steve-bbb Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 (edited) i recently replaced my hartke XL115 that i sold but wish i hadnt with a hartke VX115 lots of lovely fat bottom but the VX has the pesky horn and it was extremley bright on the highs and then some so i opened up the back plate - the wiring was extremley tight no flexibility or slack cable not even enough to remove the back plate completely without total disassemble, so i could just about manage to peek inside and identify the wire going off in the direction of the horn - so i snipped the two blue wires assuming clean cut and nothing else dangling nearby and no risk of shorting or anything - is there no risk with this procedure ie affecting the impedance of the 15 driver or anything else? ta muchly edit - am guessing the big fat beast and the tiny irritating horn are in parallel so no issues??? Edited June 6, 2014 by steve-bbb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Jack Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 (edited) [url="http://cli.ps/dWJQx"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXoPEmh39ls[/url] Edited June 6, 2014 by Happy Jack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannybuoy Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 If you just snip the tweeter wire, you will still have the crossover attached which will be rolling off the highs going to the main speaker. I'd remove the crossover entirely so that the cable goes direct to the speaker, than you will get a little bit more treble extension than you're hearing now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc S Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 I really don't know the answer to your question about impedance but I'd get someone who does know to check that issue as dannybuoy says - the crossover will probably still be "working" so that may affect such issues too.... I was actually replying, cos I thought you'd had THE snip and was about to try to offer some words of comfort Hope you sort the amp mate Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvin Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Oooo, ouch! That aside, it's the one thing I dislike about the Hartke cabs is not being able to switch the tweeter off. I'd play it safe and remove the crossover completely, if you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael J Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 [url=http://sound.westhost.com/lr-passive.htm#s3.2]This guy knows what he's talking about[/url] [quote][i]A word of warning is worthwhile here. [b]Never[/b] operate an amplifier into a crossover network with the drivers disconnected. It may be tempting to look at the response, but at a frequency equal to the series resonant frequency of the inductor and capacitor, the network may present almost a dead short circuit to the amplifier (depending on the filter type - second order filters are the greatest risk). [i]Current is limited only by series resistance, and dangerous voltages can be developed across the capacitor and inductor. These can be sufficient to damage the capacitor (due to over-voltage), and can give you a very nasty electric shock. The amplifier may not survive this abuse either, so it could be a very expensive temptation indeed. With only 10V RMS applied at the resonant frequency of the 3kHz filter shown below (and assuming a total series resistance of 1 ohm), the amplifier will be supplying 8.3A RMS, and there will be 98V RMS across the inductor and capacitor. Provided the Zobel network is left in place, the resonance is damped so heavily that any risk is eliminated.[/i][/i][/quote] So find out what sort of circuit you have, presuming that you don't want to fry your amplifier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badass Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 [quote name='Marvin' timestamp='1402045204' post='2469434'] That aside, it's the one thing I dislike about the Hartke cabs is not being able to switch the tweeter off. [/quote] All Hydrive and AK cabs from Hartke have a three way switch, -6dB, OFF, ON Just a shame the older XL and VX never had this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve-bbb Posted June 6, 2014 Author Share Posted June 6, 2014 I could always reconnect it and shove a sock in it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve-bbb Posted June 6, 2014 Author Share Posted June 6, 2014 Last gig the head started farting horribly but stopped when I changed to a passive bass so I assumed was most likely the battery in the bass failing Think I will reconnect and dampen the horn under the grill with some black foam and email Hartlke see what they recommend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JapanAxe Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 (edited) If you made a clean cut then fine, but there is always the risk of the odd wire strand touching the other conductor and giving you a short circuit. I would never wan to leave uninsulated wires hanging around - far better to remove them, and +1 to removing the crossover completely. If you don't want to mess up the cab for future resale, perhaps you could fit a 2-way switch with the options of horn via crossover or direct to main speaker. Edited June 6, 2014 by JapanAxe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve-bbb Posted June 6, 2014 Author Share Posted June 6, 2014 [quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1402057454' post='2469600'] If you made a clean cut then fine, but there is always the risk of the odd wire strand touching the other conductor and giving you a short circuit. I would never wan to leave uninsulated wires hanging around - far better to remove them, and +1 to removing the crossover completely. If you don't want to mess up the cab for future resale, perhaps you could fit a 2-way switch with the options of horn via crossover or direct to main speaker. [/quote] i cut as cleanly as i could but as you say with all that vibration going on who knows what is bouncing around inside the cabinet the wiring was very tight and no slack at all so if i take the plate off again i will have to do some modding and put some extra cable in from what ive found elsewhere and here i guess that if i disconnect the crossover and tweeter completely that will just leave the two terminals from the driver connected to the input jack and working at full range wish i'd kept hold of the XL115 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve-bbb Posted June 6, 2014 Author Share Posted June 6, 2014 ok here we go ... who dares wins the blue/white are from the pesky tweeter - red/black from the big boy correct me if im wrong but seem all i have to do now is remove the crossover board and the red/black wires from the crossover board and solder the red and black wire from the speaker directly to the jacks so is all in parallel net result on driver working at full range wired in parallel seems reasonable