Ou7shined

You too. Have fun. You need to earth each section of shielding so that it acts as a sort of faraday cage. I prefer a belt and braces approach and solder each piece of foil despite it having conductive glue (apparently). Here's a pic of when I did my SUB as an example of the "science bit". [attachment=51980:SUB_shielding_3.jpg] With multi cavitied basses you have to earth each one which ultimately of course goes to your main earth.

If you bought it you would likely make a few bucks parting it out - as long as you weren't looking to shift it straight away. As for doing it up I think at the end of the day it's potentially more hassle than it's worth (I'm sure you're thinking this already Paul) because unless you're gonna keep it, if you can't find an original neck it will still be a bitsa thus not as valuable as all originals. It would be great for someone as a keeper that's not bothered about selling it on - and who knows a real neck might turn up sometime. IMHO

I'm down with the foil too, although I use sheets rather than tape so there are less joins. I think you can be more sure that you have 100% coverage with foil + you can just solder each cavity to earth it.

It's had a bit of a journey. I originally got it for Betty (sig) which I'd built from scratch out of an old early '80s Encore Coaster but I found an original Fender '51 pup and surprisingly it suited Betty better so the Lollar then went into my CIJ '51 P replacing the modern sounding SD it came with. I sold the '51 P which I kindly put Betty's '51 pup into for the buyer. But this was just after I got my lovely lovely Shuker and of course it deserved the very best so in went the Lollar and that's where it will stay, pumping out major P-ness. F'nar. I took the Shuker along to the last Moffat Bash where there are mainly uber-basses on show (I'd taken the CIJ '51 P to the previous one and the lack of enthusiasm for it was palpable) and as I was setting it up for a jam you could see the nonplussed "heard it" looking faces (and quite rightly so) but as I started playing eyebrows raised. She has an unmistakable trad P voice but it is fuller more powerful with an open dynamic compared to any other single coil P I have tried - and there have been a few. The status Hotwire flats are a major factor too. I can't wait to hear your review of your Lollar as my standard one already sounds plenty hot. By the sounds of it yours will have the ability to shatter planets.

He he I still remember the excitement of when mine arrived. I love my Lollar.

I'm GAS free for deffo regarding amps & cabs. I'll be using this rig until I run it into the ground. :wub: As for basses my nirvana is and always was Stingray but unfortunately the sound doesn't always sit well with the different styles of music I play. Sooooo I built something that covers most of if not all those bases. The amazing Pingray! I'm focused on funk/rock at the moment so I'm back on the Stingray for writing. I suspect I'll be gigging this material with the Pingray although I could easily go with the 'ray too. I can't say I'm GAS free on the bass front as my hobby is building/modding guitars so I'm always on the look out for the next victim but my personal playing needs are certainly fulfilled at the moment.

[quote name='Johnston' post='864942' date='Jun 12 2010, 09:41 AM']So whats it really worth?? Did someone get a bargain?[/quote] For sure. If it's kosher, it's worth at least double of what it went for.

And it's gone. Who did it?

I think he's serious about selling it - we have pics, description and a serial now. MIJ 1988 - 1989 If you're in Lincoln pull the trigger.

Looks like a Precision to me.

[quote name='algmusic' post='864442' date='Jun 11 2010, 03:48 PM']my J pickup on my fender jazz aerodyne is a but lively.. could I do the same on mine?[/quote] I don't see why not. You could push the boat out and do the control cavity too if it hasn't already been done.

No probs. You can pick up the tape or sheets if you prefer off ebay. Fitting is self-explanatory but you should make sure that each cavity is earthed - the stuff solders like a dream.

A quick search turned up some guys that have the same amp. Here's 2 of them, perhaps shoot 'em a friendly PM to see if they could have a squint in the backs of theirs. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=90983&hl=Ampeg+SVT-6+Pro"]1[/url] [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=89989&hl=Ampeg+SVT-6+Pro"]2[/url] These were just the first 2 there are plenty more.

Is it shielded out? I found it worked really well and saved me the expence of new pups. My '70's classic.

Not much help are we. The reason I say just leave it as is, is that I don't believe you can (under the correct conditions) permanently affect the relief on a neck with the tr. If the neck is lightly adjusted then it's effect while dormant will be negligible IMHO. If the neck has had some major adjustment applied to it to get it playable and you release the tension for storage, you're just going to have to reapply that tension again to get it playable again - only it could take days to get right again. I have a bunch of necks lying around and none of them had the tr slackened off and I've never had a problem. Admittedly, it feels right to say that to err on the side of caution you should slacken it off but as I say it hasn't mattered with me. It's a judgement call really.

I'm not sure of the correct protocol on this either but I say leave the tr alone, take the neck off, wrap it up safely and leave it and who knows when you come to use it again maybe it will return to it's original under compression from strings state without any need for massive adjustment. Protect it from extreme conditions - cold, heat, damp etc.

I personally don't but they are highly recommended on this site by those that have.

[quote name='dlloyd' post='864187' date='Jun 11 2010, 11:39 AM']I'd say they're both ash... just different trees.[/quote] That's amazing, they're like chalk and cheese. My 'ray's grain is somewhere between the both.

Uh? Well that's not gonna work when you can get a brand new proper '51 P job for just £60 more. :wacko:

I'm actually not sure about using Vaseline on wood. I think it would permeate the wood creating a wet bond rather than forming a lubricated barrier. I prefer to use wax (candle, crayon, bee's) or as was posted here the other day soap works too.

[quote name='Shaggy' post='864143' date='Jun 11 2010, 10:54 AM'].. Very “Fender-ish” in feel (more like a P than a J), so instantly familiar feel to most players. Nice fast neck...[/quote] They were actually available with a choice of J or P width necks as well as maple or rw although the choice was limited by date. [quote name='Shaggy' post='864143' date='Jun 11 2010, 10:54 AM'].....Basic tone is fairly unsubtle “old school” – not a hi-fi bass...[/quote] From what I read this seems to be the most contentious point with Sabres. The prices they command are based more upon desirability, rarity, pedigree and good looks rather than a great tone.

[quote name='dlloyd' post='864135' date='Jun 11 2010, 10:49 AM']Maybe also a clear pickguard like this one:[/quote] Sweet. I prefer the grain on the other one though. I wonder what wood it is? They are obviously very different.

That bottom one is gorgeous - just needs some frets and p/g screws.

I'm sure a man of your talents will make it fit if it doesn't. [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230446385172&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2F%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp3984.m570.l1313%26_nkw%3D230446385172%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1"]This[/url] body was on the bay a wee while ago. I wonder if it's the same one?