Ou7shined

I agree, it's not tapping for the sake of it. It's actually pretty integral to the overall sound. It works particularly well here because it is adding a dynamic to the song in the place of a passage that could easily have contained no actual bass at all - therefore the tapping part doesn't detract from or over complicate the tune it adds a complimentary layer.

That's pretty much it. Not too tight though, just until you get firm resistance. I like to do them back up in a diagonal cross pattern (comes from putting cylinder head bolts back in in their recommended order) to send them home with even pressure. Just be careful not to wreck the phillips heads.

Hi Paul. Sounds like you might be getting the best bit - Sabre necks were notoriously wonky. Nip over to the [url="http://www.ernieball.com/forums/music-man-basses/"]EB forums[/url] and you'll pick up most of what you need to know. They are rare and good ones are very sought after.... and I'm jealous already.

Go for it. Replacing knobs is a very easy job - you get screw on or push fit ones. Putting in new pups is easy too but requires some level of confidence with a soldering iron. Is your bass a PJ style?

If as you say there wasn't much movement in the first place, the superglue should hold for a fair old while. Woohoo!

[quote name='geoffbyrne' post='863706' date='Jun 10 2010, 09:00 PM']Maybe mix up some Araldite & get it under the join so it'll set the big tab solid - I don't think superglue will do this, but I'm sure Araldite will - bloody messy to use, tho'. G.[/quote] The beauty of superglue though is that having a lower viscosity, the capillary action draws it into whatever you are trying to glue.

No probs. Wow I've never seen that before. They are supposed to be crimped in place and sealed with the chroming process. A spot of superglue would work in the short term (maybe longer) as long as it's not extremely loose and the glue's not susceptible to breaking by tuning. But yeah that's more like a faulty part that should be replaced rather than something that needs a tweak.

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='863562' date='Jun 10 2010, 06:23 PM']Thanks for the reply Rich. No, none of that will help. I "think" its the actual cloverleaf part thats vibrating. Holding the post makes no difference but holding the cloverleaf stops it....[/quote] Yeah I got that. Have you tried putting the Vaseline under here... ... to fill the gap between the post and it's cowling. I've had this happen to me before but I just can't remember what I did to alleviate it. I'm sure it was just a bit of squeezing and twisting and it just stopped. If you took the tuner off and bent it just the tiniest bit at the points indicated above I'm sure it would catch it.

Does tightening the big screw help? Or putting more of a bend in the wee thin plate under the cog? Maybe a bit of Vaseline on the threaded part will stop it rattling so much.

That's more like it. Loved the guy with the spanner. Found this after your recommendation. The guys tone is shot but omg to his playing.

Great stuff faceman. Wow what a tune that Santa Fe is! I'd never heard it 'til this morning. To start with I couldn't keep up but it's just basically bar chords and widdely bits (can you tell I have no musical theory? ) but now I'm bopping along nicely. I'm loving the "Sorry" groove - older readers will remember the Ronnie Corbet sitcom.

It's almost certainly a refin.... and not a very good one at that - see the little chip at the rear of the control plate that's been painted over. That Sting ^ looks a snip. I traded mine (proper non Sting '51) on with a net trade value of £475 which I considered bloody lucky to get, however it was immaculate, shielded out, re-vamped 'lectrics and set up to my high standards so top dollar was right.

[quote name='Prime_BASS' post='862795' date='Jun 10 2010, 12:18 AM']...I thought about just copying it, but the only access is through the f holes and I don't want to start taking it to pieces to find I can't get back in, god knows how they do it in the factories...[/quote] Yeah I can see that it would be tight especially the jack socket but you only need to get the VariTone out (through the pup hole) and it's possibly the easiest bit to reach and put back.

Nice look. I wish I'd had the balls to do that to mine when I had it rather than keep it mint - although an antique white would have been more my choice.

Is it a VariTone control or something? Sounds like a good idea. If you already have a JC sig why not just copy it's internals?

Probably not I forgot that it's probably vol vol tone. Still it could be the respective vol pot that's at fault.

Could it be that the J pup's wiring is shorted out somewhere? Inspect the length of the wires and even the pup windings if that's possible. A pic of the innards might be helpful. Worst case scenario is that the pup has died (not very likely but possible) and simply dropping in a replacement would fix it. Your blend pot could also be a suspect.

Just to add to my highly erudite and informative post earlier , I believe Jon mainly equips his necks with dual action truss rods as standard.

Jon's necks are the absolute shiz.

C'est la vie.

I'd be interested in the big muff.

I used the bairn's crayons.

[quote name='Musicman20' post='861596' date='Jun 8 2010, 10:28 PM']The end is pretty nice as well. Check out 'The Horse' if you like the tapping. Great track and serious skill![/quote] Yeah the end was sweet too. I just get bored with that speed-metal "blat blat blat blat" drumming these days - it's too much like what I was into as a kid. If the drummer was more dynamic then I'd be right into all of this. I can't find the Horse track.

Come to think of it guys maybe I was a little hasty earlier. Reading all the posts in this thread (bar mine) I realise that I was wrong and that pink really is for men. Right I'm off down the pub. Bye-eeeee!

That intro was awesome. The rest didn't blow my fringe back much but I appreciate the skill.