dannybuoy

Fender's site pees me off. Whenever I get an email from them the links are broken because it just redirects to the UK home page!

Sure but if you really want to dull the upper harmonics, the tone control would be more effective and quicker to try than a string swap!

Unlikely.

If I play an open E, it glitches to the octave above after about 1.5 seconds. If I play the same note on the low B it can hold the lower octave for several seconds. Open strings have more upper harmonics since your finger isn't in contact with the string, it's those that confuse the tracking as it can't tell if you're playing an open E or an E at the twelfth fret, so it bounces up and down trying to lock onto the note.

1. The cheapest you can find, they're all pretty much the same! However I have one daisy chain that has shorter than standard connectors which have trouble fitting in some pedals... 2. You might be able to squeeze those on a Pedaltrain Nano+, otherwise look at the larger Metro ones. Their site has a pedalboard planner app so you can check for yourself! 3. The Pedaltrain boards come with velcro but the stuff the supply currently is not sticky enough and keeps coming off my pedals (never had this issue with the board I bought from them years ago though). Most branded stuff should be better in quality, but many people swear by 3M Dual Lock, similar to velcro but is more of a mushroom shape than a hook and is much stronger!

This. I don't possess any magic, various analog octavers I've had have all glitched on sustained notes on open strings, yet been pretty stable on most fretted notes apart from the odd one here or there. Setup might be something to do with it, my action isn't that low and I have no string buzz to throw it off.

Sounds like it's a good time to try a new bass if you've had that one for so long... but I would try and visit a few shops and play as many basses as possible first as it sounds like you have GAS for the SR just because it was refreshingly different to your old bass. You might find you really gel with a Jazz/Precision/Stingray/Thunderbird/whatever even more than the SR!

Mine died a couple of years ago... It was several years old, out of warranty, and I bought it used, but I took it into PMT (as they are an Orange dealer) who sent it to Orange for repair and all I had to pay was £25 to cover the courier costs. Worth a try!

Looks like a load of bollocks to me.

Use a splitter cable or 3-way daisy cable on the 18V output, 100mA should cover both pedals, I've powered the same comp plus a Pike Vulcan from the DC5 before. Hotrox stock the full range of Cioks accessory cables! But either of those pedals would be perfectly happy at 12V also. If you hear clipping in the Cali or the clean channel of the PL when digging in hard, then you'll want 18V. If testing out the PL in a shop, note that there are internal controls too, one of which affects the low end! If you want dark bass-heavy soft-clipping OD, you might also like the SolidgoldFX Beta. That won a little shootout on my board when I was looking for a dirty boost to go in front of an Tech21 VT 500 or Darkglass M900 head (so similar ballpark to a BDDI). One of the few that really maintain your low end presence in the mix when you stomp on it at high volume!

I sold mine for exactly the same reason - after tweaking the internal trim to let the most low end through, the clean side sounded very buzzy. Never thought to try it at 18V, at the time it wasn't common knowledge that it could accept it!

I think the Pork Loin circuit in this pedal will be a lot brighter than the Pork Loins of old - there was a popular bright mod doing the rounds on Talkbass and Way Huge took heed and revised their circuit, now this one features a presence control for the OD which I assume will be able to replicate the original darker sound plus a much brighter one. Never tried a Swollen Pickle, but in general mild overdrives into Big Muff fuzzes work very well indeed so stacking would have been nice. But that would have made the circuit more complex/expensive, and to be fair it's still better value than one of their standalone overdrive or fuzz pedals!

The OmniCabSim pedal is great, it has an XLR output with lots of volume on tap and the Deluxe version even has a (mono) headphone amp with aux in. The pluses of this particular unit are that it's 100% analog (low power usage, less noise issues on a daisy chain, zero processing delay which is useful if you're also sending a dry signal to the FOH also) and that you have hands on control to fine tune the response to get the sound just right. Downsides are you have to order one direct from Chile!

Just listened to it through my phone at the lowest volume setting held up to my ear (!) and thought it was obvious that the MM was #2. The first one sounds thinner due to the pickup being closer to the bridge, the second one is fatter and growlier.

I have 500W and 900W amps that I quite comfortably play in my bedroom. The actual difference between the 300W and 500W would probably not be that great. I think the real is, if you can't adjust the volume of the amp effectively, it's not a very good amp!

The Ultra versions are great for the adjustable mid EQ points, but the dual footswitch thing isn't that useful IMHO. Without the Ultra's drive engaged, you just have a (very good) clean EQ, however you're stuck with those same EQ settings with the drive on and off. If your amp had a decent EQ already and you don't really need another clean EQ, it'd be better to use the pedal's EQ just to sculpt the drive tone, making the clean/dirty switching redundant. E.g. I find that when using the Vintage with the blend towards the wet side I like to dial in a dollop of bass and treble boost, which I might not necessarily want when I switch back to a clean sound. Therefore I'd just turn the whole pedal on or off, so could have just stuck with the regular VMTD!

The Barefaced One10 plus micro amp setup can be pretty loud and should more then cover your needs. But if you are truly doing low volume coffee shop type gigs, a PJB Double Four should suffice and is about the size of a shoe box!

We have a product page! http://www.tech21nyc.com/products/sansamp/dug_dp3x.html

Had a go earlier playing the My Generation solo with a Thunderbird, the VT Bass sounded pretty good. The Joyo American Sound was a bit more buzzy and darker, not quite as close but still very good for the price. I’d like to give the Leeds a bash though!

Also be aware that if you swapped it for a 4ohm Two10, you would have less speaker area but since the impedance is halved, the amp would be delivering more watts to the cab with the volume control at the same position, so swings and roundabouts! There is a 12ohm version of the cab though and the latest ones are 4/12 switchable.

Yes you will be quieter playing into an equivalent cab with less speaker area. But different cabs have different sensitivity values so you can't say the same for sure when looking at different brands. Did you say that amp had clicks on the volume control so you can't take it below 1? If so that's a stupid design and I'd be looking at a new amp. Trying to reduce your volume by switching cabs is the wrong path.

It's not as bright/clangy as the VT or Leeds but still has plenty of low end and tube like grunt. Can't go wrong for £25 anyway! https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01A89FPMU

Listen to the end of this to get an idea:

His tone is most likely just an overdriven tube amp, so I'd try one of the Tech21 character series or one of the many cheap clones about these days. I can get close with my VT Bass or my dirt cheap Joyo American Sound (I've seen other branded versions of this going for £25 new).