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Grandmaster Flush and the Furious Five

Beth Fart

I interpreted the question as what would be too expensive for me to buy. I think I would struggle to justify anything north of £3k because I would simply be too afraid to take it out of the house, and also the law of diminishing returns probably means paying large amounts for incremental differences once you get above this point.

That looks like it was damaged!

Edith Phaf

Harold Melvin and the Glue notes

Gland Funk Railroad

What software are you using to come up with the design? And what criteria to choose the drivers? For simple ported or sealed cabs I use WinISD 0.7. I consider not only frequency response but also sensitivity, maximum power (determined by Pe and Xmax, whichever is lower), and port velocity (no more than 20m/s at full power within the nominal passband). I choose drivers based on their cost effectiveness while producing the desired results. Also note that software is only effective within the region of pure pistonic function, which is roughly two octaves above Fs. Above that you must use the driver data sheet SPL chart. And that only gives you the raw numbers. Turning those into a cabinet design relies mainly on experience to know what works best. As for mixing drivers, it's like a box of chocolates: you never know what you're going to get. Sticking with one insures that you will know. I ignore when people say that 'this 115 and that 410 work a treat', because virtually any two speakers together will work better than either on their own. The only way to know if any given pair of mismatched cabs/drivers work better than two of each matched is to try all three combinations side by side. That's fine if you have two of each, but if you don't it's an experiment you can't undertake. Don't sweat tuning for the low B note. While the fundamental is 31 Hz the bulk of the content is in the 2nd and 3rd harmonics, 62 and 93 Hz. No one ever complained about an Ampeg Fridge handling low B, and its F3 is 58 Hz. I never tune bass cabs lower than 45 Hz. I only go lower than that for PA subs.

The Toasters

Bill Haley and his Vomets

Welcome Phil.

Craftwɇrk

Jimmy Johnson is a super player. I sure cannot play the stuff he does but it is very interesting to follow his playing through your transcription. Once again, thank you @Bilbo.

Don't forget that it is an ever so slightly different beast from your FSO's, if you play finger style, try playing it between the pickups rather than between the bridge and the pickup.

Over 40 years ago, I bought a Dual CS505 turntable, which I have used, off and on, over that time. Mrs Dinger rediscovered her record collection, and we played a few discs. Unfortunately, the needle in the cartridge (or the stylus?) is now misaligned - instead of facing downwards, it rotated by 45 degrees to the right, and the sound is distorted. Not sure how it happened (it worked when we started playing our vinyl), but it now clearly needs adjusting or replacing. Can anyone recommend a solution? The stylus reads "Ortofon", "DUAL" and "DN165E" , here: I have found a few possible replacements, each for £20: https://www.recordstylus.co.uk/shop/Record-Stylus-Needle-for-Dual-505-CS505-DN165E-DN166E-DN167-OM5-p610017647 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303287394628?_skw=505&itmmeta=01KCYT9ENV70KJKZ5E0X8J919Q&hash=item469d566144:g:ZaMAAOxyx-BSb~bt Oddly, https://www.dualfred.de/ sells everything for Dual turntables, apart from styli Before I invest, can Basschatters advise? Do I just need the stylus, or a cartridge, or a new turntable? Might I need new belts? Do the bearings need maintenance?

Yep

Hey, I'm Phil. I've been signed up to basschat for a long time I think, but not really posted much. I've been playing since I was 16, now 44. But don't let that fool you there's been some good gaps along the way where I wasn't in a band. I tend to play and focus when in a band but lack drive when I'm not. Basses: Sire M7 5st Warwick Corvette Std 4 (owned since new in 1997) Washburn EAB 4st. Amp: Warwick Gnome 300w. Might upgrade to the 600w. Really like having smaller lighter stuff these days. I like a clean clear balanced sound, so this suits. Celestion cab(s) made by me. 1x15 and finishing a 2x10 - Neo mags again for lightweight shifting stuff about. Prev amps: (H//H 250 mosfet & Blackwidow 15 cab) Bands: From Alt heavy rock, to Indie, to Rock, to Funk. Currently in an acoustic/funk/folk 3 piece but the style varies a bit: Granson Way. (only have a few recordings so far, still building a set. Currently 2 covers and 12 originals) Hope to get more involved with the chat. Thanks Phil!

Has to be under £500. Theres so many basses available new and 2nd hand under £500. If you're hitting £750 to £1000, your options are getting less. still lots, but less.

I’ve put £2000, as a new US Fender Precision is just under that, and my benchmark for expensive has always been whatever they cost, this being a hangover from my youth where a US Precision was the daddy.

Tough one to crack, the complete Jimmy Johnson performance on the tune 'Ojai' from the 1986 Wayne Johnson Trio album, 'Grasshopper'. I got this when it came out because I had read about this guitar player in the Guitar Player magazine when it used to be good and full of top drawer players an not hair metal poseurs. he had a double-neck 6/12 and Flim had one of the first 5-string basses I had ever seen. More to the point, he used the whole damn instrument in a way that most Rock player would never do. One of my top 4 influences. https://bilbosbassbites.co.uk/ojai-wayne-johnson-trio/

I've seen quite a few times people saying that they wouldn't want to take an expensive bass to the Dog & Trumpet, but what is an expensive bass? I've got several basses that I class as expensive basses, but maybe my idea of expensive is calibrated differently to other people. To me, the threshold is £1000, which may just be an indicator that I'm rather old and my Warwick Thumb cost me £900 in 1988, and that was bloody expensive. I think most of us would agree that a Fodera Yin Yang at £7kish is expensive. But where does everyone else place that marker? This isn't about what you get for the money, or any sentimental value, it's purely a monetary thing. What is the minimum price for a bass to be considered expensive?

I felt the need for a bare minimum board for the occasions where the Big One is overkill. Or I'm too tired/lazy to carry it. Polytune 2(?) > 3 Leaf Audio Mini > Way Huge Pork Loin > BassRig Fifteen All powered by a Truetone OneSpot into the Gigrig modular system.