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EBS_freak

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by EBS_freak

  1. [quote name='Charla' timestamp='1323276516' post='1461497'] Started a topic in Repairs / Technical issues re a new version Dynaverb where the metal reverb type switch has broken. Emailed EBS and waiting for a reply; I'm interested in any information you may get re repairs etc. If I'd seen this I would have just tagged on my question! Cheers Charla [/quote] That's the first I've heard of the select switch breaking but thats defo one to source from EBS I would have thought.
  2. which one on the website?
  3. PS take some pics and post to the porn thread - there is a distinct lack of photos of this bass!
  4. Nice one! Enjoy!
  5. composite? as in graphite - I've got a Status and the instructions say clean it with WD40 I seem to recall?!
  6. I have been waiting to see this in the flesh for ages. Not tried one although I am intrigued as they seem to tick a lot of the boxes.
  7. Who has this now then?
  8. That 350 was a steal. Damn. Wish I had paid attention to your signature now!
  9. Hope there's not a huge influx of DOAs. Thats not exactly a good start is it?
  10. Not much out there - best I could find was [url="http://www.cpcases.com/uploads/SatRack.pdf"]http://www.cpcases.com/uploads/SatRack.pdf[/url]
  11. You didn't say which generation pedal you have - but the problem got worse when they moved to the PCB surface mounted switch. The original Swedish non true bypass versions were superior in the fact that they have flying cables going to the switch which meant any duff switches could be replaced easily. Now that the switches on the true bypass versions are soldered directly to the board, it makes replacement very difficult unless you have some smart arsed solder sucker. You're just as well getting a new switch (make sure it will fit in the cavity between the pedal top and the circuit inside) and attach it to the circuit using flying leads after you have cut the existing switch out. It's a cost cutting exercise that has become a pain in the arse. I much prefer the original non true bypass versions - and this cheap switch failing annoyance is just one of the reasons why. Never experienced distortion, erratic behaviour or anything like that though...
  12. <text irrelevant. look left>
  13. <text irrelevant. look left>
  14. Yup. Felt the same for the past year. Generally can't be arsed to post anymore. Anyway, it's the same old crud that is being recycled and talked about again and again and again in the bass sections... (there seems to be a finite number of popular discussions) and as for off topic, well, I've learnt that anything interesting ends up in a lock... so can't be arsed there either. Forum has changed a lot over the years - for example, a lot of the older more entertaining members are no longer found anywhere. I guess that's the evolution of the forum. And yeah, the new bloatware is annoying.
  15. [url="http://luminlay.com/indexen.html"]http://luminlay.com/indexen.html[/url] is another option...
  16. [quote name='Chris2112' timestamp='1321797588' post='1443084'] I find that I really enjoy Bartolini pickups. They're not super bright, hi-fi pickups so if you're looking for a slap machine they wouldn't be much first choice. But they have such a musical voicing, especially in the midrange. Very enjoyable indeed. I also really like EMG's too, but again they are a very different sound. [/quote] You see, this is another internet myth. Bartolini is often being quoted as being dark sounding with a rolled top end. I've got a Jazz bass here with Barts in that will take your head off with the amount of treble that is on tap... and that's in a passive bass.
  17. My username gives it away for me but you really should be auditioning them to see which you like the best.. and then take into account the difference in price and then size and weight. What sort of sound are you looking for?
  18. I don't think it's shipping yet. I find shipping dates from EBS always a little optimistic! I suspect that £450 is about the right price. You investigated the classic 450 with your existing cabs?
  19. Glad you got sorted out. (And you've seen the EBS light huzzah!)
  20. [quote name='pete.young' timestamp='1321291122' post='1437400'] My respect for Eric Johnson went down a notch or two when I heard that he thinks he can tell which brand of battery is in his effects pedals. [/quote] ..and which way round a resistor is in an effects pedal. PS - I'm good at telling "dead" batteries in an effects pedal.
  21. It must be good. It's got a BadAss on it.
  22. [quote name='fretmeister' timestamp='1320930234' post='1433286'] The link is for a bolt on. Not the neck through, ebony board inlayed version. Nice to see the shape getting to the cheaper ones though. [/quote] Ha ha - missed the lack of inlays completely! Yup, looks like Warwick have put out a more affordable version to mop up the Zender fans!
  23. [quote name='charic' timestamp='1320929764' post='1433273'] You sure? [url="http://www.rock-gear.de/en/Guitar-Bass/Basses/4-String-Bass-Guitars/Warwick-Stuart-Zender-Artist-Series.html?"]http://www.rock-gear...st-Series.html?[/url] [/quote] That's not the same is it? It's got chrome hardware for starters... Is the "real" signature tn too?
  24. [quote name='Fat Rich' timestamp='1320858997' post='1432424'] I find I can set my Status necks to a low action and they'll stay there whatever the temperature, moisture levels, time of year. I can also set my Fender and my Stingray neck equally low but after 4 or five months when the seasons change (or more likely when the central heating dries out the air) I need to give them a tweak again. Maybe mine are more sensitive to moisture because I've gone through the finish on the back of the necks on most of the Fenders and the Stingray has that oily finish rather than lacquer. [/quote] Fair enough point... but an odd truss rod tweak doesn't scare me - although I understand others are reluctant to touch it. The point I was trying to emphasise is that a graphite neck is not essential to get low action.
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