Gust0o Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Seeing as it was Sunday, I thought it would be a good time to start on my latest project. As it's raining, time to retire to the shed and get some paint off! This was my first time using Nitromors. So, apply, without brushing out; re-apply after 10 mins; wait 40 and "removed blistered paint"... Except there was no blistered paint, nothing. It didn't even make a scratch, didn't lift anything. Am I missing a trick here? Seeing as that wasted hour left me with many more to kill, I reverted to more old fashioned labour to remove the paint - but shouldn't the Nitromors have helped? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_5 Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 I used some on a project a while ago. IT removed one layer of unlaquered paint. I think the claims on the tin are somewhat exaggerated. Elbow grease never fails - it also builds bigger triceps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gust0o Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 It's on par with Chemical Ali in terms of claims on the basis of this morning's performance! I'm going to have arms like Popeye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blademan_98 Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Sometimes, you have to leave it a while...... Also, it is not too good on laquer It is good on painted pine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bumnote Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 there are different types of nitromors and it depends on the paint on the item. I tried every paint stripper on the market on an old tokai and nothing touched it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry_B Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 Nitromors also do a varnish remover which may be more up to the task - it's powerful stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbyrne Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 Generally speaking the only thing that removes a poly finish is sandpaper & elbow grease....... G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Vader Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 Get the orange tin, specialist it's called. Does polyurethane. Will get through the clear, and most of the colour coats on a poly finish. Won't doa thing to the sealer however, and there will still be a lot of elbow grease. But it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cycrowave Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 here's a helpful quote from manchester guitartech - "Chemicals. I have had success with Nitromors. Although it won’t touch the top finish on most modern guitars, it will go for the sealer coat. I get best results by smothering bodies in Nitromors, wrapping them in plastic (so that the solvent doesn’t evaporate too quickly) and leaving them overnight. It might take a couple of goes but does work in my experience. Be aware that Nitromorse will also dissolve plastic binding so don’t use on bound bodies. The alternatives (sanding and a heat gun) risk damaging the body and are a last resort, in my opinion." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Count Bassy Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 Don't want to teach granny etc, but treat Nitromoors with respect. A bit on the hands/arms only takes 15 seconds or so before you feel it, so you really don't want this stuff in your eyes. Wear safety specs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloodaxe Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 [quote name='Count Bassy' post='1308721' date='Jul 19 2011, 02:29 AM']Don't want to teach granny etc, but treat Nitromoors with respect. A bit on the hands/arms only takes 15 seconds or so before you feel it, so you really don't want this stuff in your eyes. Wear safety specs![/quote] Goggles preferably - specs tend to have gaps . TBH, the Green tin is fairly innocuous if you get it on your hands, & a quick rinse under the cold tap soon gets rid of it. However... the Yellow tin is a much more dangerous animal. You'll know if you've got any on you as it won't just tingle a bit, it'll get rather uncomfortable very quickly. TOP TIP - DON'T use water, it has no effect; instead have some white spirit/turps sub handy and make like Our 'Enry & splash it all over. Don't clean brushes out in hot water either, Methylene Chloride (aka Dichloromethane) fumes readily when warmed up & it'll do you no good at all. Don't even think about putting any newspaper/rags etc on a bonfire. I did it [u]once[/u], never again (shades of Dulce Et Decorum Est*). Pete. [size=1][color="#808080"]*Google it.[/color][/size] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfisher Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 I've had many recommendations for this company: [url="http://www.stripperspaintremovers.com/"]http://www.stripperspaintremovers.com/[/url] Mostly in the context of removing different types of paints and varnishes when renovating old houses, but I don't see why a guitar should be particularly different. Might be worth giving them a call. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 [quote name='flyfisher' post='1308796' date='Jul 19 2011, 09:07 AM']Mostly in the context of removing different types of paints and varnishes when renovating old houses, but I don't see why a guitar should be particularly different.[/quote] Not much in home decor is done using catalysed poly finish. Think it is more related to cars, and car tips may give you problems due to cars not being made of wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRedX Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 I've heard that some of the more chemically vigourous paint strippers can also adversely affect the glue used to joint the various pieces of wood that make up the body... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcnach Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 [quote name='Gust0o' post='1307238' date='Jul 17 2011, 11:14 PM']Seeing as it was Sunday, I thought it would be a good time to start on my latest project. As it's raining, time to retire to the shed and get some paint off! This was my first time using Nitromors. So, apply, without brushing out; re-apply after 10 mins; wait 40 and "removed blistered paint"... Except there was no blistered paint, nothing. It didn't even make a scratch, didn't lift anything. Am I missing a trick here? Seeing as that wasted hour left me with many more to kill, I reverted to more old fashioned labour to remove the paint - but shouldn't the Nitromors have helped?[/quote] I's not as powerful as the description suggests... Steel wool helps A LOT! Get some. You'll clean up the finish easily, but the sealer will stay in place I was/am stripping a body, you can read what i tried and the results here: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=132931&hl=Ryder"]Stripping a Sue Ryder bass body[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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