fretmeister

For me 40Hz is a freq to cut when the room is boomy.

I really like TI flats but unfortunately they are nickel so I can't use them.

Seems like they will be delivered today! I'll put them on over the weekend.

Thank you both very much!

I nearly went for that combo, but as I have a couple of heads I like to use I wasn't quite ready to take that plunge. If MB ever put a good compressor into that combo then I'd be all over it. It would be the perfect 1 hand carry rig then. For 99% of the time I don't need my pedal board but I end up taking it because of the compressor.

I dunno - I love the food from both of those regions! Difficult choice indeed!

I've seen the nut differences on the Fender site - but I can't see any mention of bridge spacing. I've got a Lionel with IIRC 19mm and a couple of Jim Deacons which are 16mm or 16,5mm and I like them for different things. I like the really tight spacing for plectrum work. If it's not too much hassle - next time you play the JMJ could you take a photo of the bridge showing a ruler next to the saddles?

I've ordered some La Bella Low Tension Flats to try. I've been curious about them for a while so hopefully I like them!

I did use GHS Pressurewounds for quite a while for 4 string basses but their B string was really bad. I moved away from them but these days as I've developed a nickel allergy I couldn't try them again anyway.

Does anyone know what the bridge string spacing is on a Fender Mustang? And is it the same on all of them? I'm having such cravings for a JMJ and I've never even been in a room with one.

Mine doesn't exist and I don't have the funds to have it built. It would be a 32 scale 5 string. 44.5mm nut. 22 frets. 17.5mm bridge spacing. Slim neck like a ray5. Modern pickup placement similar to a Marleaux consat 5 where the bridge pickup is close 2 the bridge and the neck one is really just beyond where a ray pickup would be. Simple 3 band EQ but also with a passive tone as well so it can have old fashioned roll off. Probably headless with a good clamp system so any strings can be used. Body shape starting point would be the Marleaux Betra headless - but chop a little out of it to make it narrower across the body. Judging by the Marleaux price list I think I'd need £7000-£10,000 to get that built by them.

As the old joke goes Fender Mexican instruments made in Mexico by Mexicans Fender American instruments made in America by Mexicans. Local overheads are always the most important part of the price of an item.

I have an older one that just has a headphone / recording out. I've used that into recording interfaces and into PA systems before and I thought it sounded excellent. The only downside was there was no sound from the internal speaker that way. I've had it for maybe 15 years and I still think it sounds brilliant.

Mixing different pedals can cause problems if powered on a daisy chain, but that is certainly the cheapest place to start. If you do get odd noises then you'll need something with separate isolated outputs. That's when it starts getting expensive. If you do end up needing that, then in my experience it's better to bite the bullet and buy something good - just once. Rather than buying something a little better and then needing something else etc etc. My mini board has a Truetone CS6 that has 6 outputs with some being able to be set at 12V or 18V if needed. It's one of the only power supplies that will fit under a PedalTrain Nano board. My big board has a Cioks DC7. That is a superb bit of kit and they also have an expansion pack to give more isolated outputs if needed. It's worth noting that you can still use a daisy chain on an isolated power supply as long as the total current draw on that individual output doesn't exceed the supply on it. I power 8 pedals on my DC7 that way - I have 2 lower draw pedals on a small daisy chain cable from a single output.

It’s great, lovely and warm sounding. I didn’t know what to expect from the drive circuit but it’s really good. I’ve taken 2 drive pedals off my board now!

Nobody?

I added this to it today to get some warmer tones than my AG1000 can do and it’s ace. Just been playing most of the day, getting lost in the rhythm.

I'm not talking about high output driving later things - just if there is design possible to be inherently dirty. Taking an opposite design culture of EMGs - instead of making super clean, try to encourage the flaws of "warm" sounding pickups.

That's lovely!

I might send an email or two to some pickup makers and ask.

As we know - things like EMGs are super clean and very well potted so the signal is pure and there's no microphony happening. They are advertised for those super clean and zero hum qualities. But what about the other end? What pickups seem to be inherently dirty sounding - but ideally still without hum? Not just a set of vintage accurate pickups, but is there something made to be dirty? Any ideas?

Don't forget that even on used items VAT can be payable on the way in.

Depends partly on the pickup. Exposed poles that stick out of the plastic can make a horrible clicking noise on the strings when playing hard. Others have really strong magnet pull so if they are too close it can cause a warbling effect on the sound. EMGs are smooth topped and have very low magnet pull so they can be as close as you want - for my J type I fret the strings at the 22nd fret and then raise the rear pickup so there is only 1mm clearance.