Ou7shined

[quote name='icastle' post='1317571' date='Jul 26 2011, 08:07 PM']...or bringing down low flying aircraft... [/quote] It has other uses too..... [quote name='flyfisher' post='1317578' date='Jul 26 2011, 08:12 PM']I've not seen one like that before but it seems like a very good feature. What make is it?[/quote] It's all locked away in the workshop for now but I'll check that for ya tomorrow. It [b]is[/b] a good feature but where they've put the button you sometimes hit it by mistake... I've not killed anything yet though.

Good score. It will most likely be set up (to perfection) for drop C. If you plan on taking this seriously, you should probably have it re-set-up when you switch to a more standard tuning.... by a reputable guitar tech - not by the local bodger or your local guitar shop.

Indeed. I thought you were a Fender guy Si?

Mine has a smart wee button that shoots it up to 130w in the blink of an eye. Handy for casings.

[quote name='ash' post='1317369' date='Jul 26 2011, 05:33 PM']Hi both basses are mine and in as you can see they are both very much open to offers! The Jazz was on here but no interest, the problem with the Jazz is just lacquer cracking the neck is lovely. The Grabber could be a bit of fun for someone and was a 'speculative' ie cheeky BIN but again open to offers - if you read the ad it says that the neck/tuners are thrown in for free I just had it knocking around so it could be a good template for a new neck or stripped and refinished and used. I bought the body from the US and it cost me a few quid and quite a bit to import it, the other parts were from a defunct Grabber that somebody had taken a hatchet to....I was going to part the lot out but thought someone might fancy a challenge![/quote] Whoops I'll remove my post.

[quote name='bremen' post='1317262' date='Jul 26 2011, 04:23 PM']Sorry, Ou7, I'm not following you around just so I can disagree with you, but as Pickle says you need a fair bit of heat for lead-free solder and 25W is the bare minimum. I use one of these for general repairs: [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/50w-solder-station-35016"]http://www.maplin.co.uk/50w-solder-station-35016[/url] word of warning though - it puts a horrible amount of noise onto the mains so switch it off while you're recording. Took me hours to track down the buzz til I found this out.[/quote] Thanks, I wonder how it is then that I can (on an almost daily basis) solder lead free with my tiddely 25w iron?

Anything up to 25w will see you ok.

[quote name='Johnston' post='1317094' date='Jul 26 2011, 02:16 PM']Surely though if it has broken along the scarf joint, it's the glue that has let go and some decent glue will sort it?? (Only assuming as it looks so clean except for the veneer on the headstock. )[/quote] Possibly, it's hard to tell from that angle but the bit jutting out from next to the nut looks like the tip of the joint to me.

If it were mine I'd do this..... Horses for courses though eh.

[quote name='Dave Vader' post='1316912' date='Jul 26 2011, 12:42 PM']Okay, but if it was a similar aged Fender in that condition it would probably be a great deal more no?[/quote] It's hard to say mate (I don't really get the vintage Fender thing) but I once bought a '70s Fender P body off here for £30-40 ... ok yes it wasn't being sold as such and turned out to have been modified but it was a scoop.

[quote name='Dave Vader' post='1316911' date='Jul 26 2011, 12:41 PM']Not as much fun though, especially if the other option is to skip it or sell it for parts. [/quote] Haha I suppose so. The thing we're losing sight of here though is that it's not just a case of gluing it back together (that will never work). This job requires some woodworking skills.

[quote name='Dave Vader' post='1316781' date='Jul 26 2011, 11:04 AM']Araldite, clamps, leave it for a bit. If it doesn't work then follow some of the other advice on here instead. Better to try and fail than never try at all... maybe [/quote] True, only once he's tried and failed at this (you are never going to do this without the right tools), he's buggered up the chance at getting it done properly or at least doubled the costs. Get a quote before going any further !!!

Not sure it's all that cheap.

What are "MPC on board electronics"? Some sort of modular effects cartridges?

It would be easy enough but once you are through the chrome you are going to find it hard to prevent it from corroding. I say skip it and wait for something else to come along.

