ChickenKiev Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 The three manufacturers of bridges that I hear about the most. They're all high-mass sexiness but which one deserves the crown? I want to hear pros and cons. I want to hear which you'd recommend. If there are are any other cool bridges you can buy I want to hear it. GO! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fionn Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 Couldn't comment on Gotoh, Badass is over-priced, the Schaller 3D is the dogs baws. The rolling saddle string spacing adjustment on the 3D works really well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul S Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 (edited) Can't speak of Schaller as I haven't used one but I have fitted Gotoh 201 and Badass bridges to Fenders. I have also fitted one you don't mention - the Hipshot A style Fender retro fit. I find all of them more comfortable as the end of the bridge is where I rest the heel of my hand and I find the BBOT is a little too sharp to rest on. I like the sturdiness of all of them. Whether or not there is a difference in sustain/tone is arguable, but that isn't my chief reason for fitting them. From an engineering point of view I'd say the Hipshot is head and shoulders above the other two and is by some way my favourite. Best value for money is the Gotoh 201. Actually, no, the best value for money was a generic Gotoh copy I bought on ebay for around £12. It did much the same job as all the others for what I required of it - not as well made but then it wasn't very expensive. But my best and favourite bass has the Hipshot fitted. Edited August 18, 2013 by Paul S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRedX Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 I like the [url=http://www.abm-mueller.com/index2.html?bassbridges.html]ABM Roller Bridge[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clauster Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 I had the Schaller 3d on a Precision a good while back. Fantastic bit of kit. especially with the adjustable string spacing. IIRC I had to drill a couple of new holes as it's 3 screws rather than 5 to fix it to the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChickenKiev Posted August 18, 2013 Author Share Posted August 18, 2013 Thanks for the feedback so far. How are the holes at the back of the bridges? I've had trouble threading heavy gauge strings through bridges in the past. I've had to use a drill on one of mine to widen them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xgsjx Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 I like the look of the Babicz bridges. It's about which one has the best adjustments, the easiest string placement & which one you like the look of the most. The ABM ones are also well made, but they're redonkulously priced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lozz196 Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 Not had Schallers, have had Gotohs & Badasses on my Fenders. For me, out of the two the Gotoh wins - they look more like the original bridges. That said, my real choice is the original BBOT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRedX Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 No idea how much the ABM bridge costs. The two basses I have it on came with it fitted already. I have to say it's like the Schaller but a bit more elegant (subjective I know) and is slot loading so you don't have to worry about threading very fat strings through holes they might not fit into. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvin Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 I like slot loading bridges. As for the choice of Schaller, Gotoh and Badass...it would be a Gotoh for me purely on how they look. They just look well made and like proper engineering. I really don't like the look of those big Badass bridges on Fender style basses, it looks out of balance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BanditSid Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 I bought a Schaller 2000 bridge from a member here a few years back and just transferred it to my MIM jazz bass this afternoon. It is really well made, solid and fully adjustable. The difference in the sound is noticeable - as it was on the bass it was fitted to previously.......I've not seen many of them around but they are definitely worth looking at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRedX Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 [quote name='BanditSid' timestamp='1376851600' post='2179984'] I bought a Schaller 2000 bridge from a member here a few years back and just transferred it to my MIM jazz bass this afternoon. It is really well made, solid and fully adjustable. The difference in the sound is noticeable - as it was on the bass it was fitted to previously.......I've not seen many of them around but they are definitely worth looking at. [/quote] I have one of these on a Hartke XL-4 Bass. Terrible design IMO and I can't see what advantages it offers over the 3D other than the opportunity to spend much longer setting up the string spacing and intonation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urban Bassman Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 I'm thinking about a Gotch B201 for my P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 Had the Gotoh, the cheapo Gotoh copies, a Badass, and the winner for me by a mile is the Schaller 3D. Comfy if your hand rests on it, the spacing adjustment is really handy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BanditSid Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 [quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1376852112' post='2179992'] I have one of these on a Hartke XL-4 Bass. Terrible design IMO and I can't see what advantages it offers over the 3D other than the opportunity to spend much longer setting up the string spacing and intonation. [/quote] I agree about it being difficult to setup, especially the intonation adjustment, but I got it at a good price so it's worth the hassle over a new bridge at a much higher price. Once it is setup it can be left alone for the most part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NJE Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 (edited) I just fitted a Hipshot B style to my Jazz bass, beautifully made piece of kit, comes in aluminium or brass. I used to have a schaller 2000 series on an old bass, again really good bridge but I found it overly fiddly. Also previously had a Badass V on a Jazz, I thought it was awful, badly cast saddles and base plate, absolute rubbish compared to the Schaller and Hipshot but I could have just had a bad one. Edited August 19, 2013 by NJE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neepheid Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 (edited) Between those three? The Schaller (specifically the 3D). I have one on my Gibson IV. Adjustment every which way you want and not obtrusive in design with nicely rounded off edges. Edited August 19, 2013 by neepheid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChickenKiev Posted August 20, 2013 Author Share Posted August 20, 2013 (edited) Thanks for the help guys. So most of you are saying the Schaller 3D. I'll say it again because I don't think anyone has seen my later post. I was asking about the holes in the back of the bridges for putting the strings through. How big are they specifically on the Schaller? I use two basses for my band with drop C and drop B tunings. With my current bridge I've had to drill holes to fit the heavy gauge strings (45-105 for C and 50-110 for B ) through the back. I don't mind doing it with the Schaller but I'd rather not if I can avoid it if you know what I mean. Edited August 20, 2013 by ChickenKiev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRedX Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 You get away with a 110 for B? You must have the lightest touch ever! IMO 110 isn't a B string it's a heavy E. I need at least 128 for B. According to the [url=http://guitar-bridge.com/hp135061/Bassbridge-3D-4.htm]technical drawing[/url] on the Schaller web site the holes for the strings are 4.6mm in diameter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChickenKiev Posted August 20, 2013 Author Share Posted August 20, 2013 [quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1376985035' post='2181696'] You get away with a 110 for B? You must have the lightest touch ever! IMO 110 isn't a B string it's a heavy E. I need at least 128 for B. According to the [url=http://guitar-bridge.com/hp135061/Bassbridge-3D-4.htm]technical drawing[/url] on the Schaller web site the holes for the strings are 4.6mm in diameter. [/quote] I don't have the softest touch to be honest! It gives a kinda clanky, slightly buzzy sound (not too much buzz though. None of my fretted notes get choked or anything like that). It's more like a buzz saw than a smooth, creamy tone. I usually EQ with a bit more bass to give it the required oomph. Because admittedly it's a little thin-sounding without. All in all it sounds surprisingly rather nice when running your bass through a distortion pedal, in my opinion. Plus I can bend the first fret to buggery, which is handy in my genre as a lot of it has binary tab . I can get some good vibrato. It's not everyone's thing but it serves me well for the music my band write and play . I'll find the diameter of the strings I use and see if that'll fit in the Schaller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRedX Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 Well a 110 gauge string should be 110 thousandths of an inch which is roughly 2.8mm. The ends will be slightly thicker where the ball end is attached and if there is a silk wrap but it is unlikely to add another 1.8mm to the diameter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChickenKiev Posted August 20, 2013 Author Share Posted August 20, 2013 (edited) Right well my current bridge must have had like 2.0mm holes before I drilled them. It's a cheap and nasty thing. Cost me about £18..lulz. Only bought it because it looked cool. I didn't know any better at the time. So I'm okay to go ahead and spend my pennies on the Schaller? Edited August 20, 2013 by ChickenKiev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fionn Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 [quote name='ChickenKiev' timestamp='1377018232' post='2182295'] So I'm okay to go ahead and spend my pennies on the Schaller? [/quote] Do it! it's an excellent piece of kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discreet Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 Is the Schaller a straight replacement on a Fender? Or do you need to drill extra holes..? From what I can see it's a three-hole fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fionn Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 [quote name='discreet' timestamp='1377109695' post='2183528'] Is the Schaller a straight replacement on a Fender? Or do you need to drill extra holes..? From what I can see it's a three-hole fitting. [/quote] No, it's not a straight replacement on a Fender. The 3D bridge has 3 screw positions which [u]don't[/u] line up with those on a Fender bass. You would need to drill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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