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That's quite the endorsement. Do you use the floating trem? From what I've seen/heard this is one of the features of the instrument that makes it what it is and something that's completely lacking in some of the quality competitors' instruments like the Schecter Hellcat VI.

What kind of music are you playing and what sound do you want? For a deep, rich sound with a pliable string I found Spiro Solos de-tuned to Orchestral pitch are a great choice. I’ve used mine for over 100 gigs so far and they’ve been faultless.

Slow and steady wins the race.

Batman Theme — The Marketts

Holding Out For A Hero - Bonnie Tyler

Only 6 years behind you on this, haha! But, as I've just started discovering from a very basic slicing patch on my GX10, it's a very cool fx!

Love the fact that you've finally found what you're looking for after a 16 year search!! Guess when that happens you set aside any concerns about the chunky price of this unit and dive in! Looking forward to hearing more about how you get on with this and how you're managing to use it live / in the studio.

Happy new year everyone!

This. Exactly.

Have you thought about trying Spiro Mittels?

These are good as long as you have room around the LED. They also do simple white ones. https://shop.warwick.de/en/rockboard-by-warwick-mounting-accessoriesrockboard-jewel-led-damper-small-defractive-cover-for-bright-leds-5-pcs.

Iron Man - Black Sabbath

Admittedly that’s playing double bass, but I’ve found it easier as I’ve gotten older. Less need to follow fashion, and instead to indulge passion! I’ve also joined a Blue Note jazz band which has been a huge amount of fun.

This is me too.

Black insulating or gaffer tape with a pin pick in works. Also non white masking tape.

I play in a church with a number of other bass players who are all quite young or beginners. I was asked a few weeks back by our music director to have a look at the amp settings they use (a Trace GP7, 4x10) as they don't sound "as full as you do". My initial response was to feel please that my 1k+ pedal board and much better basses were making the difference (given the amp setting are exactly the same), but having now sat down with three of them it turns out that technique makes the biggest change to the sound. Playing closer to the bridge, not using open strings, left hand muting other strings, playing passing notes rather than just roots etc. and we all start to sound far more similar! Annoyingly for GAS new/different equipment is seldom the answer to these sorts of things!

Damn, I should've been on Batch 2, LOL!

Looking at that circuit diagram you posted, your pedal already does some sort of combining and sends the signal out as a "serial data" stream. Whether that be a MIDI type stream or (more likely) an analogue variable voltage kind of thing, is anyone's guess. I'm guessing it is not MIDI as I can't see a return comms connection on the drawing - unless it is send (MIDI OUT) only. The Thomann one you posted has a wide ribbon cable connecting to the MIDI module, which would suggest separate contact connections for each note pedal. if you wanted to do that with yours, I guess you would have to cut in further up in the pedal board circuitry before it turns them into one serial line? To me, your drawing looks like it is for the organ end, and if so: Pin 1 - Ground Pin 2 - Ground Pin 3 - Connection for separate volume pedal which I assume plugs into this pedal board on its way to the organ? Pin 4 - Not Used Pin 5 - 9v supply from Organ Pin 6 - Serial data out of pedalboard to organ Pin 7? I assume this is chassis connection of the organ socket to ground? As there is a separate connection for serial data and volume pedal, this suggests to me that the transmission medium is not MIDI. I'm happy to be schooled by the electronics whizzes on here if I'm wrong as I don't read circuit diagrams very often any more!

Also asking for a "friend"?

Personally speaking, I'd go for an eBay refund. You can spend a lot of time and money trying to get it to work or hacking something together. If you like the challenge, go for it, but you could easily lose 10-20 hours just trying to figure it out. I'm not demeaning your talents here but being realistic. I know what it's like as I love a technical challenge and waste too much time and money doing something that I shouldn't. I now price my own time up and add that to the costs. So if I think something might take 10 hours and I think my time is worth £20 per hour, is it worth me spending £200 to fix it? I make exceptions for learning activities, as I think that learning is always good. Learning not to do something is valuable as well. YMMV Rob