[quote name='MB1' post='1316513' date='Jul 26 2011, 01:00 AM']MB1. and the tooth and claw marks.[/quote] Exactly

Doesn't really matter, you put it back together with an angled wooden insert along the back of it. Good as new. The tough part is hiding the join.

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' post='1316433' date='Jul 25 2011, 10:41 PM']No-name P bass on Edinburgh Gumtree for 50 quid. Headstock looks a lot like some 70's Japanese P copies I've seen. It looks pretty good for the price... [url="http://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/bass-guitar/84725311#gallery-item-full-3"]http://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/bass-gui...ery-item-full-3[/url][/quote] What's that in front of the nut?

Looks fixable to me. Most important here is to take the strings off - trying not to touch or damage the snaped area any further - and take it to a luthier for a quote.

[quote name='mart' post='1316050' date='Jul 25 2011, 06:21 PM']....I wonder if this is the thread on the science of it that you are thinking of: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=119946"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=119946[/url] It has an eerily familiar selection of people posting so I can see why ou7shined doesn't want to go through this whole argument all over again. Personally, I hope it's not that thread that you're thinking of, cos I'd love to read some more serious physics input into this problem.....[/quote] Yep that was the one. I couldn't add much more to a debate where one persons theory wins over practice and photographic evidence, hence the respectful distance. Hey, I'll keep making basses the way I do (with no neck dive ) and you guys keep keep debating about it. If there was a guy out there that knows how to produce a physics model that demonstrates this then we'd have it done and dusted in no time. [quote name='Mod_Machine' post='1315814' date='Jul 25 2011, 03:18 PM']I have a similar playing angle in my avatar photo but havent moved the strap pin?!!?[/quote] To me those angles aren't even mildly similar. One is clearly way under 45° the other is clearly over. Might just be me though. As I said I'm happy with what I do.

£115 is still pretty good considering it's excellent condition and the case too. Interestingly (or not) I was born in Wallingford.

[quote name='neepheid' post='1316209' date='Jul 25 2011, 08:38 PM']What I meant by "too rigidly Jazz shaped" was if it has some sort of form fitting insert [/quote] Dunno what you mean Matt but my Kinsman is Jazz shaped and fits a J (and as we've now discovered a G&L) very snugly. Now if you were trying to get a J bass into a P bass hardcase.... forget about it. *Mickey Blue-eyes*

[quote name='jonsmith' post='1316004' date='Jul 25 2011, 05:38 PM']Nightmare. Ten minute setup for band that normally requires much more time. Power cut during setup means we have to forego a load of samples on an old sampler, as it takes a small eternity to boot. Lots of buzzing during first number & I discover that the patch lead from my wireless to my amp has decided to give up the ghost. Three synths boot up at correct pitch (-2 semitones) and one doesn't, but doesn't reveal itself until the third number - throwing everyone. Change bass for fourth number and check tuning during intro - looks fine with a couple of tweaks. Three minutes into song is first time I use D string, and find it is a semitone sharp. Realise that because I have only one cab due to time constraints, tuner is lower than normal & I didn't see the sharp sign because of viewing angle. Quick mental re-jig of fingering, but by now feeling well & truly jinxed. Retune again at song end, but now over-running due to power cut. Have to drop two of our most popular numbers. Last two songs go OK and we get some nice feedback, but we all know it could have gone a lot better. Nice audience, hosts & soundguys though... ...and a lesson learnt for next time - keep it simple![/quote] OMG nightmare indeed. I really feel for you guys... but I had to have a wee laugh too though sorry.

[quote name='lobematt' post='1315963' date='Jul 25 2011, 05:14 PM']In that pic I can see the little bits sticking out for the bridge, that's one part I've never quite understood though. Do you have to have a piece of copper from a cavity with electronics in it to the bridge or just one at the bridge? Sorry it's quite hard to explain because I've got no idea what I'm talking about![/quote] That bass has an earthed wire running from the control cavity to underneath the bridge as most basses do. I put the copper tab under the bridge there to increase surface area contact between the wire and the bridge, that's all. The tab coming up from the control cavity is actually part of the shielding in there and comes into contact with the control plate itself - which itself is already earthed at different point but my builds all have belt and braces back up features built in.