Ou7shined

[quote name='Count Bassy' post='1315957' date='Jul 25 2011, 05:08 PM']Just curious as to why you didn't do the sides of the control cavity in the top photo?[/quote] I'd run out of foil when I took the pic. Also this was project based around the G&L L-1000 internals which only has a copper plate in the control cavity. As seen here...

[quote name='neepheid' post='1315551' date='Jul 25 2011, 11:21 AM']It won't fit if the case is too rigidly Jazz shaped - the L-2000 body is much more like a Precision than a Jazz (no offset waist). It's not a good enough reason not to get an L-2000 though - if it doesn't fit then just get another case [/quote] Have you actually tried this out with yours Matt? ... hang on I bet you don't even have a Jazz case, as you can't stand girly jazzes. I just tried my L-1000 (which I believe the L-2000 is almost identical to - dimensionally) in a very snug fitting Kinsman Jazz hardcase and it went in perfectly... didn't get stuck or rattle about or anything.

I'm just going to briefly stick my neb into this fascinating discussion and bugger off again (I don't want to have the same argument with the same people ) I'm from the "rear strap button being raised" camp. My proof? ... note the strap button note the playing angle Cheers over and out.

That textured Blackburst is one of my all time favourite finishes.... and I don't even like black.

Here's the standard dimensions off the SD site.... sorry they are in old money....

Post the dimensions of your pups and we'll compare.

Is it really far out? Perhaps a round [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-PIECE-ASSORTED-NEEDLE-FILE-SET-SOFT-GRIP-HANDLES-/250648219622?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3a5bcc4fe6"]needle file[/url] would be able to open the hole up enough - these bridges are seldom made of toughened metal.

[quote name='spinynorman' post='1313749' date='Jul 23 2011, 12:59 PM']That's a lovely job, but you're an artist. [/quote] Cheers man. The devil's in the detail, and all that.

Drill a hole big enough to get a hacksaw blade into and just hold it in your hand. A Dremel cutting wheel is a better option (what I do). Whatever, just cut it a few mil too small and open it out with a file and sandpaper. HTH.

I doubt that's your problem. It sounds more like a grounding issue.

[quote name='Marky L' post='1313523' date='Jul 23 2011, 08:28 AM']Oh matron!! Actually, I've just got a neck back from a friend who nitro laquered it for me but he said I just need to give it a final rub down to bring up the shine. He did mention what to use, but I forgot and now he's out of the country and I don't want to hassle him. Advice?? Ta.[/quote] If he's rubbed it back ready to cut then that's fine but if you've got it back and the last step he "completed" was just spraying it, then you'll have to rub it back to flatten it yourself first - there's absolutely no point cutting it if it's not flat. Not knowing what grade he got it up to, I'm guessing this wasn't a pro job or he would have finished it properly for you, then 1000+ (wet) might be worth a pop. I take mine up to 1500 before my final buff.

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='1312520' date='Jul 22 2011, 11:21 AM']Oddly enough I've got my Estate car on ebay at the moment and a bidder has come along and bid the car up in the silliest small increments possible and as of today I have something like 80 bids with 95% of the bids coming from this one guy! I know for a fact that to the wary buyer this will look like shill bidding and I am wondering whether the bidder has deliberately/strategically done this to put others off by making it appear like shill bidding... I've hence contacted the guy and asked if he wants to view the car to be sure it is worth further bids ( ), however he has said that he lives in Birmingham and he's happy to wait till the auction ends before driving to Northumberland for the car! [/quote] I sense he may let you down if he's the winning bid.

[quote name='spinynorman' post='1312627' date='Jul 22 2011, 12:32 PM']I think you can over do it. One bass I had came with copper tape everywhere, including the back of the pickups, and earthing wire from all the pots and the tape on the pickups to the tape in the cavity. It was a mess, made doing anything very difficult, and the bass sounded sh*te. I took all the added wires out and much of the tape, and it was better. There were other problems as well, like one of the pickups being wired backwards, but the pickups were humbuckers anyway, so why all that stuff was put in was beyond me.[/quote] If it's done wrong you can certainly muck up the overall capacitance of the bass which will do horrid things to the sound. But done correctly and with attention to detail there's no reason not to shield out the entire bass. I'm sure I've posted these before but here are a couple of mine....

It seems to me that the best thing to do to would be not to let go of the neck while you are playing it.

[quote name='chilievans' post='1312438' date='Jul 22 2011, 10:20 AM']Lol.[/quote] [quote name='bubinga5' post='1312499' date='Jul 22 2011, 11:06 AM']oh thats what we do is Muck.. modding is getting to know bass..[/quote] You don't need to tell me that BB (it's how I make a living... well try to) But there's a bit of a difference between "mucking about" with a sub £400 beater bass and a luthier built instrument. The OP has had a narrow escape with his one once already.

Looks like a Schaller 3D.... ..... and more fake mojo.

Dude stop mucking about with that Shuker. (unless you check with Jon first)

[quote name='Johnston' post='1311960' date='Jul 21 2011, 07:43 PM']Me too I was being sarcastic. I failed [/quote] No mate I failed. I was in two minds whether to high-five your sarcasm or do the smart-arse answer. I choosed bad.

[quote name='Johnston' post='1311837' date='Jul 21 2011, 06:01 PM']Give them a break they are obviously new (0) feedback. Nothing untoward going on there I'm sure.[/quote] To my mind 0 feedback and oddness = shill.

[quote name='thebrig' post='1311601' date='Jul 21 2011, 02:53 PM']Well sort of, the P I built was using a Squier Vintage Modified body, which is the same as the MIA & MIM. I have heard that the neck pocket on the Affinity models are slightly different, and need some modding.[/quote] It wouldn't be a problem for a man of you calibre I'm sure.