dannybuoy

Skip back a few pages to Dangerboy's board - he got about 13 on a PT-Jr, probably a record!

The tweeter in the CMD 121P sounds harsh when using fuzz. But for cleaner sounds where I have the VLE on a little bit, the tweeter doesn't bother me in the slightest. Maybe it would if I was a Jazz slapper, but I'm more of a Precision fingerer.

My vote goes for the Peavey Microbass for clear relatively uncoloured sound and low price, and the Orange Crush 35B for something a little louder, more expensive, more vintage sounding, and more badass looking!

Before you hump the bandwagon, check the TB thread out about this amp, looks like plenty of people are having issues ranging from distortion, RF interference, amp overheating and cutting out, etc! Plus they've showcased a new version with the tube pre from the Fusion range at NAMM - I think it had like 3 tubes and 800W in the same piddly sized amp!

The ISP Decimator G-String is supposed to be better than the Boss NS-2 by the way, although it's also more expensive... [url="http://www.isptechnologies.com/decimatorGpedal.htm"]http://www.isptechnologies.com/decimatorGpedal.htm[/url]

It only ha a model of a Hartke 3500 I think. You should get Ampeg SVX... If it's too expensive there's always 'try-before-you-buy-ware'...

Loads of comps have a glowing LED to indicate the amount of compression going on. The one on the EBS Multicomp works great - the main LED glows dimly when the effect is on, and shines brightly to show the amount of gain reduction. I think the BBE Opto Stomp may do this too but I haven't used one. The Diamond Compressor has a LED that changes colour when crossing the threshold.

Digitech Bad Monkey - cheaper and better in my opinion! You can get em new for £29.

I've had the MkI Supercollider for a while now since being blown away by Burgermeister's original clips on Talkbass. When I saw this version pop up I ordered it straight away, and have been lucky enough to end up with the first one made! At 4.5" x 5.5", it's bigger than the original which was 3.5" x 4.5". The jacks are positioned on top this time which may save some pedalboard space, although I like to play this pedal first in line so the top mounted jacks can be a pain to access depending on your arrangement. It has 3 coloured LEDs, green, white and blue, 2 extra stomps labelled Osc 1 and Osc 2, plus a knob for Osc 2. Internally, things have improved with a better quality PCB, better jacks, new battery and cable clips, and tidier soldering (not that it was bad before, but now it's very neat indeed). Here's some pics: So what do these new controls do? Turning on Osc 1 makes the pedal generate a oscillating tone in the background that creeps in as your note volume decays. The pitch and timbre of this can be affected by the depth and gain controls, as well as the vol/tone controls on your bass. If you have a buffered pedal before the Supercollider then the guitar's knobs do not affect the tone as much, so I like to run this pedal first in line. Then again I like my Boss OC-2 before it, so I may look at getting a true bypass strip to get the best of both worlds. This switch also seems to increase the gain and bass, making it sound even more βΘИΞКЯŲŜĦÏИĞ. Osc 2 is a more intense oscillator that has more strength to overpower your signal and get things a bit crazier. The pitch and sound of this can also be affected by the knobs on both the pedal and your bass. By turning the gain down and having the Osc 2 knob down quite low you can get very gated synthy settings, although without much low end. Like Osc 1 it also changes the fuzz tone as well as providing oscillation and crazy noises. It's possible to get very useable sounds with both engaged, and also to get crazy sounds when reducing the gain or guitar volume. A pedal like this is hard to do clips of. You can spend ages playing with it, tweaking all the knobs to try and figure out what you can get out of it - so [url="http://www.box.net/shared/enube1p1f8"]the clip here is 11 minutes of me arsing about with it[/url]. It starts off with normal Supercollider mode, gain maxed, depth on minimum, mids and tone almost full. Then Osc 1 comes in and the riff is repeated (note the extra heaviness!), and after that I just go off on one with Osc 2 on most of the time. Most of it sounds awful but there's some good sounds in there too! There's also a [url="http://www.box.net/shared/hmajobp91d"]clip of me playing a couple of Muse basslines[/url], because I felt like it. All clips are recorded using a Squier Vintage Modified P-Bass direct into a Radial JDI and Mackie Onyx Satellite. Overall I'm digging it and it's going on the board. Mark at Earthbound has now stopped taking orders for these (you can still order the regular Supercollider though) but will make them every now and then and sell them through [url="http://www.etsy.com/"]www.etsy.com/[/url].

You can get em new for £495 from the [url="http://www.basscentre.com/product.asp?pID=113&cID=35"]Bass Centre[/url], but as they are so sought after they hold their value pretty well and £380 is a good deal if it's in nice condition.

If running 2 8ohm cabs, you should get slightly more than 500w if running them from separate outputs, as a guestimate maybe 650w. And there's no problem running the amp with no speaker connected, I think that applies to tube amps only.

[quote name='bassmansky' post='383229' date='Jan 17 2009, 01:52 PM']tryed the LG 1000 out this morning at pmt.first tryed it with a abm 4x10 cab using a squier cv 60's jazz.sounded good lots of different sounds to be had out of this.seemed better than my abm head imo.secondly tried it with 1x15 and 2x10 superfly cabs using a highway 1 p-bass and this sounded much better,a cleaner and clearer sound.didnt realise till i looked on ashdowns website that the superfly cabs are all 4ohms.so can you use 2x4ohm cabs with it?wont do a full review on the amp i'll leave that to someone more experienced!as has been posted earlier this amp will work best at a 4ohm load,bit quiet with one 8ohm cab imo.still they are small , light and cheap. ashdown on to a winner with these i think![/quote] The LG1000 effectively is 2 x 500w amps, each capable of running at 4 ohms. So you can run 2 4ohm cabs with this head IF you plug them into separate outputs on the amp - this is the best way of using the amp, letting you get the full 1000w out of it. Don't daisy chain them off a single output as that would give you a 2 ohm load and probably bugger it!

There's also new Markbass 800W Little Marks, with or without tube preamp! Check the many NAMM threads over at Talkbass...

Lots of ways, either by linking the amps up via their fx loop sends or tuner outputs, or using some kind of splitter. Using the fx loop out from one amp to the fx return on another will let you control volume and eq from a single point. Another great cheap way to do this is with a Boss stereo chorus pedal on a subtle setting, which can sound really fat.

Fortress Studios in Old Street are good, they have a massive Trace stack with 2 4x10s that absolutely kicks, and their PA is massive. Rooz in Old Street has Orange valve amps which are cool, and the place is pretty funky for a rehearsal studio - it has a bar, and sometimes the rehearsal rooms open up and turn into mini gigs! Terminal Studios in London Bridge is pretty good with decent equipment (Ashdown mostly). I used to use Unit 9 in Balham (who also have Ashdown amps), mainly because it's close to me... There's one in Streatham by the kart track that's meant to be pretty good too. If you use Scar in Camden, be prepared to either take your own amp or use a farty Behringer or an even more farty fossil of unknown origin from the seventies!

Zoom B2 does pretty much everything the Pandora does, is dirt cheap and sounds great.

Dr Bass 1580 looks awesome, they have smaller 4 ohm cabs too. You can get them from RIM Basses, who is a member on here. BFM Omni 10s also pop up for sale on here occasionally. But it looks like you might have a smokin deal with that DIY 15!

Get The Vintage so that you'll look like an old school badass!