How to give your bass the best set up

[dc2009]

Hi all,

This is borne out of the need to properly re-set up my Warwick, who had a low B put on her for the first time in a year today, but I thought I could make it vaguely useful and generic, and if someone could provide a comprehensive list it could even perhaps do with stickying?

Personally, the problems on my Warwick are;
Truss rod needs adjusting (I have the tool just no idea even which way to turn it or why I should or should not do it).
Nut/Bridge needs adjusting. There is fret buzz from the B, especially when played open, despite the fact that the action is quite high at the bridge, as it does not fully sit right in the saddle as the others do.
The intonation is out on a couple of the strings (not by much), which way do the thingies in the saddles need to be turned for various pitches?
Is there anything that can be done to make the B sit properly in the saddle?

So how do I do all/any of the above? I've been shown some of them at some point, but am aware that getting them wrong can make things worse rather than better.
And in a more general sense, what are the other main things to look out for when setting up a bass, and is there a routine/order/method that you would describe as foolproof and also the best?

Dan

Edited May 27, 2011 by dc2009

[markstuk]

lots of online help.. good start something like this [url="http://garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/setupmanual.html"]http://garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/setupmanual.html[/url] or [url="http://www.scribd.com/doc/24388474/Bass-Setup-Guide"]http://www.scribd.com/doc/24388474/Bass-Setup-Guide[/url]

But it sounds like the slot for the B string in the nut needs filing (or adjusting if the Warwick nut is adjustable)...

Edited May 27, 2011 by markstuk

[xilddx]

Read this carefully and follow it. Everything you need is in here [url="http://www.warwick.de/media/manuals/Basses/WWBassManual_EN.pdf?cl=EN"]http://www.warwick.de/media/manuals/Basses...al_EN.pdf?cl=EN[/url]

[Ghost_Bass]

Take a look at this page:
[url="http://www.jerzydrozdbasses.com/akcndfr54jdhrei567/Ultimate_Guide_ver100.pdf"]http://www.jerzydrozdbasses.com/akcndfr54j...uide_ver100.pdf[/url]
...this is the best one i've found on the web.

[bubinga5]

learn it or take it to a tech... this is the best online bass that ive seen... set up from Carl Pedigo's Lakland.. there is 2 parts to this..

[url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIzV9462xeE"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIzV9462xeE[/url]

[lozbass]

Of course, it's a good idea to have a functional understanding and some practical experience (and the guides noted above are excellent). However, I'd take the bass to Martin at the Gallery. You can be learning the basics on-line whilst he gives your instrument a first rate set-up

[EssentialTension]

[quote name='bubinga5' post='1247455' date='May 27 2011, 06:37 PM']learn it or take it to a tech... this is the best online bass that ive seen... set up from Carl Pedigo's Lakland.. there is 2 parts to this..

[url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIzV9462xeE"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIzV9462xeE[/url][/quote]
Carl Pedigo makes it look as easy as it is.

[markstuk]

Another thought is to ask someone on here who lives close to you to run through the process with you slowly in exchange for a future favour/beer/food/beer tokens?

[Mr. Foxen]

[quote name='markstuk' post='1247948' date='May 28 2011, 09:53 AM']Another thought is to ask someone on here who lives close to you to run through the process with you slowly in exchange for a future favour/beer/food/beer tokens?[/quote]

I'll do this for anyone round Bristol. I like ales.

[dc2009]

Great thought markstuk. Anyone else in SW London (earl's court - very accessible) or nearby?

This is something I'd rather learn as a skill than just give to a shop every time, I'm also an impoverished student (largely because of GAS and low self-discipline) so would rather not splash out on a pro-set up.

On another note, my Sansamp got here today, and oh my god I understand why everyone raves about the things, by far the best bit of kit I own, it blew me away. It even makes my playing sound better!

[xilddx]

Assuming your bass is in decent nick, the neck's not warped, and the truss rod does not need much force to turn it, try the following.

Fret the low string at the first fret, use a capo if you've got one. at the same time fret the same string at the twelfth fret. there should be a tiny gap between the string and the 6th, 7th and 8th frets. If it's more than about 0.5mm you could tighten your truss rod a 8th of a turn at a time until the gap is tiny. If there is no gap, loosen an 8th of a turn. Righty Tighty / Lefty Loosey looking along the neck from the end you are adjusting the truss rod at. DO NOT FORCE IT! If it does not want to move, take it to a good music shop with a good repairer. When you've got the gap right you'll probably have the right relief on your neck. Sight down the neck from the body end, in a playing position, the neck should have a slight concave bow in it, away from the strings. Bolt-ons can develop a slight S shaped relief due to the rigidity near where they join the body. To get a very low action you will probably need a fret level in this case. Even my Warwick 'vette had this.

