LukeFRC

actually mate. I have a real problem with this.... first the above is the first post you have made on here. What's your motive man? Is it just trolling, or just wanting to vent about something? second. you're not asking for advice. You make statements and you video is just slagging them off. third. you don't seem to understand how a maple fretboard neck is made, and the techniques for finishing it. You could come on and ask people, and there are many builders who could tell you - but no instead 'overwater are the only people stupid enough to make a bass like this' (I paraphrase) fourth. - and this is the main one for me. How old is this bass? It comes across that it's a new bass that you had made and aren't happy with. And in which case take it back..... except it's not is it? Theres a video a year old on your youtube channel with the same bass being played. And fantastically you seem to have no problem with the first fret back then. so tell us, how old is the bass. and more importantly have you, or anyone else, had any work done to it since it left the factory? cos to me it looks like it's had a fret dressing or two... which of course makes the frets lower and closer to the laquare... and would possibly explain why it sounded fine a year ago. And the answer to your next question is yes, refreting a maple board costs more as the neck has to be relaqured. and that's true of any make. If I ground the frets of my P bass down to speed bumps I hardly think it's the fault of the japanese guys who made it 30 years ago is it?

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1332613055' post='1590763'] James - I do hope you get sorted, but I think putting a vid on YouTube without giving Overwater a chance to respond first is very uncool. Just sayin'. [/quote] +1 it's a custom instrument, you're not happy with it, for a good reason- so send it back to them and talk to them about it. Have you done that... if so carry on down that route. Why on earth do you need to go on youtube and basschat talking about it? It's fairly standard i think on maple necks that you laquar over the frets and then take it off. They've cocked up one stage. I was interested in overwater's pickups and emailed them about it. Within 2 days I had had a email conversation with one of the guys there followed up by another email from Chris May. Pretty impressive really, I would love to have enough money to buy a bass from them. So I don't doubt for a moment that they will not want to bend over backwards to help you, and correct any mistakes they may have made. I guess the only way that super helpfulness and the fun of talking to them would be damaged would be if a customer started acting like a dick.... oops too late

http://basschat.co.uk/topic/167113-fender-mij-non-export-62ri-jazz-premium-model-l500/page__p__1586287__hl__jazz__fromsearch__1#entry1586287

not being funny... but isn't this challenge "can we find a decent jazz or jazz copy for £500" to which the answer is yes. I don't get what the challenge is.

that warwick one is pretty pricy

[quote name='Prosebass' timestamp='1332498730' post='1589075'] Well said that man I am sure the new fenderish AGC's will be an option for many as well. Come on guys buy British , you know you want to. [/quote] +1

how soon is soon?

My warwick has one of the barrel jacks you are praising so much. And you know what, if it were possible I would add a regular jack instead.... the sprung nature of the design means you get better contact. Pushing or knocking the cable in the wrong way can make the warwick loose it's signal- with a pop through my amp. Also if say for some reason out of a lot use it starts not making contact properly... I can't do much to fix it. The older design however lets me get in and push the contacts closer so they work again. So as a designer I would go for the standard jack. (My Taki acoustic has the end pin/jack socket- that's an exception as that works brilliantly. )

actually just found your blog post about it. still interesting in thoughts but my old ones pups were more in jazz type positions!

[quote name='FlatEric' timestamp='1332364985' post='1587437'] For what it's worth. . . . I have one of these. [url="http://flatericbassandguitar.blogspot.co.uk/2010/10/status-groove.html"]http://flatericbassa...tus-groove.html[/url] A really great bass - £ for £ worth WAY more!!!!!!!! Love mine to bits and I paid (some years ago) £400 + Somebody give this a decent home! Cheers. [/quote] which version shark do you have and how do they compare? my first bass was a shark 2 pup 2 band pre.

it's like premiership football clubs with replica kits a bit isn't it? at £1300 you're starting to get to the point where a custom build is better.... you know small luthiers have way way lower profit margins than fender...

find a friend with drill skills. Don't forget the diameter of the big hole will need to be the same too.

[quote name='ahpook' timestamp='1332340223' post='1586912'] define 'give' [/quote] selling it to me for £250? that would count as giving!

[quote name='solo4652' timestamp='1332245507' post='1585383'] I've exchanged emails with the seller. I specifically asked him if the crack was in the body, or just in the paint on the surface. He said: " the crack in the body is about 4 inches long and hasn't got any worse since i've owned the guitar (which is over 2 years), it's a mystery to me why it's there, my theory is it was left somewhere hot, who knows, i think that answers all your questions, feel free to ask any more." [/quote] which avoids answering the question![quote name='ahpook' timestamp='1332189354' post='1584630'] i prolly would if i didn't have a t-bass !! [/quote] if you gave me your t bass then you could!

so the new ones will just have better pups in them...

ooh a new way of putting the price up?