability), as well as the less tanklike models aimed at hi-fi use. I would pay specific attention to how the cable attaches to the cans - I would never consider buying an amp/monitor/PA that had a cheap skinny cable hardwired into the input, as all cables die at captive strain relief points sooner or later. Double check about the monitor mixing - will you be able to make a proper mix including EQ/level of different channels, or just tweak the level of your own cans (based on experience with oldschool analogue kit, the engi is a bit restricted on the monitor mix front unless they run a separate desk for FOH and stage monitoring - of course this may be irrelevant if you are using PC/Mac/other digital solution.

[quote name='Old_Ben' timestamp='1393176922' post='2377011'] I'm a bit surprised no one has posted this up here, quite an interesting read on string tension, (even if he is overly cocky and condescending) [url="http://zacharyguitars.com/Strings.htm"]http://zacharyguitars.com/Strings.htm[/url] I currently have set the Dadario 5 string balanced set on my bass and feel that the B string is still a bit loose, might try a larger gauge B string and see if it's any better (if it'll fit in my bridge) [/quote] Wow that guy is hilarious, but unfortunately the funniest bits are unquoteable.

Might be a good idea to demount the neck and provide some pics(including headstock and back of neck), as your post doesn't really describe the neck construction in any detail - there is more than 1 way to fit a heel adjusted trussrod.

Best answers have already been posted, I don't like strangers in my home, but I've sold amps in the past, and the hallway works just fine - buyers are coming to buy the amp, so you really don't need to entertain them with food and drinks or give them a full tour of your living arrangements. Commission sale is also really painless, but it is a good idea to check in with the shop in person from time to time as these type of sales are usually very low priority for shop staff - a friend of mine sold a 4x12 cab this way, and expected them to call him when it was sold(which they didn't), they did sell the cab and he got his money no problem, but only after going down in person approx 2 years after he first took it in. Some rehearsal studios might consider selling amps/cabs on comission, and can be good places to advertise backline(most have a noticeboard), as their clientel is the sort of people who are most likely to want to buy amps/cabs.

[quote name='Manfield12' timestamp='1394851795' post='2396038'] Hi guys I've been looking to buy a new 5 string and can't decide over the cort gb75 or the fender modern player jazz bass, does any one have experience with either that could share some light on which one is better? [/quote] Both have single trussrod, and no mention of additional neck inserts in the specs which often means massive log necks, so really you need to play them and see which feels best for you.

IMHO the main issue with regards to whether an instrument is holding you back is all about ergonomics, a good set-up can make an instrument play really well, but if the instrument doesn't fit your body mechanics well, you will always be at a disadvantage regardless of the logo on the headstock and the cost of the instrument. The main problem with this situation as I see it is that the manufacturers that have really made big improvements in this area over traditional designs haven't really delivered it in traditional looking packages - Ibanez and Yamaha have turned out some really playable instruments with styling only a mother could love - how many traditional Fender fans would even consider trying something like the [url="http://s93105080.onlinehome.us/Ibanez-Catalogs/catalog/2002/38.jpg"]Ibanez EDA 905 Ergodyne[/url] (pics show some of the tamer finish options)?

If an instrument inspires you to pick it up and play it, or create music, then that quality is way more valuable than the amount of money it is worth on the open market. Looks from the front like there is enough room to take 4 pegs on the same side, so maybe you should restrict the modding to a new set of tuners and see how you feel about the bass after living with it for a while before making invasive mods that you can't reverse. edit: quick check on google shows that the tuners should be four inline and this model was made in japan, so you won't be butchering some cheap encore/marlin if you hack this up.

Just listened and enjoyed, particularly the second track "Storm of Discontent" which immediately reminded me of listening to the Bhundu Boys for the first time on John Peel's(R.I.P) radio show many years ago.