Then adjust the bridge saddles until you can play all the strings at all the frets without getting more than a little fret buzz when played firmly. Any proud frets should make themselves apparent by buzzing more than others. Remember it will be the fret above the one you have fretted the string on. You could then try leveling it with a stone or a fret file but take it to a good shop if you're not confident.

Disclaimer: if you force the truss rod when it doesn't want to move, and it breaks off or you damage your instrument in some way, it is not going to be my fault

Edited May 30, 2011 by silddx

[dc2009]

[quote name='silddx' post='1248457' date='May 28 2011, 05:34 PM']Assuming your bass is in decent nick, the neck's not warped, and the truss rod does not need much force to turn it, try the following.

Fret the low string at the first fret, use a capo if you've got one. at the same time fret the same string at the twelfth fret. there should be a tiny gap between the string and the 6th, 7th and 8th frets. If it's more than about 0.5m you could tighten your truss rod a 8th of a turn at a time until the gap is tiny. If there is no gap, loosen an 8th of a turn. Righty Tighty / Lefty Loosey looking along the neck from the end you are adjusting the truss rod at. DO NOT FORCE IT! If it does not want to move, take it to a good music shop with a good repairer. When you've got the gap right you'll probably have the right relief on your neck. Sight down the neck from the body end, in a playing position, the neck should have a slight concave bow in it, away from the strings. Bolt-ons can develop a slight S shaped relief due to the rigidity near where they join the body. To get a very low action you will probably need a fret level in this case. Even my Warwick 'vette had this.

Then adjust the bridge saddles until you can play all the strings at all the frets without getting more than a little fret buzz when played firmly. Any proud frets should make themselves apparent by buzzing more than others. Remember it will be the fret above the one you have fretted the string on. You could then try leveling it with a stone or a fret file but take it to a good shop if you're not confident.

Disclaimer: if you force the truss rod when it doesn't want to move, and it breaks off or you damage your instrument in some way, it is not going to be my fault [/quote]

Thank you Siddx, disclaimer duly noted. I will do all this when my exams are over in a fortnight, and I have a thumping headache.

[Lfalex v1.1]

The Warwick truss-rod tools are very good/robust. Only thing is, they make it very easy to apply LOTS of torque to your truss-rod. Tighten/loosen with care, and work in 45 degree increments(an eighth of a turn) or less so as not to overdo it..

[Prime_BASS]

Buzzes while open?

Do you have a good break angle from the nut to stingpost? This usually cuases buzzing, no matter how high the action is. As there isn't enough tension to pull the string enough to raise it above the first fret.

[Soliloquy]

Speaking from personal experience. I would be a little careful when adjusting a Warwick bass truss rod. The bit that the adjusting tool fits into is made from aluminium, and is very soft. I had a Thumb bass last year that ended up needing a new truss rod.

I'm not trying to scare the OP here.

It does seem to be a common problem with them, have a look on the Warwick bass forum and you'll see what I mean.

Edited May 30, 2011 by Soliloquy

[stevie]

[quote name='silddx' post='1248457' date='May 28 2011, 05:34 PM']Fret the low string at the first fret, use a capo if you've got one. at the same time fret the same string at the twelfth fret. there should be a tiny gap between the string and the 6th, 7th and 8th frets. If it's more than about 0.5m you could tighten your truss rod a 8th of a turn at a time until the gap is tiny.[/quote]
I think you mean 0.5cm.

[xilddx]

[quote name='stevie' post='1250448' date='May 30 2011, 04:28 PM']I think you mean 0.5cm. [/quote]
No, I didn't. I meant 0.5mm

[Soliloquy]

[quote name='silddx' post='1250468' date='May 30 2011, 04:49 PM']No, I didn't. I meant 0.5mm [/quote]

He definitely didn't.

You really wouldn't want it to be 5mm with the string fretted at both ends, the action would be way too high.

[xilddx]

[quote name='Soliloquy' post='1250431' date='May 30 2011, 04:07 PM']Speaking from personal experience. I would be a little careful when adjusting a Warwick bass truss rod. The bit that the adjusting tool fits into is made from aluminium, and is very soft. I had a Thumb bass last year that ended up needing a new truss rod.

I'm not trying to scare the OP here.

It does seem to be a common problem with them, have a look on the Warwick bass forum and you'll see what I mean.[/quote]
Not all Warwick truss rods are created equal I have never had any issues of this nature with four Warwicks I've had. And I messed with the truss rods quite a lot.

[Telebass]

All this is good stuff. The only thing I find better is to sight the neck from the head end.

[stevie]

[quote name='silddx' post='1250468' date='May 30 2011, 04:49 PM']No, I didn't. I meant 0.5mm [/quote]
Doh! I preferred it when they used rods and perches.

