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Nitromors


Gust0o
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Seeing as it was Sunday, I thought it would be a good time to start on my latest project. As it's raining, time to retire to the shed and get some paint off!

This was my first time using Nitromors. So, apply, without brushing out; re-apply after 10 mins; wait 40 and "removed blistered paint"...

Except there was no blistered paint, nothing. It didn't even make a scratch, didn't lift anything.

Am I missing a trick here?

Seeing as that wasted hour left me with many more to kill, I reverted to more old fashioned labour to remove the paint - but shouldn't the Nitromors have helped?

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here's a helpful quote from manchester guitartech -

"Chemicals. I have had success with Nitromors. Although it won’t touch the top finish on most modern guitars, it will go for the sealer coat. I get best results by smothering bodies in Nitromors, wrapping them in plastic (so that the solvent doesn’t evaporate too quickly) and leaving them overnight. It might take a couple of goes but does work in my experience. Be aware that Nitromorse will also dissolve plastic binding so don’t use on bound bodies. The alternatives (sanding and a heat gun) risk damaging the body and are a last resort, in my opinion."

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[quote name='Count Bassy' post='1308721' date='Jul 19 2011, 02:29 AM']Don't want to teach granny etc, but treat Nitromoors with respect. A bit on the hands/arms only takes 15 seconds or so before you feel it, so you really don't want this stuff in your eyes. Wear safety specs![/quote]
Goggles preferably - specs tend to have gaps .

TBH, the Green tin is fairly innocuous if you get it on your hands, & a quick rinse under the cold tap soon gets rid of it.

However... the Yellow tin is a much more dangerous animal. You'll know if you've got any on you as it won't just tingle a bit, it'll get rather uncomfortable very quickly.

TOP TIP - DON'T use water, it has no effect; instead have some white spirit/turps sub handy and make like Our 'Enry & splash it all over.

Don't clean brushes out in hot water either, Methylene Chloride (aka Dichloromethane) fumes readily when warmed up & it'll do you no good at all. Don't even think about putting any newspaper/rags etc on a bonfire. I did it [u]once[/u], never again (shades of Dulce Et Decorum Est*).

Pete.

[size=1][color="#808080"]*Google it.[/color][/size]

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I've had many recommendations for this company: [url="http://www.stripperspaintremovers.com/"]http://www.stripperspaintremovers.com/[/url]

Mostly in the context of removing different types of paints and varnishes when renovating old houses, but I don't see why a guitar should be particularly different. Might be worth giving them a call.

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[quote name='flyfisher' post='1308796' date='Jul 19 2011, 09:07 AM']Mostly in the context of removing different types of paints and varnishes when renovating old houses, but I don't see why a guitar should be particularly different.[/quote]

Not much in home decor is done using catalysed poly finish. Think it is more related to cars, and car tips may give you problems due to cars not being made of wood.

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[quote name='Gust0o' post='1307238' date='Jul 17 2011, 11:14 PM']Seeing as it was Sunday, I thought it would be a good time to start on my latest project. As it's raining, time to retire to the shed and get some paint off!

This was my first time using Nitromors. So, apply, without brushing out; re-apply after 10 mins; wait 40 and "removed blistered paint"...

Except there was no blistered paint, nothing. It didn't even make a scratch, didn't lift anything.

Am I missing a trick here?

Seeing as that wasted hour left me with many more to kill, I reverted to more old fashioned labour to remove the paint - but shouldn't the Nitromors have helped?[/quote]


I's not as powerful as the description suggests...
Steel wool helps A LOT! Get some. You'll clean up the finish easily, but the sealer will stay in place :)

I was/am stripping a body, you can read what i tried and the results here:

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=132931&hl=Ryder"]Stripping a Sue Ryder bass body[/url]

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