dannybuoy

Looks like a load of bollocks to me.

Use a splitter cable or 3-way daisy cable on the 18V output, 100mA should cover both pedals, I've powered the same comp plus a Pike Vulcan from the DC5 before. Hotrox stock the full range of Cioks accessory cables! But either of those pedals would be perfectly happy at 12V also. If you hear clipping in the Cali or the clean channel of the PL when digging in hard, then you'll want 18V. If testing out the PL in a shop, note that there are internal controls too, one of which affects the low end! If you want dark bass-heavy soft-clipping OD, you might also like the SolidgoldFX Beta. That won a little shootout on my board when I was looking for a dirty boost to go in front of an Tech21 VT 500 or Darkglass M900 head (so similar ballpark to a BDDI). One of the few that really maintain your low end presence in the mix when you stomp on it at high volume!

I sold mine for exactly the same reason - after tweaking the internal trim to let the most low end through, the clean side sounded very buzzy. Never thought to try it at 18V, at the time it wasn't common knowledge that it could accept it!

I think the Pork Loin circuit in this pedal will be a lot brighter than the Pork Loins of old - there was a popular bright mod doing the rounds on Talkbass and Way Huge took heed and revised their circuit, now this one features a presence control for the OD which I assume will be able to replicate the original darker sound plus a much brighter one. Never tried a Swollen Pickle, but in general mild overdrives into Big Muff fuzzes work very well indeed so stacking would have been nice. But that would have made the circuit more complex/expensive, and to be fair it's still better value than one of their standalone overdrive or fuzz pedals!

The OmniCabSim pedal is great, it has an XLR output with lots of volume on tap and the Deluxe version even has a (mono) headphone amp with aux in. The pluses of this particular unit are that it's 100% analog (low power usage, less noise issues on a daisy chain, zero processing delay which is useful if you're also sending a dry signal to the FOH also) and that you have hands on control to fine tune the response to get the sound just right. Downsides are you have to order one direct from Chile!

Just listened to it through my phone at the lowest volume setting held up to my ear (!) and thought it was obvious that the MM was #2. The first one sounds thinner due to the pickup being closer to the bridge, the second one is fatter and growlier.

I have 500W and 900W amps that I quite comfortably play in my bedroom. The actual difference between the 300W and 500W would probably not be that great. I think the real is, if you can't adjust the volume of the amp effectively, it's not a very good amp!

The Ultra versions are great for the adjustable mid EQ points, but the dual footswitch thing isn't that useful IMHO. Without the Ultra's drive engaged, you just have a (very good) clean EQ, however you're stuck with those same EQ settings with the drive on and off. If your amp had a decent EQ already and you don't really need another clean EQ, it'd be better to use the pedal's EQ just to sculpt the drive tone, making the clean/dirty switching redundant. E.g. I find that when using the Vintage with the blend towards the wet side I like to dial in a dollop of bass and treble boost, which I might not necessarily want when I switch back to a clean sound. Therefore I'd just turn the whole pedal on or off, so could have just stuck with the regular VMTD!

The Barefaced One10 plus micro amp setup can be pretty loud and should more then cover your needs. But if you are truly doing low volume coffee shop type gigs, a PJB Double Four should suffice and is about the size of a shoe box!

We have a product page! http://www.tech21nyc.com/products/sansamp/dug_dp3x.html

Had a go earlier playing the My Generation solo with a Thunderbird, the VT Bass sounded pretty good. The Joyo American Sound was a bit more buzzy and darker, not quite as close but still very good for the price. I’d like to give the Leeds a bash though!

Also be aware that if you swapped it for a 4ohm Two10, you would have less speaker area but since the impedance is halved, the amp would be delivering more watts to the cab with the volume control at the same position, so swings and roundabouts! There is a 12ohm version of the cab though and the latest ones are 4/12 switchable.

Yes you will be quieter playing into an equivalent cab with less speaker area. But different cabs have different sensitivity values so you can't say the same for sure when looking at different brands. Did you say that amp had clicks on the volume control so you can't take it below 1? If so that's a stupid design and I'd be looking at a new amp. Trying to reduce your volume by switching cabs is the wrong path.

It's not as bright/clangy as the VT or Leeds but still has plenty of low end and tube like grunt. Can't go wrong for £25 anyway! https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01A89FPMU

Listen to the end of this to get an idea:

His tone is most likely just an overdriven tube amp, so I'd try one of the Tech21 character series or one of the many cheap clones about these days. I can get close with my VT Bass or my dirt cheap Joyo American Sound (I've seen other branded versions of this going for £25 new).

Not always the case. Depends on the power supply design I suppose, but some will shutdown when your pedals are drawing too much power. It’s likely that the Le Bass needs less than quoted in the manual, and the DC5 puts out more than quoted in the manual since both vendors factor in a safety margin, and somewhere in the middle the pedal is getting all the juice it needs whilst the power supply just starts to sweat a little bit!

I just powered mine straight from a single 12V 300mA socket, worked without an issue. BTW I’ll be having a Le Bass up for sale very soon if you’re after one!

My basses sit in a rack except for the T-Bird which is more stable in the Hercules stand. Recommended!

Go for it if you want to learn it. It's lower on my priority list though than learning to recognise intervals and chords by ear and figuring out which scales and shapes are best to apply over them. My aim is to be a better musician in a jam situation where there is no sheet music around though! You don't have to learn how to read sheet music to make significant progress as a player - Pino can't read music and he's one of the most in demand session players on the planet!

The latest B3K version has the tone control added btw. But the best LPF is the free one you get from not having tweeters! I'd probably say the HGBM was too warm and muffled if you were trying to make the T-Bird sound brighter and bring out the string clank and overtones (which is what the VT, Agro and B3K are great for). Tell you what, I'll do a few clips with my Epi Classic Pro T-Bird for you before I put it up for sale!

I suppose if your playing a T-Bird, those pickups are really fat with the emphasis on the lows, so you would want something that really brought out the upper mid growl without sounding fizzy? I like the VT Bass or Agro the most with my T-Bird, both pedals can be dialled back to a reasonably flat clean sound so can be as subtle as you like. What have you tried so far?

Most people gravitated towards the 500 series over the 300 due to it's nicer finish, active/passive switching, a 'grown up' EQ rather than 'Fisher Price My First Active Bass' preset system, and the belief that the higher price reflected a higher quality bass. However when I gave the 300 series a bash I instantly thought it was the better sounding instrument and those presets were pretty handy too!

Bear in mind that all the demos done by the second guy basically sound the same as he is going into a distorted Line6 SVT model for recording! Does sound good though, but I'll never forget the B7K demo he did where the first 5 seconds had an awesome overdrive tone... then he turned the pedal on!

Electronics look the same as (or very close to) the 5 series. Anybody else happen to think the cheaper 3 series sounded better though?!