LukeFRC

[quote name='stevetut' timestamp='1408463317' post='2530449'] Just wanted to share pictures of my T40. I bought it last year from Ken Achard; it was presented to Ken by Hartley Peavey..... Made of magnolia, no scratchplate, figured maple neck and serial no 007. It is immaculate and apart from some setting up plays perfectly. I play it every day..... [/quote] lovely! does it weigh more or less made of magnolia?

how much bottom end do you need? schroder would be loud

theres a really rare 5th anniversary one that Warwickhunt has. It's not a double P but cheaper secondhand and I think it would possibly be able to reasonably get close sound wise is the corvette (or streamer) $$, Supposed to be good basses too. Other than that a Vampyre with duel P pups, they will build you one but at a cost! You might be cheepers finding a secondhand vampyre or even the rock bass version and paying a luthier to pup the dual P pups in. If you need the hellborg preamp part of the sound ......

we're doing it to stop your GAS discreet!

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1389222189' post='2331697'] One of the reasons why tweeters and electric bass are not a match made in heaven is that most tweeters don't do much below 4kHz, while added zing is really needed above 2.5kHz. That's with rounds; with flats there's no need for any assistance, even at 2.5kHz. But tweeters capable of going to 2.5kHz, and the crossovers that are necessary to go with them, are more expensive, so they're seldom employed. I wouldn't use tweeters with flats, and when shopping for a cab for rounds I'd be sure that the 2.5kHz range is covered by the tweeter or a midrange driver. [/quote] I must admit I went and looked at the SPL charts you've made for your cabs to see if you did that yourself! as much as i can read SPL charts it looks like it.

but would also say somethings are worth paying for. Truss rod problems, frets and bike wheel balancing

did you slacken the strings off? I tend to stand behind the bass, hold the body still with my knees and then gently pull the headstock back then tighten it. I just presume that it's not designed for one to try to use the threads of the truss as a ratchet system .

[quote name='andydye' timestamp='1408080643' post='2526855'] I think the suggestion is that you'd know why it's wrong after just 1 listen to it? [/quote] I didn't know if it was "one listen and you'll know if it works" or "one listen and you'll understand why it doesn't work" . [quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1408082953' post='2526864'] Only the expense. There are several threads on using pa speakers as bass speakers and if you like the sound of DId bass then these speakers should hadle this as well as any. It is still a 1x12 though, so enough for some people but not everyone. Try before you buy though. [/quote] cheers, I may try and find someplace to try that. I would be comparing it to a 1x12 setup anyway.

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1408057586' post='2526816'] One listen through... [/quote]que?

odd off topic question..... say I went and bought a RCF HD12a.... what would stop that (and a preamp) working as a powered bass cab?

Half an inch can make quite a big difference, so I hear

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1407874544' post='2524996'] I've got a headless system which I've been itching to put to use.....this may be just what it's been waiting for.. [/quote]nah fix it, it's a nice bass.... deserves not to be butchered!

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1407492515' post='2521041'] Bill is of course absolutely right about this. The interesting thing is about what the implications are for us as bassists. If you want a single speaker to do the job for you then you have to have something engineered for high volume displacement. This usually has a cost in terms of efficiency or a large exotic and expensive magnet system. The other thing is that doubling the number of drivers gives you 3dB of extra sensitivity. 6dB if your amp can maintain the voltage swing. Go to an 8x10 and you have a potential 12dB of sensitivity or 9dB at the same wattage. Although this comes at the cost of the speakers radiation interfering with each other to make a lumpy bumpy frequency response and radiation pattern. This extra efficiency means that your system is using much less power. 3db is half the power and 10db a tenth. So instead of 400W into an exotic lightweight you might be using 40W into an 8x10 for the same sound level, and only 5W into each of the eight speakers. If you are using the same amp it is going to run cooler and maintain its output, it is also much less likely to distort because of peaks in your playing. More importantly probably the speakers will run cool, 400W into a tiny coil trapped in a tiny air space inside a magnet does get very hot. Speakers running consistently high powers run very hot and the resistance of the coil rises reducing the speakers output so the sound changes as they warm up. Of course this is only one variable, there are many other differences to take into consideration but there are distinct advantages in multiple speakers vertically stacked. [/quote] most interesting post i've read for a long time.

what you got to loose? (about £300)

it's not a C bass though, I think it's standard scale.

my thought exactly! would you fix it yourself or pay someone else to? I am tempted, matlock isn't far...

I picked up an old peavey t40 in it's original case a few years back for less than one went for... some makes just don't seem to sell well, old japanese Yamaha's can be picked up for stupid low money too... Yamaha, Peavey, some of the older washburns.... there's some bargains out there.