HowieBass

The Cort GB-75 JH bass has a very similar configuration - these are very nicely constructed instruments. Review here: http://youtu.be/a2epfeHo2cs

[quote name='Mornats' timestamp='1502478666' post='3351793'] Still happening, just had it now. I've just flushed my cache too. If it's an ad doing this then perhaps it's time to block that ad provider for trying to scam people, or for having piss-poor security, whichever it is. I'll stay off the desktop version of Basschat until it's been fixed. I don't want to risk my PC. [/quote] You could try installing some ad blocking software like uBlock Origin which ought to stop these annoyances - you can whitelist individual websites with it if you like.

That's a bit nice

How about either... the Zaftig bass or the Arciform bass I'll let you Google the derivations

It may be that the troublesome bass had the neck replaced which is why the action is so bad? Hopefuly a shim will resolve everything!

I've always assumed the maximum load should be no more than 3,000 watts (watts = volts x amps - roughly speaking 240 x 13).

[quote name='ped' timestamp='1499101441' post='3329184'] Ok I think it's one of the banners which calls up a code for an external tracker. Its 100% safe but presumably triggering a virus warning in some systems. I'll stop it and see if we can change the code. [/quote] That screenshot looks to me like a fake virus warning - I've seen similar where you're invited to call 'Microsoft' (and then probably be invited to hand over some payment by credit card). In other words it's a scam pop-up.

Could you inset some brass washers where the strings thread through the headstock?

It's included in their wiring schematic library https://docs.google.com/gview?embedded=true&url=https://www.bestbassgear.com/wiring-diagrams/2017/2aSB_2V_1T.pdf

Are we going to get to hear any sound clips? Pretty please?

I loved both Barry Gibb and Chic - both great sets with great tunes and really good mixes. Best sets of the festival in my opinion and that's with me a once devout Radiohead fan.

I managed about half the set, then later came back to catch the end. I've only ever seen the Foos play 'live' on TV so I accept I miss the atmosphere and the mix the crowd hears, but I was again a bit underwhelmed by the performance - vocals seemed too far back in the mix and I struggled to hear all the instruments. Now contrast this with Barry Gibb and then Chic - just had the telly on out of curiosity, and normally if there's a Bee Gees song on the radio I'd turn it over but both Gibb and Chic really impressed; great songs, great atmosphere and audience connection and the mix was great; loved Jerry Barnes' bass playing!

[quote name='Stylon Pilson' timestamp='1498144614' post='3322797'] Ahah! That's brilliant! I must admit, I personally wasn't overly enamoured of the asymmetric fingerboard widening (not that my opinion actually matters a jot, but you know what I mean), but with those dots in place, it's going to look pretty slick! S.P. [/quote] You know, I'm of exactly the same opinion - those dots look great within the extended frets - that's a really clever solution and so stylish!

I'd imagine Gotoh use metric as it's a Japanese company?

[quote name='DanH71' timestamp='1497694347' post='3320070'] I tried tightening the trust rod to lower the action but that introduced excessive buzz. I also tried loosening the trust rod and reducing the saddles height but so far it's the best I can get with the least buzz (at the specified location). Would like to bring the string height down though so will try again with your method. [/quote] I can't tell from what you've said if you've tried a setup where you first get the relief right and then set the action but you shouldn't be using the truss rod adjustment to lower the action - the truss rod adjustment is used to set the relief which is different from the action (which is set using the saddle height adjustment screws).

I usually go by Fender's recommendations https://support.fender.com/hc/en-us/articles/214343843-How-do-I-set-up-my-bass-guitar-properly- If you don't have a set of feeler gauges then a business card (not a plastic credit card) is about 0.012" thick. The neck should have enough relief in it to allow strings to vibrate and not hit the frets so you should see a slight forward bow. I'd make sure the bass was set up correctly before you start trying to file down frets; you might find that with the correct adjustments the fret buzz disappears entirely.

Fret buzz at the 'dusty' end is often due to having too much relief in the neck - have you checked the relief? I would never lower the action to compensate for higher tension strings; that's what the truss rod is for. You might be having problems with the A and D strings if the action is rather lower than the E and G, what kind of heights have you got the strings at?

Have you checked the nut slot for the E to see if that might be a little too wide for the current string gauge?

[quote name='EssentialTension' timestamp='1496868903' post='3314453'] I don't quite get this. On a typical Fender style bridge, the bridge saddles are separate for each string and should be flat not radiused. Any 'radius' of the strings, which I take to mean the varied string height above the fret at the octave position, is then brought about by raising or lowering the bridge saddles individually to get the desired action. [/quote] Probably lack of detail in how others are describing their approach - and yes indeed saddles should remain level but the individual strings closely follow the fretboard radius, typically with a variance of around 0.5 millimetres across the neck (say 2.5 mm string height for the E and 2mm for the G with the A and D intermediate between those).

I tend to try for the Fender suggested string action heights which, since they're in relation to the frets, are close to the radius of the fretboard - in other words exactly as Twincam explains.

I think screws filling the holes would look neater than just leaving them vacant. I doubt there'd be a way to fill the pickguard holes 'invisibly'.

There are special drill bits that remove a plug of wood (somewhat like an apple corer) - you could get the broken screw out that way, then replace the missing wood with a dowel before drilling a pilot hole for the new screw... or as you say, save yourself the bother and just leave it.

Yeah I think is tasteful and tuneful so a +1 from me too!

I wonder if that's the distance between the underside of string and top of pickup without fretting the strings at the highest fret?

TV on mute, listening to Refused "The Shape of Punk to Come" on headphones... awesome!!!