andydye

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1378208547' post='2196989'] Probably something similar to those on my cream bass above. The knobs are a simple vol/treb/bass (although the circuit is quite complex) and the switches go > single/series/OMG mode (neck pup) > circuit select neck/both/bridge > series/parallel (bridge pup) [/quote] So the knobs do v/t/b but in a passive bass? oo'er!

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1378206610' post='2196945'] Losing the L-2000 active pre is not a bad idea if your after a more chilled P bass type tone. My other main gigger uses a modern MFD (passive) out of an L-2000 but sounds almost exactly like the Wunkay. I have it with a reversed P pup (also G&L) but almost always only use the neck pup. There you go. You've sussed it. Or you could wire the bridge pup up like an L-1500 and have your choice of old G&L basses. [/quote] So, what would the controls need to do in order to have the L1000 from the middle pup and the L1500 from the bridge pup? This could be a really useful project! [quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1378206340' post='2196938'] The only harsh top end I've ever had is when the "treble boost" switch is engaged, which sounds horrible to me. Other than that, I haven't heard this harshness you have described. You can switch the preamp off. I rarely use it and have my L-2000 running passive all the time. No harshness here, but your ears are different to mine [/quote] [quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1378206674' post='2196947'] I think he meant that whole "P bass on steroids" tone... which to be fair won't be everyone's taste. [/quote] My previous experience of active G&Ls has been (USA 2x L2000, an L2500 an L1505 and a tribby JB-2) that with either of the treble settings on the pre it has a harsh top end that realy grates on my ears an ddoesn't sound at all pleasing, this renders a bunch of the options on the pre useless (to me) and reduces the versatility of the bass, if however I were to modify one to make it more useable and also to remove the treble problem then that'd be worth doing as the wood & hardware parts of the G&L are absolutely top notch!

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1378203925' post='2196896'] Yep spot on. The neck pup is give or take a mil pretty much in the same spot as the wunkay. Me and Neepheid compared our respective G&Ls. I wish we'd done pics now. And ta. [/quote] Does it still have that characteristic harsh G&L top end or does removing the preamp and having a passive wiring loom sweeten it to a more p-bass type thing? There'd be a few unsightly holes in the body too Although...keep both pups, rewire it to be V/V/T and rewire 2 switches to be coil selectors (one for each pup)...that might have possibilities and only leaves one teeny hole in the body!

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1378203203' post='2196875'] Yep. And old ones are increasingly hard to come by now. Although there are ways around it - [b]the L-2000 is close and can be modified in the right direction[/b]. I have a '80 L-1000 in my collection and use it as inspiration to build a bit of Wunkay into all my own personal use basses. My latest present to myself is letting everything else I gig or noodle with just gather dust. It's not even finished yet but I've gigged it twice now. [/quote] Nice 'bass on sofa with puss' type shot matey! The L2000 can be modded to do the L1000? Is one of the pups in roughly the right place then? Keep one pup, rip out the electrics and go passive? ...interesting

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1378201604' post='2196851'] Well I thoroughly recommended you try one. You may end up eating that old sea boot. [/quote] It's a shame they're not a current production model isn't it Does anyone build a replica/reissue of them?

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1378133916' post='2196108'] This Pino Palladino Sig Precision on here at £2000. The best Precision, actually scratch that, the best bass I`ve ever played. http://basschat.co.uk/topic/216057-usa-fender-custom-shop-pino-palladino-p-bass/ [/quote] Yoda! This is fenders finest!

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1378124162' post='2195938'] Lakland 44-64. [url="http://www.lakland.com/44-64.htm"]http://www.lakland.com/44-64.htm[/url] [/quote] Never tried a passive lakland but I have loved both my 55-02, this is a definite possibility for a soon bass!

[quote name='grunge666' timestamp='1378139885' post='2196192'] G&L L2000 - try a tribute series and save a few quid! [/quote] I kinda like g&l, have had 2 usa l2000 basses and sold 'em cos I didn't like the harsh top end out of those pups... what I want is a passive p that looks like a p but oozes quality unlike a fender...?

Following on from this thread: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/214852-my-p-bass-is-a-jedi-master/page__fromsearch__1"]http://basschat.co.u...__fromsearch__1[/url] which was about how versatile and 'right' sounding the p-bass is but how this one brand makes a much better p bass than a vintage fender... I'm curious to know... If I was looking for a rosewood fingerboard, alder body p-bass, passive, 4 string but without any of the usual Fender foibles (dead spots, neck dive, inconsistent sound, iffy q.a. etc etc) where should I look and what should I try...? Other requirements... It must be p-bass shaped! No relicing - this is something earned not produced in a factory! Budget would be anywhere between £200 and £2000 to leave the playing field nice & open

Alan (Mr ACG maker) will be at the Manchester Bass Lounge on the evening of the 11th Sept, email the bass lounge to reserve a space, he'll have a bunch of his basses with him there, I've got 2, one custom and one graft but neither have the east 2 band pre so I can't comment on that. The necks are amazing! the zero radius is just better and the assymetric carve makes them really easy to play, I'd recommend coming along to the bass lounge that evening matey, meet Alan and get your mitts round a couple of basses too...

Derrey very kindly took my broken e855 off my hands to have a play with. very swift and pain free transaction, recommended bc'er, thanks buddy!

Great to see tom again and another effortless bc transaction! Seriously great bloke, his only flaw so far is that he's so good to chat to I got in bother with the wife for taking so long!

Here's Billy demonstrating a couple of the solo parts with great humility http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8pbqGvef0dM

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1377881753' post='2193241'] Awesome [/quote] ...and there was much jubilation

[quote name='MB1' timestamp='1377881788' post='2193243']MB1. Fnarr Fnarr! What about the seized truss rod? [/quote] I dub thee 'innuendo-mod'

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1377853395' post='2192678'] That's a shame. It's worth a go with the WD I suppose but be careful not to get too overzealous with it as it can leach through the wood under the finish and look nasty. [/quote] I dribbled a drop or two of silicon lube around the periphery of the nut and after a moment and a brief waggle it freed up rather nicely

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1377812803' post='2192391'] If it's safe to do so without singeing anything, you could try holding the tip of a soldering iron on it for a bit to expand the metal. [/quote] Thanks matey, it's a bit too embedded in the end of the neck for that I think I did find this: "Loosen the strings, or take them off. Loosen the truss nut if you can. If not, put a drop or two of PB Blaster penetrating oil on the truss nut, let sit for a day. If the problem is the truss itself is seized inside the neck, you'll need to loosen the truss all the way, stand the guitar on it's head (assuming the truss adjustment nut is inside) and put a few drops of (or a very short spray) of silicone lubricant so it runs down (up) the length of the truss inside the neck. Let it stand up (or stand on it's head) for a day.With the truss relaxed inside the neck, the silicone should coat the truss and truss channel, and free it up. Sometimes it's a matter of the truss being improperly installed." Thoughts?

Help needed from the wealth of bc knowledge... Today I landed a wicked little cheapy dean custom zone bass, everything was sweet until I tried to adjust the truss rod... Intonation, electrics etc are all spot on it's just the truss rod that won't adjust, at all, either up or down, tighten or loosen, I corkscrewed my allen key in the process! Does anyone have any ideas how to free up a seized truss rod please?