to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvin Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 [quote name='Badass' timestamp='1402054931' post='2469555'] All Hydrive and AK cabs from Hartke have a three way switch, -6dB, OFF, ON Just a shame the older XL and VX never had this. [/quote] Unfortunately I've only had opportunity to use the XL range. I'd like to try out one the AK cabs though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve-bbb Posted June 6, 2014 Author Share Posted June 6, 2014 [quote name='Marvin' timestamp='1402063915' post='2469699'] Unfortunately I've only had opportunity to use the XL range. I'd like to try out one the AK cabs though [/quote] i think having had XL previously i prefer the XL to this VX but both are fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve-bbb Posted June 6, 2014 Author Share Posted June 6, 2014 its done - only one way to find out now i guess shameless plug for tonights gig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassTractor Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 [quote name='steve-bbb' timestamp='1402055331' post='2469564'] I could always reconnect it and shove a sock in it [/quote] Your socks are dry then? Same with your vest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JapanAxe Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 [quote name='BassTractor' timestamp='1402079427' post='2469922'] Your socks are dry then? Same with your vest? [/quote] I bet those socks are still wet - for extra damping! *fetches coat* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve-bbb Posted June 7, 2014 Author Share Posted June 7, 2014 (edited) [quote name='BassTractor' timestamp='1402079427' post='2469922'] Your socks are dry then? Same with your vest? [/quote] i dont know, ive not been down to the beach [quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1402079956' post='2469926'] I bet those socks are still wet - for extra damping! *fetches coat* [/quote] well seemed ok last night - the amp that is, couldnt hear any discernible difference with he 15" running at full range compared to before with the crossover in place no need to resort to socks, damp or otherwise if anybody knows anywhere local to me where they do short courses on how to solder would be much appreciated - i wont be showing you any pics of the soldering on the two speaker wires on to the jack socket Edited June 7, 2014 by steve-bbb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassTractor Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 (edited) [quote name='steve-bbb' timestamp='1402133784' post='2470269'] i dont know, ive not been down to the beach [/quote] I really think you must... [quote name='steve-bbb' timestamp='1402133784' post='2470269'] if anybody knows anywhere local to me where they do short courses on how to solder would be much appreciated [/quote] No real need, I think. Just some rules and some experience built up by soldering stuff that does not matter. Rules should be everywhere on the web, or just ask here, but start with an iron that is hot enough, or you're gonna warm up components while you wait, and ruin them. Personally, as a beginner solderer, I like extra hands: weights with arms and crocodile thingies on them, so you can fixate components exactly where you want them, whilst also leading away some of the excess heat. No shame in using some form of emulsion that will transmit the heat from the iron to the object and from the object to the solder (in that order) whilst possibly cleaning the surface at the same time. Oh, and do use a soldering iron. Those 12" gas torches really are not ideal for electronics. Edit: just notice you're here in my living room. In that case: drink up your coffee and let's go to the soldering shed (yes, I got two sheds). Edited June 7, 2014 by BassTractor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve-bbb Posted June 7, 2014 Author Share Posted June 7, 2014 [quote name='BassTractor' timestamp='1402135448' post='2470286'] I really think you must go down to the sea again, but that's just me. No real need, I think. Just some rules and some experience built up by soldering stuff that does not matter. Rules should be everywhere on the web, or just ask here, but start with an iron that is hot enough, or you're gonna warm up components while you wait, and ruin them. Personally, as a beginner solderer, I like extra hands: weights with arms and crocodile thingies on them, so you can fixate components exactly where you want them, whilst also leading away some of the excess heat. No shame in using some form of emulsion that will transmit the heat from the iron to the object and from the object to the solder (in that order) whilst possibly cleaning the surface at the same time. Oh, and do use a soldering iron. Those 12" gas torches really are not ideal for electronics. [/quote] yes crocodile clips i like this i do know the it about youre not supposed to blow on the hot solder to cool it down and i alwys tin the ends of the wires first but somehow it always ends up an ungodly (but functional) mess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassTractor Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 [quote name='steve-bbb' timestamp='1402135620' post='2470290'] somehow it always ends up an ungodly (but functional) mess [/quote] Might be too low iron temperature, or too little transport of the energy, looking away from the possibility that the objects have moved in the process. Soldering tin (dunno in English) wants to be a ball and wants to create a smooth, shiny surface. Not shiny = not good. All AFAIK of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discreet Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 [quote name='BassTractor' timestamp='1402143341' post='2470405'] Soldering tin (dunno in English)... [/quote] Soldering tin in English = Solder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Protium Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 [quote name='steve-bbb' timestamp='1402133784' post='2470269'] if anybody knows anywhere local to me where they do short courses on how to solder would be much appreciated - i wont be showing you any pics of the soldering on the two speaker wires on to the jack socket [/quote] A screw terminal block removes the need to solder and insulate any wires, and it can be screwed down to stop it moving around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_5 Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 [quote name='Protium' timestamp='1402148094' post='2470448'] A screw terminal block removes the need to solder and insulate any wires, and it can be screwed down to stop it moving around [/quote] This. Makes it easy to reattach should you ever decide to sell the cab on too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
great harry Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 Wish I had seen your shameless plug earlier. I live in Gravesend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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