fretmeister

I wasn't aware of the extent of the incoming regulation. Thread on thefretboard - https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/276080/have-forums-reached-the-end-of-the-road/p1 Digitalscream is the owner of thefretboard.co.uk and he's done a deep dive into what the rules would mean - and that basically means the end of forums like this: This place, and thefretboard is very important to me. I'd hate for them to go. Does BC have a plan?

I shall be needing another one soon as well. Usual P bass. Might go for a 0.1uF cap this time - so it can get really dark. Mainly as this build will have stainless steel rounds on it. Got to at least try to get from Freddie Washington slap all the way down to Duck Dunn!

The neck for my parts build precision should arrive later today and I need to get some tuners. The neck is a genuine Fender Player series Jazz neck. I had planned on Hipshot Ultralite 1/2 inch Y keys as they are the lightest 1/2 inch option at 49g each. What else is there that is an easy / direct fit that won't need the tuner holes made larger or the use of a load of plumbers tape on narrower tuners to make them stable? I'm only looking at really lightweight options. I did see that the Gotoh Resolites are only 40g but I don't think they have suitable bushing sizes for a Fender bass.

Of course - I used to use a pair of Boss LS-2 for my set up and make sure they were next to each other on my board so I could hit them both at the same time if needed. It's a great idea to get some paper and draw out your signal chain - makes the wiring up process a lot easier.

If it's under the clear then I think you'd have to remove a little of that first, then get a close enough colour match with a sharpie or something and then do a superglue repair to fill the hole. Then polish it.

I really hope it's good. As you say - some very talented people. Fingers crossed and all that!

The endless ones on ebay might be good, or they might be a good way to waste a lot of money if they are crap. I might just take advantage of the seasonal Warmoth sale and get one that is already in stock. At the moment it won't work out any more expensive than a real Fender replacement neck.

Carpel tunnel syndrome and other hand injuries. It has really helped people with that sort of problem keep playing. It’s a brilliant invention.

I just bought Christian's P bass body. It arrived in quick time as described. Looking forward to assembling something suitably awesome with it. Thanks again.

They are very nice strings and I've never got less than 5 years out of a set, and even then that was my fault as I managed to kink a string and ruined it. La Bella make medium scale flats for 4 strings, but not for 5 unfortunately - even though they do short scale 5 string sets. We need a petition!

What bass is it? If it has large string posts then long scale flats will usually be fine as the post is big enough for the fat bit of the string to wrap ok. If they have small posts like on an Ibanez then you definitely need medium scale. I have a medium scale Ibby and the Dunlops were the only flats I found for it.

That's his very old rig from 13 years ago. He now uses a Helix for the drives / fx. The Helix will take to entirely different signals and can process them separately. Billy even lent his favourite Pearse Preamp to Line6 so they could model it and include it in the Helix for the rest of us too. He runs the helix into amp heads - often those Hartke ones, but sometimes whatever the local backline company has available, and into a bunch of Hartke 1x15 Hydrive cabs. Of course the cabs are really for onstage monitoring. The Helix can supply straight to Front of House at the same time as feeding the amps. It can even send different versions of the signal. So no cab sim to the amps and real cabs, but add cab sims on the feeds to FOH.

The parts for my P with a J neck project are slowly arriving. The last thing I need to get is a neck. There are loads of 20 fret Fender Jazz type necks about that will fit a standard Fender pocket but I would really like 21 frets if I can, just so I can have that high E. It's quite useful. Can anyone recommend a suitable neck? Already fretted and with a nut. I'd prefer not to spend Warmoth money if I don't have to. ta

I've done this with a Yamaha Attitude that has 2 outputs automatically and with a Status that I heavily modified to have 2 separate pickup systems. Different outputs on the bass going to different amps. My original rig for this was a Hartke HA3500 head with a Marshall VBC412 cab for the highs / FX, and an Ashdown MAG400H and another Marshall VBC412 cab for the lows. The highs had a wah, drive, phaser, filter, compressor. The lows had an octave and a compressor. With the Yamaha I used the neck pickup woofer to the the lows and the P to the highs. The status was JPJ and the P went to the lows and the J pair to the highs. The lows were EQ'd to be much like a neck pickup sound on an EB0, thick and plummy. The highs had boosted mids and a lot of low end cut so there was less competition for sonic space with the low amp. I later changed the rig to a rack set up. I had an Ampeg SVP-BSP preamp for the highs / drive that was also able to mix clean and dirty, and then a Line 6 Bass Pod XT for the lows, but that could also do a clean sound with whatever else. So effectively I had 4 different tones, blended in pairs. That lot went into a Yamaha P5000S power amp and into a pair of Hartke 2x12 cabs. I loved both versions of it. Being able to control the mix from the bass was brilliant. These days I tend to use just one rig with pedals that have clean blends but they really are not the same thing as getting a multiamp rig set up right. The secret is note decay. All the blended sounds must have the same note decay otherwise it sounds like different sounds rather than 1 complex one. Compression is the key - making the cleans decay as slow as the driven sounds. That needs a lot of fiddling to get right. It was completely awesome. If I had roadies I'd be all over it again.

This. I have both an Ashdown (RM800Evo2) and a Mark Bass and used them with Barefaced cabs for ages until I fancied a cab change. They both work very well and can sound thick and old school with sensible top end that isn't brittle / annoying.

There are plenty of examples of people educated in the area who nevertheless reject it.

The worst kind of click bait then.

Never heard of that for bass. Only for the expected.

I don’t think an oboe could do it either. That might be the only valid argument for 432 I’ve ever seen. Horrible sounding things!

There’s a huge amount of horseshit about 440 being “evil” and 432 being the natural harmonic of the universe. its bollocks. Tune to whatever reference pitch you like. Just don’t expect pianists, wind guys and just about any other traditional instrument player to invite you to play!

That would be good. They do seem to be on a release spree at the moment with the Klon and the Tone Bender over the last few weeks. Fingers crossed!