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  1. My guesses (make yours before peeking!): Looks like it should be very unique, cool, and practical.
  2. I think there maybe some woods out there sold as mahogany that are much much stiffer and tougher than the usual stuff, but I agree there is not enough there to be fully confident in any wood. Even the most consistent wood can hide a void or shake! Luthiers, especially those dealing with tricky and non traditional instruments like acoustic basses, should always err on the side of sturdiness when there is no issue with volume or tone, like the neck. Unless they like warrantee return work lol.
  3. Monster basses for the money, now the disadvantage of not being able to try them in many stores is suspended for now I'd recommend trying with confidence. Always check the return policy though, you may love it but want a slightly different spec, or maybe won't get on with it. Used they are a steal, if they go for their usual modest prices.
  4. It's a bolt on, if it played well you needn't break out the saw, just find a likely body to swap it out, or get one made in your fav shape.
  5. Are you sure that's not a mirror finish?
  6. Will it be a bass with 3 strings per course (like a 12 string with a low B course) or will it be a bass with 5 strings per course, kinda like this: but with 5 string courses (maybe a ADG tuning, with 1 bass string per course, then 2 guitar strings tuned an octave up per course, then 2 more much lighter guitar strings tuned 2 octaves up per course)? Either way it sounds wonderful, and a beast to play!
  7. From https://www.east-uk.com/product/j-tone/ "In passive mode, the original jazz style bass is fully maintained since the signal path is a replica of those in the original Jazz." If it has the original signal path then it shouldn't buffer anything in passive mode, allowing for the normal VVT pickup loading if you choose that option. I'd send him an email if you're curious.
  8. I think for a lot of players you're right, but I think having a very tiny extra bit of height is needed for some players, if they want the lowest overall action and hate any kind of buzz, I think a tiny bit is a good idea.
  9. Now that is about as 80's as anything!
  10. There's as many opinions on zero fret height as nut height. Unlike a nut where if you go too low and can break out the superglue and some bone dust or baking powder, adding height to a zero fret is not really practical. This is the advice I'd follow to dial it in gradually: Edit for clarity: I capo or hold the string against the 3rd fret, then gently fret the first fret to judge nut action. You can also use a couple of thin layers of paper or a feeler gauge to check/measure it. It helps to get it consistent across the strings.
  11. I'd say give it a full setup, setting neck relief, string height and testing for high frets. Odds are you will need a shim or will have very high or worse very low saddle height screws poking yer hand. You can make or improvise all the tools you need to check except the hex keys. An old credit card can easily make a fret rocker and folded paper, thin guitar picks, and coins (you can easily find their thicknesses online) can stand in for feeler gauges.
  12. +1 for not trying it as a first or even second project, a lot might go wrong. If you have a backup bass and can afford to lose the candidate neck or whole bass, I'd say experiment away if it's not a valuable bass to you.
  13. A real understated look - I think this is a different custom, probably a BC Rich judging by the headstock.
  14. Looks groovy, getting ASAT vibes with a real ACG twist in almost every way. Looks fresh and clean, subtle too with the grain peeking through.
  15. Cool bass. It'd be a real shame to have to replace that neck or upset the fit & finish of that fingerboard to replace the truss rod. Did you establish it was a dual action rod? Hopefully it'll be stable enough and only need very occasional tweaks with a custom tool. If it does fully round and won't take any tools, you can try what @kodiakblair suggested, epoxying in an inner bolt with a hex head, the threading idea sounds like a good way to get a much stronger bond between the blot and the existing nut, but either way it sounds like any leakage or spillage of epoxy might create a seized truss rod A more temperamental and probably weaker solution but one that won't have the risk of seizing the truss rod with epoxy squeeze-out could be to get in there with a dremel tool or other grinder and carve one or more channels inside the existing nut for a key or keys, then drop in a bolt with a stout hex head that has similar keys loose or epoxied to the bolt, and just locktite it in place so it won't fall out. There are a lot of ways you could do this, the simplest I can think of is round channels and keys, so the bolt and nut look a bit like: Obviously on a smaller scale, you could use a panel pin or a piece of wire as a key, just has to be enough to resist the shearing forces when you try to adjust the rod. EDIT: Just saw the "TUNGSTEN" printed on the tap & die visual reference I posted. I wouldn't dream of trying to machine tungsten, even a little bolt, it'll eat everything but the hardest materials (carbides, diamonds etc.) for breakfast!
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