TPJ

Fealess cabs aren't that efficient but sound fabulous so it's worth getting a more powerful amp to break even. They are pretty close if not all the way FRFR so what ever you put in you get out, you just need a bit more power. As an interesting side note, when I first got the single F112, I tried a Markbass LMII, the GK MB800 and an Acoustic Image Focus 1 staight in, no effects. The Markbass sounded great but ran out of puff and you could hear it compressing quite a bit at higher volume. The AI, when pushed, distorted enough that I thought something was wrong with the speaker or the amp. After reading a few early articles about the F112 it turns out that the cab is that clear you will hear if a power amp is stuggling and distorting, even if the input gain is fine. It surprised me that the AI suffered this as with every other cab, it sounded great. I still use it but only on quite, small gigs. The GK was the winner at the time although I'd love to try the Quitler.

Are you an MU member Rabbie? I think you get insurance as part of that.

I use a GK MB800 with my F112. Works well. I imagine the Quilter would too judging by reports from other Fearless users. If you use Facebook there are a few groups on there dedicated to Fearful/Greenboy if you want more advice from users. I replaced a three-way 212 with one Fearless F112 pretty successfully. Once in a very long while I'll need more sound and I bought a second F112 for those times. I have yet to need it since buying it though...lol.

It's the standard silicone tips that shipped with the IEMs. I didn't know what they were made from :). I found them easier to use than the ones with the foam. The UE900s have seemingly much less bass than the Sennheisers, and now I understand why from the earlier explanation in this thread from EBS_Freak. They are clearer sounding in a sense. I used the UE900s and Snugs again last night and they worked ok, I was able to get them to seat better. But, I laugh, smile and move around quite a bit when playing and any of those actions would make the seal pop and I'd have to futz with my ears to get them seated again while playing. So I'm more content with using them but am still struggling with the IEM thing :).

Thanks for the help. I'll get in touch with Snugs to see how they make them and ask for advice.

I've had a play around with the UE 900s IEMs using both the regular rubber tips that came with them and the Snugs. They both sound about the same. The Snugs are a little more tricky to get in but stay put better. I'm wondering about a few things though. 1. I use Sennheiser HD25 headphones at home to practice and they have a pretty full sound with what I would call great bass response and good isolation. The UE900s with either the OEM tips or with the Snugs sound more boxy and seem to offer less bass, even though they are the model that are supposed to have 'subs' in them. Maybe I'm trying to get something out of them that doesn't exist and blaming it on the tips or Snugs. Maybe they just don't have good low end. 2. If the ear molds that were taken were not accurate, what would have happened if I had gone for an expensive reshell, especially when they were done in the US or over in Singapore, and they didn't seal? Could it be that some people have ear canals that are hard to get IEMS to work? I have a gig this weekend and will try the Snugs again but will also try my cheapo Betron ear buds just for comparison of sound, ease of use and isolation.

IME, the Spiro weichs are different to mittels in that they are warmer sounding and generally a little less tension. I struggled to get good definition on the Duke bass with weichs and the E was rather thuddy. It was great for bluegrass but not so much for everything else. The Spiro mittels worked much better and were surprisingly not that much more tension on that bass. One thing to keep in mind is that strings react differently on differnt basses. Weichs didn't suit the Duke bass where it needed to cover several styles. The Mittels are much better on that bass, but Mittels were like the dreaded banjo strings on my hybrid bass. That bass wears Velvet Animas to try and tame the bright nature. Hopefully you can find a string or combo of strings early on and not get caught up in the string game. It can get expensive.

The place that did the impressions, Binns Hearing in Bradford, does them all the time. There were no instructions from Snuggs that I know of although they did get in touch with the place prior to my appointment to sort payment. I'll have more time this weekend to mess around and see what I can do. Many thanks for the help and advice.

1. They took both kinds of impressions and I specified open for the molds as I sing. 2. I don't recall pulling that part back, just pushed them in and twisted a bit until they felt "in". The external sound was definitely occluded but it felt like the very ends were not sealed/seated, especially when really opening the jaw. I could feel them sealing and then releasing a little bit which then affect the sound. A quick poke and they seemed to go back in. Maybe I didn't get them in correctly in the first place. 3. Sometimes they don't seal as well. The left will feel better than the right then after taking them out and putting them back in, the right would feel better etc... They are colour coded so I'm not confusing the molds. I don't think I'm doing it correctly. I can try and get some pics when I get home.

So, a number of weeks ago I ordered molds from Snugs for my UE900s IEMs. The process took a little longer than the website stated but got there in the end. I've only played one gig with them but it was hot and we were rushed setting up so I don't know if the seal was good. I've since tried them at home and the seal seems to change from ear to ear when I put them in. The audiologist noted I had long ear canals and it took her three or four attmepts to get molds she was happy with. These were then sent to Snugs for manufacturing. They feel way better than the ear buds and I just need to figure out how to ensure a good seal. One thing I want to do is change the leads, the hard cable over the ear may be interfering with the seal and swivels around a bit.

This is good info. We usually mic the room, close mic the bass, stick a SM58 wrapped in foam in the bridge and take a feed from the piezo. Then they usually mix one or all of it to get the sound.

The Countryman basses are great, as mentioned. I put some of those metal Ubass strings on and it made it even better :).

That's an interesting observation as I find the F112's have loads of bottom end. That's why I bought your's :). One F112 replaced my EAD 212 three way cab. They are inefficient compared to other designs but I find they have plenty of low end, even when using high pass filters. I guess we all have different ideas of what we want to hear.

Maybe try a search for local community orchestras. There's bound to be one or two near. Get in touch with the double bass players to see who teaches or where they go for lessons.

Looks great. Enjoy :).

Because the Fearless is a commercial cab, I don't think Greenboy let the specs go pubic. The Fearful range, which is the DIY version, has the specs available. Google is your friend on that. I have two F112s and they are great cabs. I don't think there is too much difference between them and the BB2, just personal preference. I pretty much always run just one cab as I've never really needed more, but having two is a wonderful luxury when they both get used :). Tricky Audio build very nice cabs with lots of options and are great with after sales help. As mentioned above, the TKS 1126 is very similar to the F112.

I've found the phase switch is not just for mics. There are noticeable changes to the tone depending on the pickup. It can make a pup sound more open when using the phase switch. Don't ask me why but it does change the sound. The HPF isn't a notch filter. It certainly has helped especially when running without an amp, which was how we were used to performing at festivals and pubs etc... If they are pumping a lot of bass through subs then it can get out of hand quickly. The HPF helps control that, IME.

This is the company that i used, as did a few others if memory serves. http://4114customeffects.co.uk

There's a white Hagstrom for £360 on the Facebook Bass Players Market page.

Looks great. Love the upper bouts. Great shape.

Daflewis posted this a few years back that looked great and is similar to the McNutt. https://www.thebassbar.co.uk/

I've tried a few preamps for DB and always seem to go back to the FDeck Clone. Has a great buffer and the useful HPF and phase switch. You can get them made in several forms and are pretty cheap.

I bought a MXR bass distortion pedal from Nord1. Very smooth transaction with great comms throughout. Quick delivery on this too. Great to deal with. Many thanks for the cool pedal.

Do those quotes refer to the acutal speaker itself or the speaker in an enclosure? I may be confused between speaker and driver.