Ou7shined

Well I always say "basswood".

[quote name='tomhunt' post='1326692' date='Aug 4 2011, 11:56 AM']Hi guys! Does any one know where I can buy a single screw thumb rest for my Fender 51 Precision? [b]I brought the bass second hand [/b]and it didnt come with one but had the hole already for one to be fitted. How hard can they be to find...???? Been looking for a few days now! Hope someone can help! Tom[/quote] Where did you [b]bring[/b] it from? Sorry, a bugbear of mine. If you list your location you might find someone to make you one.

[quote name='neepheid' post='1326535' date='Aug 4 2011, 09:46 AM']Heh, I did have a brief flirtation with skinny stringed guitars in my yoof. I had one of these: I didn't stick at it, didn't learn much, couldn't play the songs I wanted to so it became an ornament until I flogged it and the wee amp. That lead (and a few plectrums) are the only remnants of that era which remain today. Also, I'm only counting playing properly (as in actually sticking at it) in that time. I bought my first bass (the Epi EB-3) back in 2003 (I think). Thankfully the laziness wasn't terminal this time [/quote] Ah I getcha, it's "still going strong" because it wasn't used until 4 years ago.

[quote name='analogrowl' post='1326436' date='Aug 4 2011, 07:41 AM']Yeah i read a bit more about rays and seems that you guys are right ! I'm hesitating between nordstrand, sadowsky and lakland now. Do you think guys one of them could suit my needs and which brand would you recommend ? Any place in London where i could give a try to that 3 brand ? Only US model. Regards, O.[/quote] Although I have never owned any of the above, I feel you may be looking at options which exceed your requirements. These ^ basses are normally selected for their clarity of tone for situations where their natural raw tone (basically refinements of Fender tone) is considered worth the extra premium. For your type of music you are looking for something with power and a broad spectrum of tones which will work well with effects... which imho takes us back to G&L mate.

In recent years I've used in order TU-2, DT-10, Pitchblack, Polytune. I would place them in order of worst to best as ... TU-2 - too flakey - eats batteries Pitchblack - nice and small - low B no probs - but no non-mute option - a little flakey DT-10 - reliable - bypass loop - handles low B - but a little on the big side (I still have mine for a back up though ) Polytune - simply the nuts - very accurate - fast tracking - catches low B - ambient light sensor

Why do all these legendary slappers have atrocious dress sense?

[quote name='neepheid' post='1325811' date='Aug 3 2011, 04:07 PM']I still have the first lead I ever bought - a Proel cable with Neutrik ends from 1996, so 15 years old. Still going strong.[/quote] I'm utterly perplexed (and obviously nosey), how come you've had one that long and you've only been playing for 4 years? edit : Oh I have a couple of leads from circa '82 they are smelly and I wouldn't trust them at all.

[quote name='Beedster' post='1326377' date='Aug 4 2011, 01:07 AM']Mostly 'yes' with necks and bodies, controls and PUPs (and most bridges), often 'no' with pickguards and tuners.[/quote] Just this.

Just buy one. 5's are great. If you don't want to use the B then consider it a long thumb-rest. Bass players can be precious dears at times so don't get scared off by all the "I didn't get on with 5's so I'm going back to 4's" or "I couldn't get my head around it" stuff. If you stick with it you'll be fine.... there's nothing to get your head around. Just take small steps and it will come to you.

