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I'd be a liar if I said that purple/black colour scheme was my cup of tea, but I'm sure to be in minority (probably of one) on that, and may you both enjoy your new Spectors a lot. More's to the point, I'd be very interested in the fullness of time to hear about any perceived differences in sound and overall feel between these new S.E versions and previous offering with the Caribbean Burst and maple board.

Welcome. Im glad you found the forum. Im sure you'll get some responses about lessons along the way.

Nooooo. Don't! We'd have to do a 50 page thread on recutting brass nuts!

https://www.ticketquarter.co.uk/Online/default.asp?BOparam::WScontent::loadArticle::permalink=tq-dhjh-lijf26&BOparam::WScontent::loadArticle::context_id=

Is it tuned BEAD?

She is playing in the Liverpool Jazz festival.

Sure - just thinking aloud about how many cabs we could fit on a stage! Maybe a bass horn too!!! (Only kidding; yep, great to meet!)

Charlie's Enormous Mouth — Frank Zappa

Bloody hell. What a mess. They want the thick end of three hundred notes for that? It would be a cold day in hell before I parted with that much cheddar for a horlicks like this. Interestingly though, and speaking to Bassassins point about whether the high action (on mine) was a production defect or a subsequent development, this seems to have got it too, and it looks like they've attempted at least, to remediate the issue by lowereing the bridge. Maybe it was a dodgy batch?

I've got three Yamaha basses, a BB2024X, a BB2024 and a BB2025. On balance, I would say that they are my favourite basses that I have ever bought in forty-odd years of playing bass and owning a lots (lots and lots) of high-end and vintage basses in that time. Those 20 Series basses really were something special, with a unique tone that you can't get from any other Yamaha bass, new or old, or indeed any other bass from another brand. I've played and owned much more expensive basses I didn't like half as much. Those particular Yamahas have got a unique sonic personality that sets them apart. When I got my BB2024X not long after they came out I was shocked not just by how good it was but also how much it confounded my expectations. Despite having all the grunt and growl of a good Fender, the sound was surpisingly unlike a Fender and had all the richness and depth of a high quality active bass. I don't like polite-sounding basses, and my Yamahas always sound big and asseritive. Needless to say with Japanese-made Yamaha instruments, the build quality is top-notch. I had the brainwave of trying flats on one of my Yamahas after seeing Jah Wobble playing his BB2024x, and with a set of Thomatiks on it that bass takes on a whole new dimension of interesting possibilities. Excels at reggae, hip hop ect (and probably a lot more besides) with those strings on. If Yamaha did a proper authentic reissue of the BB3000 I'd definitely be up for getting one of those, too. I had a BB P34 for a while but, despite being beautifully constructed with a nice slim neck, it just didn't do it for me like my other Yamahas. Not a criticism more an observation, but I found the sound of the P34 to be a bit on the lean side. Maybe that leaness can be attributed to the maple laminate in the core of the body. What's for certain is that it sounds much more like a conventional PJ than the 2024x et al, which makes sense if you consider that it's the first BB to use conventional Fender-style pickups.

Supermassive black hole - Muse

I’m sure Gary will chime in soon but, yes. The Desert Island is what I think is "Ian HIll", my Peacock is the more standard “meaty” carve. The CRFM I’ve got is skinnier than the IH (but not Doug-like, more like the Tobacco Kramer) and I’ve got a 2018 LX EX (Zebra) that is like a baseball bat. Fortunately, I get on with most profiles unless they're super skinny or ridiculously big. I don’t think I’d get on with a DW.

As you can see, in theory, once its all back together, the cut should be pretty much invisible. I've done a test stringing (without drilling secondary fixings for the neck or doing any sanding as yet) and the action is much more sensible, however, there does seem to be a bow of about 1.2mm (at the 7th fret- the worst spot) in the neck. If I crank the truss rod, the bow gets worse, the 1.2mm is with the rod slack. I seem to recall bow can be corrected using clamps and a rigid thing to clamp the neck too. Any ideas on the process folks?

So I've just got back after a rather splendid weekend in Alsace. The cheese and wine were, as ever, fantastic. Anyhow, thanks Andy, for all of the extra curricular activity. Excellent work. I have made the cut -I thought on balance that in the pickup rout might be best- some pics below..

Is the carve of the necks are so different? 😮

Orange did but it is slightly bonkers for a portable cab. You get the cost and weight of a 2x12 but the output of a 1x12. Cab size is slightly more complex. You can increase the size of the cab and change the tuning but it get's increasingly hard to have a flat response. That's the short version btw, I'm happy to do a longer explanation but it would be moderately technical and potentially very long. Worth a question in amps and speakers maybe but a bit ao a thread de-rail. Good to meet you on Sunday btw