pete.young

I'm grappling with a similar issue. I have a DMX controller which accepts Midi input to change functions. If yours does the same then a midi foot controller might be a solution. I have an old midi foot controler project which I'm going to try and revive to see if I can get it working. If I were starting from scratch I'd buy the Bigfoot linked about. That looks like a great piece of kit for minimal programming effort.

Well, the sad day eventually comes and @Gasman ascends the to the pearly gates. St Peter checks his clipboard - "right, Gasman, bass player, would you mind going over there with all the other bass players". So Gasman is having a fab time shaking hands with Jack Bruce, James Jameson, Ray Brown, when he hears some incredible fretless playing, coming from behind a wall. "Who's that?" he says. "Jaco Pastorius" says Jack Bruce "Why is he behind the wall?" "He thinks he's the only one here!".

Great colour too. I'm struggling to see what the difference between this and my BB800 is, other than the fancy position markers. Is the fingerboard ebony?

Happy birthday and many happy returns to you Daryl. You're looking good, must have had an easy paper round 🙂 I've just joined a band where I thought the drummer booked the gigs. Not so - it turns out that we are all expected to take an area and chase up bookings. I'm not thrilled about that, it's not one of my favourite things. But I guess it's not unreasonable.

I expect the '54 Dakota Red Strat, for a start.

This new one is even better.

Ruggedised ethernet cables are more robust than standard Cat 5 and provide you with a bit more protection for live use. Something like this: https://www.canford.co.uk/Index/Cat-5e-ruggedised-Ethercon-cables/CANFORD-ETHERCON-CAT5E-SCREENED-CABLES-Using-Cat5E-R-ruggedised-deployable-cable Roland also make one called the RRC2 cable, which is used to connect a VB99 or VG99 unit to the FC300 foot controller.

Who are you, and what have you done with the real @Happy Jack ?

You might want to re-post this in the Double Bass and EUB forum, might get some more relevant views there.

"The DeSoto Custom has active electronics featuring a master volume, pan/balance, treble boost/cut at 7 kHz and bass boost/cut at 40 Hz with up to 13dB of gain."

That's not how it works - once you're in, you can look round the shop and try what you like. If you do have something in mind beforehand, they'll get it ready for you. Last time I bought a guitar from them, they let me try it in a separate room so other customers making noise wasn't an issue.

The way they run the appointments system isn't onerous. I'm in Ipswich , round trip is about 50 miles so even before the appointment system, I'd ring and check they were open. It's nowhere near a high-street so there are no walk-ins anyway. The value of their stock is mind-blowing - several millions of pounds and that's just the acoustic guitars.

Strange. I seem to recall the OLP version had one tone control and two volume controls, one for each coil of the humbucker. That makes slightly more sense.

Dunno if @51m0n still frequents this forum but I remember the workshop he did on compression at one of the bass bashes. He had a Focusrite unit in a rack, wired into the amp effects loop which was set to Serial in order to compress the entire signal. Sorry but I don't recall which one. Not sure which part of Essex you're in, if it's the Colchester end I have an old Phonic PCL3200 which you are welcome to borrow to see if you can make it do anything useful.

For shame Russ, get the lad a proper baby walker!

Don't dismiss the PJB Double Four out of hand. It's surprisingly loud for it's size and will give any 25W 10" a run for it's money. I've also used a PJB Briefcase with double bass and it works pretty well, but it's a heavy little beast even without the battery.

Great work, excellent result. I'd be trying ADF#A or AC#EA and play it with a slide, like a lap steel.

If you were hoping to fraudulently sell a non-existent amp, it could be very useful to have a legitimate serial number to help convince your mark. Maybe he was trying to prevent this kind of fraud.

This looks similar to my old Musima, it looks like someone has attempted a not-very-good repair using PVA, which has splintered the wood off the side of the neck and stuck it into the socket, and possibly also stuck some of the socket onto the neck sides. I took the Musima to a local luthier and he came up with 3 options. Option 1 was so expensive he didn't bother writing it down! I think this was a non-screw option, which may also have involved making a new neck. Option 2 aka bodge was to clean off the PVA, leave the splintered wood in place and attempt to glue the neck back in place hoping it would still fit reasonably tightly. And then drill the heel and fit 2 long screws through the heel and into the body block, which would provide pretty much all of the strength. Option 3 was to remove all the splintered wood from neck and socket, clean out all the damage and PVA, glue a thin veneer to the sides of the socket and maple facings to the sides of the neck, and glue it back together. Then fit screws as for option 2, which would be a backup rather than the primary source of strength in the joint. For me, none of these options made economic sense given the value of the bass. No idea why there's a 90 degree notch. It looks as though it was done at the time of the previous repair. In the bottom picture you can see an extension of the saw cuts. the only thing I can think of is that the original cap was part of the back, and it splintered off when the original failure happened.

No, it was repeated in 1982 and that was the last time.

Looks like a job for Suzie Fletcher on the Repair Shop.