[quote name='Andyjr1515' post='1326328' date='Aug 4 2011, 12:05 AM']Well I’m a bit confused by this – not from the selling point of view (which I agree with…not putting a price on is a bit like a trader putting ‘POA’ – I never follow up these because I always think there’s going to be a catch or hard sell) but from the buyer’s point of view. I recently looked at a bass for sale at a good price but one where the seller said he’d had offers but for postage and he would prefer collection. I offered by PM at £10 below the asking price based on cash and collection the following day. I gave my phone number and said, I think entirely politely, call if he was interested. I put the same on the forum except I didn’t put the price I’d offered (or, obviously, my phone number). The £10 reduced offer came from a simple calculation of the asking price, plus the diesel for the 250 mile round trip, plus the bits that didn’t come with the bass coming to £20 more than I could afford. I was moderately flamed both by PM and on the forum. I work hard never to p**s anyone off on the internet (and really am upset that I've p****d off this guy) and I am just about the opposite of a commercial shark, but am I to assume that a buyer must offer the asking price or nothing at all? It’s a funny old world… Confused of Derby[/quote] It looks to me like the seller merely used your offer as a point to emphasise the bargain that was to had.... albeit without thinking about your feelings. Seeing as the seller is a moderator himself, a wee word with the site owner should bring about a swift resolution to your situation.

I think the camera got hit by some sandpaper too.

Hmmm, I usually use "gift" and probably will continue to do so. If someone defaults, they'll have the might of Basschat on their ass. It's happened before and it will happen again. Bank transfer offers similar protection. Is it banned too?

[quote name='Johnston' post='1325407' date='Aug 3 2011, 11:17 AM']...But if he makes his template a wedge shape to allow for the angle of dangle won't it keep the front edge angled to suit the neck [/quote] We'll see.

[quote name='BigRedX' post='1325246' date='Aug 3 2011, 09:38 AM']Just been thinking about this some more... Remember that the angle of the neck does more than just allow you to set the action while keeping the bridge saddles at a sensible height, it also changes where the headstock is in relation to the plane of the body and therefore will affect the "balance" of the neck especially when you are wearing the bass on a strap. Now the Thunderbird isn't exactly the most well balanced of basses, so I would think carefully before changing the neck angle, as you might make it worse.[/quote] But this one is headless for that very reason. Matt, if the neck pocket floor is angled, does this mean too that the front edge is also angled (to keep it perpendicular)? This may be an extra hassle when routing. Just take it flat and watch you depth. Not a big fan of shims btw - you considerably lessen contact area and (if you believe in such thing ... like I do) lose out on sonic transference.

Can't believe no one has mentioned the chap on the right here - THE most influential bass player in my life.... and who rumour has it, was the inventor of detuned bass.

[quote name='JellyKnees' post='1324361' date='Aug 2 2011, 03:24 PM']K, thanks Steve...I've never had this happen with any bass before, but then I don't think I've ever played in quite such an extreme environment either![/quote] Yeah thanks Steve. I wish I'd thought of that.

[quote name='BigRedX' post='1324120' date='Aug 2 2011, 12:38 PM']If it was me I'd remove as much of the neck pocket as small as you can while still giving enough wood the join the neck to. I'd also consider reshaping the back of the neck and the back of the neck pocket to give the best possible upper-fret access. This Mike Lull T-Bass neck joint should give you an idea of what can be achieved with a bolt-on neck on the Thunderbird body: [/quote] Yep. It's my understanding that Matt intends to copy this design exactly.... right down to not having a plate.

[quote name='johnny_frog' post='1323815' date='Aug 2 2011, 07:34 AM']Rehersal night last week [/quote] Nice to see a return of the old wife-beater.

As much as I detest Sunbeams, I'd suggest it was actually your bass' neck which had warped in the heat.

I really don't get the Fender market. Surely a '62 RI pup should be made to recreate what an original circa '62 pup sounds like [b]today[/b] (taking into account magnetic degradation etc. etc.). That would make far more sense to me, especially if you are attempting to recreate a vintage instrument. I mean what's the point of playing a "new sounding" vintage instrument?

Woops

[quote name='bassybill' post='1323345' date='Aug 1 2011, 06:13 PM']And why bother with the straploks on a guitar for someone who likes the look of something that's been dropped on to concrete repeatedly? [/quote]

For those beans you should be looking at getting one built entirely to your own specifications.

Eh up 'ere we go again. Linus you aught to know better.