[warwickhunt]

[quote name='silddx' post='1250548' date='May 30 2011, 05:47 PM']Not all Warwick truss rods are created equal I have never had any issues of this nature with four Warwicks I've had. And I messed with the truss rods quite a lot.[/quote]
+1 I've owned... LOADS of Warwicks ( ) and I have to say that despite hearing of the dreaded truss rod affliction that wrecks Warwick basses, I've yet to have issue with a rod. Actually, I take that back; I had one Warwick that the owner had used a cheap badly fitting allen key on and it did chew the adjuster a bit... mainly because the plonker hadn't sussed in the first 1/8 - 1/4 of a twist that the rod acted in reverse to the norm. The bass came to me with the biggest bow/highest action in the world and a disgruntled owner professing that he couldn't twist the rod any further no matter how hard he tried! 5 minutes later after relaxing the rod right off (using a good quality allen key and some care), I had a flat fingerboard and a stammering owner standing next to me professing that it was all the fault of the manufacturer.

[dc2009]

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='1251239' date='May 31 2011, 11:20 AM']+1 I've owned... LOADS of Warwicks ( ) and I have to say that despite hearing of the dreaded truss rod affliction that wrecks Warwick basses, I've yet to have issue with a rod. Actually, I take that back; I had one Warwick that the owner had used a cheap badly fitting allen key on and it did chew the adjuster a bit... mainly because the plonker hadn't sussed in the first 1/8 - 1/4 of a twist that the rod acted in reverse to the norm. The bass came to me with the biggest bow/highest action in the world and a disgruntled owner professing that he couldn't twist the rod any further no matter how hard he tried! 5 minutes later after relaxing the rod right off (using a good quality allen key and some care), I had a flat fingerboard and a stammering owner standing next to me professing that it was all the fault of the manufacturer.[/quote]

Man, that infinity is gorgeous....

[dan670844]

[quote name='dc2009' post='1247422' date='May 27 2011, 06:13 PM']Hi all,

This is borne out of the need to properly re-set up my Warwick, who had a low B put on her for the first time in a year today, but I thought I could make it vaguely useful and generic, and if someone could provide a comprehensive list it could even perhaps do with stickying?

Personally, the problems on my Warwick are;
Truss rod needs adjusting (I have the tool just no idea even which way to turn it or why I should or should not do it).
Nut/Bridge needs adjusting. There is fret buzz from the B, especially when played open, despite the fact that the action is quite high at the bridge, as it does not fully sit right in the saddle as the others do.
The intonation is out on a couple of the strings (not by much), which way do the thingies in the saddles need to be turned for various pitches?
Is there anything that can be done to make the B sit properly in the saddle?

So how do I do all/any of the above? I've been shown some of them at some point, but am aware that getting them wrong can make things worse rather than better.
And in a more general sense, what are the other main things to look out for when setting up a bass, and is there a routine/order/method that you would describe as foolproof and also the best?

Dan[/quote]


Best thing you can do is get it set up on a Plek machine, as it would have been when it left the warwick factory there are only three in the UK at Chandler's, Charlies place and another but I am sure someone will fill it in!! Sounds like the frets need a good reprofile, and once that is done a good truss and intonation setup. It will play like a dream then. Its an expensive bass, its worth spending a few quid on it to get it right. For the other reasons mentioned by other posters, I would never do my own setup on a warwick or any other neck through for that matter, its a big pain if you bugger the truss rods on them, and warwick ones are a little tempremental. Hey you just made me look in the back of the cupboard, I know there a 5gang streamer in there somewhere, maybe i will get it out ..............

Edited June 1, 2011 by dan670844

[dc2009]

[quote name='dan670844' post='1253092' date='Jun 1 2011, 08:06 PM']Best thing you can do is get it set up on a Plek machine, as it would have been when it left the warwick factory there are only three in the UK at Chandler's, Charlies place and another but I am sure someone will fill it in!! Sounds like the frets need a good reprofile, and once that is done a good truss and intonation setup. It will play like a dream then. Its an expensive bass, its worth spending a few quid on it to get it right. For the other reasons mentioned by other posters, I would never do my own setup on a warwick or any other neck through for that matter, its a big pain if you bugger the truss rods on them, and warwick ones are a little tempremental. Hey you just made me look in the back of the cupboard, I know there a 5gang streamer in there somewhere, maybe i will get it out ..............[/quote]

Whatever was she doing in the back of the cupboard? Go get her out and give her a good rub down!

That seems like a good idea. And I think a fret reprofile might be smart, they've always seemed quite high to me, never been able to get that low an action.

How much would a set up like this (on a Plek machine) likely cost, a ballpark figure will do.