dannybuoy

I don't think they are overly sturdy seeing as from the 10 or so I bought, 2 of them were DOA! They should last a long time on a pedalboard though if handled with care.

Don't stress, there are tons of people using them happily, you might never experience an issue! I used them on my board for a bit and only discovered an issue when I started using a PJB Bighead for practice which was a lot more revealing for noise than my tweeterless cab. After an expensive power supply upgrade the noise remained so I tested all my cables in a true bypass looper and found these ones to add significant noise but only when I had the dimmer switch on in my room. But at a gig or studio you can never tell what kind of electrical interference you might encounter...

The reviewers loved the Deluxe on bass, I have to say it was one of the best sounding too. I don't think you'd go far wrong, there's probably plenty of used ones on the market too outside of BC!

Maybe a magnetic badge you can peel on and off like a fridge magnet... bonus being you could also put it on your fridge when not playing through your BF cab.

The Green Russian is awesome, but if you want to 'cut through' you might like something with more mids. I've never had a problem with it being heard though - it has soooo much bass and low mids it kind of 'pokes under' rather than 'cuts through' if you know what I mean! Might be just what you need - instead of trying to cut through the upper mids battling against 3 guitars, just sit underneath them and totally dominate those frequencies. I discovered that the upper raspiness of the muff quickly gets lost in a busy mix so I stopped trying to fight it and just turned the tone control down to just own the low end!

I like messing around with different preamp pedals, so I can effectively use the Orange at its flat setting as a cheap but very loud and very nice sounding power amp! About the common valve swap for lower gain tubes - does it end up sounding basically the same but for example gain at 9 o'clock on a 12AX7 equivalent to 1 o'clock on a 12AU7? Or is there an audible change in tone

What's misleading though is that all 3 EQ knobs on the OTB are labelled Cut and Boost on the left and right sides, with a zero at the 12 o'clock position!

This video confirms what I've been trying to tell people for ages - those flat patch cables from EBS and Rockboard are very prone to noise in certain environments (skip to 22:46). Not seen those mini Ibanez ones before, they look great!

The one I had felt like a dead plank though compared to the Classic 50s. Like all basses some of them sing and some don't!

The comes a point though where if you're talking about sourcing genuine Fender parts, you may as well just buy the Steve Harris Sig and be done with it!

I reckon that 'worn-in feeling' is mainly down to the satin finish instead of the hard plastic feeling poly finish. I'd say there's a good chance the Lacquer version has the same smooth feel as the RW just without the dirt and cigarette burn!

I just wished I'd waited and ordered that Silver Peg the following day when eBay had 20% off everything site wide!

Didn't the Classic 50s with the poly finish get replaced by the Classic 50s Lacquer with a nitro finish a few years ago? That would make the only difference between them being the relic job. The RW gets raved about, but I had a RW and Classic 50s in the house at the same time and the 50s walked all over it when it came to resonance and tone. Of course basses vary individually so it could just as equally have swayed the other way! That 50s was the best sounding P I'd ever tried except I did not get on with the combination of wide neck, curvy radius, and sharp fingerboard edges.

You can ask Alex to make it with the badge in whatever position you want with the cloth grille as far as I know. It's the steel grille where your options are limited because there is a special space for it in the design.

If you're open to bolt-ons, and don't mind the 'interesting' body shapes, Reverend basses are worth a look too. Some of them have a P pickup configuration within a larger Musicman style housing.

Stratosphere in the US stock all kind of random Fender necks, but they're not cheap to import: https://stratosphereparts.com/vintage-50s-ri-fender-p-bass-neck-precision-guitar-1957-tinted-maple-sale/ They've actually got 3 Steve Harris bodies in stock so might be worth emailing them to see if any of the necks are still lurking around! I'm not aware of any aftermarket necks with similar specs... Might be an idea to keep an eye out for a cheap used Classic 50s P and break it up for parts.

I found the Ultimate Drive quite lacking in bass for me... The American Sound has tons on tap though due to it's 3 band EQ that still has decent low end without having to boost the bass. It's pretty versatile too, just at home with a mellow Precision and flats or a more aggressive Jazz with rounds. I think I got mine for £15 used! I've yet to try the Orange Juice though but will probably get one to try soon - might order the out-of-stock one on sold by Amazon for £38 delivered (normally £50 everywhere else) as they would have to honour that price when it came back in stock!

Also Warwick and Spector surely have done a few neck-thru PJ 5ers?

Yamaha BB5000? I don't have one but it's the first that sprung to mind, and may be of interest since you have a modern bolt-on equivalent! Narrower string spacing than the current gen BBs though, as I understand.

I couldn't find much out there from bassists using the Double Drive apart from one comment where they said it lacked low end, so you'd probably be better off elsewhere. Bass overdrive is a total minefield though, biggest factors are budget and what kind of sound do you want, e.g. a soft clipping tube amp style overdrive, or a harsher high gain distortion, or a rich sustaining fuzz? You don't necessarily need something bass dedicated as there are plenty of bargains out there that are great on both guitar and bass, for example - TC MojoMojo, Joyo American Sound, Joyo Orange Juice.

Also this one is worth a look: https://www.cogeffects.co.uk/tarkin-fuzz.php

https://youtu.be/Ulqt_Im4Txw

You can fit a Cioks DC5 or Visual Sound CS6 underneath, but if you don't want to go to that expense I would just run a couple of standard 12V/9V adapters for such a small setup. There is also a chance your 9V pedals will run happily at 12V, meaning you could just run a single 12V daisy chain. It's risky, but I've had many a happy accident running 9V pedals at 18V by mistake only to find they sounded even better!

Only issue is that might blow up the DHA that's only expecting 12V, or blow up the adapter since it's only rated for 80mA when I would estimate that the DHA needs around 300-500mA. On the other hand, thanks for posting as that one has a 15V option that I've not seen before, and I have a 15V pedal incoming!

Thing is though, you could get a second cheap isolated supply for the same price as a couple of 12V / 18V adaptors: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Adjustable-Switching-Stabilized-Anallobar-AC100-240V-DC8/dp/B015XZQWIU https://www.musicstore.de/en_GB/GBP/Fame-DC8/art-GIT0038973-000 A word of warning, these adapters have a max current rating and the DHA takes quite a lot of juice to power, so check your numbers carefully before buying anything!