Andyjr1515 Posted August 8, 2016 Author Share Posted August 8, 2016 OK - this works from a functional point of view. Even when weight relieved and long-scale, it should balance on the strap with the strap button somewhere around the 13th/14th fret. There should also be decent access up to and including the 22nd fret. The upper bout to lower bout length difference is greater than a standard SG but I think visually it will look close enough for an 'in the style of' (as there is a size difference on the real ones), particularly once the bevels have been carved. Anyway, no point in building something Pete can't play so I think this is the shape and layout I'll go for. Now I can work out the controls and weight-relief chamber positions and, hopefully soon, start cutting some wood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassmonkey Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 The step button position is a pain. Its on the back of the neck heel and therefore the guitar leans forward and neck dives too. Would have preferred it on the upper body horn personally Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyTravis Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 Ooooooh I like it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted August 8, 2016 Author Share Posted August 8, 2016 [quote name='Bassmonkey' timestamp='1470668749' post='3107494'] The step button position is a pain. Its on the back of the neck heel and therefore the guitar leans forward and neck dives too. Would have preferred it on the upper body horn personally Andy [/quote] Yes - been there, done that. What I will do is put the button at the back of the horn so that it doesn't detract from the look rather than the tip. On my own guitars, I often put both on and use whichever, depending how the mood takes me - the sit and feel is subtly different even though they are so close: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRedX Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 It might be worth investigating the possibility of putting the strap button on the bottom of the upper horn. Also is the body going to be as thin and countered as an SG/EB? If so you might not need any chambers as that might get you back into neck-dive territory again. I do like the red stain though. EB basses generally don't look right if they're not cherry (unless they are white with gold hardware)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3below Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 (edited) The John Birch short scale 'EB3' I had many years ago had the strap button on the back of the upper horn, lower chamfer. It was serious a 'neck diver' even with mini Schallers. My current SG bass (short scale) is a slight neck diver. I rather like the angle the heel strap button sets the bass at, seems easier on my left wrist. Even with the strategies adopted in design I would still be very tempted to knock up a [b]very rough[/b] pine (or something cheap) body and neck to further investigate the neck dive potential. I am inspired by BC builds, I have the mahogany but am currently awaiting new planer thicknesser drive belt and have to set up some new blades. Tomorrow I hope. Edited August 8, 2016 by 3below Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted August 8, 2016 Author Share Posted August 8, 2016 What I do, once the bass is close to finish, is to pop the tail button on, and attach the strap and then try the other end of the strap, often using a simple string sling,in various positions to see where the balance and 'sit' lies before deciding the best place for the button. A button at the back of the top horn in standard SG configuration is almost bound to result in neck heavy, hence my modded shape to get the button closer in line with the 13th fret. I look forward to seeing a build thread, 3below! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 Surely weight reduction chambers in the body is going to encourage neck dive, especially on an SG shape... unless you intend to fill one of the chambers with lead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted August 9, 2016 Author Share Posted August 9, 2016 [quote name='ColinB' timestamp='1470725863' post='3107877'] Surely weight reduction chambers in the body is going to encourage neck dive, especially on an SG shape... unless you intend to fill one of the chambers with lead? [/quote] Yes - it's a judgement call on all these factors. Basically, what will be pushing the c of g forward is: * long neck * short body and upper horn of SG shape * reduction of weight in body What I will be doing to counter this, is: * pulling bridge further back to the tail, thus shortening the neck * putting the front strap button on the horn, not at the neck heel, thus moving it further forward * moving the top horn, and therefore the strap button further forward than standard * fitting ultralight tuners ...and keep a weather eye on commodity lead prices Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allighatt0r Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 I suppose that putting the cambers up at the neck end of the body will help, too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 So would Helium balloons at the headstock! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlungerModerno Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 So would thinning the neck down (depth and width) - as well as making the headstock as thin and small as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRedX Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 How about an early 70s style [url=http://www.flyguitars.com/gibson/bass/1971gibsonEB3L.php]slotted headstock[/url]? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassmonkey Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 Good idea Red X Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6feet7 Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 (edited) I know absolutely nothing about building basses but something I've done to pretty much every bass I've had since I owned a couple of 1980's Ibanez RB850's (which had this) is move the strap button from directly behind the bridge to 2 or so inches up. That way the body hangs a bit lower and neck comes up, stopping neck dive. Works for me Edited August 9, 2016 by 6feet7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted August 9, 2016 Author Share Posted August 9, 2016 [quote name='6feet7' timestamp='1470774516' post='3108415'] I know absolutely nothing about building basses but something I've done to pretty much every bass I've had since I owned a couple of 1980's Ibanez RB850's (which had this) is move the strap button from directly behind the bridge to 2 or so inches up. That way the body hangs a bit lower and neck comes up, stopping neck dive. Works for me [/quote] Yes - I do this too when I have a problem. I don't expect to have a problem with this one, but it's in the arsenal just in case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share Posted August 10, 2016 The mahogany I am using is far from straight and planed. I spent quite a bit of time making a much more substantial router jig to level and thickness the back panels. I have a thicknesser, but it is the renowned 'banana in, banana out' syndrome when you are dealing with uneven surfaces on both sides! This is the rig I built out of some very stiff and perfectly flat IKEA shelves we no longer use!: ...and this is one of the back halves after initial thicknessing: These are how the two halves will sit, with the neck splices in the middle: All marked out - with any luck I'll be able to band-saw these this evening: The 'devil's top' is going to take some thinking about. Probably because of the grain direction (basically what gives it such a stunning figuring) the panels are VERY bowed. I may have to - it had to happen sometime - build the thing conventionally! That is, add the back wings to the neck, then clamp the top panels onto the flat surface. For those who follow my other threads, you will know I usually do it the other way round, which freaks out many a decent builder . Anyway, to try to avoid such a shameful thing as convention, I am seeing if they will flatten. I have thoroughly soaked the concave side, clamped it straight and will leave overnight to thoroughly dry....mmmmm, we'll see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezbass Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 And so it begins - yummy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted August 11, 2016 Author Share Posted August 11, 2016 The thicknessing with a router worked fine with the back slabs of mahogany but less successful with the top. As mentioned, the grain pattern encouraged a longitudinal bow. I straightened them by soaking on one side and clamping overnight, but as soon as I started thicknessing with the router, the bow broke the two sided tape bond, then panels rose and the router started digging in. In the end, I just used my Makita thicknesser - they will still be banana, but at least with a surface capable of being dead flat! So, that done, time to glue the two halves of the top : The two halves are being clamped very securely by the vice at the same time as the levelling beam acting as a caul to keep the two halves flat against the bench, which itself is protected from the glue squeeze-out by a layer of cling film. Tomorrow should see some progress on cutting the top shape / back wings and, if I don't get landed with too many domestic duties, gluing the neck splices together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted August 12, 2016 Author Share Posted August 12, 2016 (edited) Well, the top gluing seems pretty sound and the panels - at the moment - are staying largely flat. For those who haven't used figured woods before and intend to, there's an important tip related to the fact that the best of the bookmatching is usually along the join....which is where most of the hardware goes. Added to that, there are features that, again, can often be covered or routed out by hardware or pickups. So the tip is to ALWAYS pop a mask over the wood, dampened to see the grain, and place on some hardware paper templates or the actual bits if you've got them. Here, the fretboard and bridge pickup are not intended for this bass - but they are in approx the right places. I haven't put any sample knobs on, but can envisage where they will be, including the big settings plate of the varitone. I have a choice - this way round: ...or this way round I think I know my own preference. Which one grabs you? Edited August 12, 2016 by Andyjr1515 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassmonkey Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 Option 1 for me bud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6v6 Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1470995750' post='3109819'] I think I know my own preference. Which one grabs you? [/quote] For me it's the first one, I really like the way the figuring looks on the lower bouts of the body. One question for you - what sort of router bit do you use with the thicknessing jig? I've tried a similar thing with large-ish straight bits and got fairly poor results, e.g not that smooth because the edges of each pass are visible so need post-routing sanding to fully flatten (to be fair, it could also be that my jig isn't quite rigid enough). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bastav Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 Thats a tough one...I think I like the second one better because it looks more like its on fire and its a little more chaotic... but you cant really go wrong either way. Its gonna be a stunner! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted August 12, 2016 Author Share Posted August 12, 2016 (edited) [quote name='6v6' timestamp='1470997810' post='3109854'] For me it's the first one, I really like the way the figuring looks on the lower bouts of the body. One question for you - what sort of router bit do you use with the thicknessing jig? I've tried a similar thing with large-ish straight bits and got fairly poor results, e.g not that smooth because the edges of each pass are visible so need post-routing sanding to fully flatten (to be fair, it could also be that my jig isn't quite rigid enough). [/quote] Yes - it does that with mine too. But it is usually just the grain pushed one way a bit like the stripes on a lawn so doesn't affect the dimensional accuracy. As you say, a quick sand will usually sort it. You can see the stripes here: I just use a straight-forward 1/2" (or metric equivalent). This one was a bit blunt, to be honest...I'd only got one that was long enough and that has been knocking around for some time The key seems to be to apply small increments of depth and no more than 1/2 of the bit's diameter travel on each pass. Edited August 12, 2016 by Andyjr1515 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allighatt0r Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 I'd be voting for option 2, if it were my bass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.