Muppet

Sounds like a good idea. Would like to know how you get on with it.

[quote name='Happy Jack' post='199125' date='May 14 2008, 10:26 PM']From memory, it said either 425 or 450 on the front. I could easily be wrong. I think I was using the [i]FX Send[/i] socket. I'm really not very good with electricity (I'm always worried that it will drip out of the sockets and ruin the carpet) but even I know better than to plug head/earphones into a [i]Speaker Out[/i] socket. [/quote] Many apologies, didn't mean to suggest you didn't know what you were doing, I just couldn't think of any other way - my mistake. Sounds like you were actually using a SVT-450H and the effects loop is in series so when you use the send, it breaks the signal path (I don't think the volume on the head would have affected your monitoring if this is the case). The preamp out socket would also have done what you experienced, so two output signals, both cutting the signal to the cab, exactly as you say. The only way you could have done in IMO is to use the XLR line out. The other SVTs loops are wired in parallel I believe and they have things like tuner outs that you could use.

It's all about having headroom. I have 1200w. I don't need it of course. Never have. But I like knowing it's there. Comfort headroom if you like.

I know Ampeg heads pretty well and none of the SVT range has a headphone out socket as far as I'm aware. Even though you don't specify the model I can only imagine that you might have plugged in to the 1/4" speaker out whilst the cab was connected to the speakon. This disconnects the speakon (and therefore the cab) but putting this signal in to your monitoring unit is NOT recommended. I would have thought it would be WAY too hot. I can't think of any other 1/4" socket that you could plug in to that would disconnect the cab and still provide you with a signal.

Maybe it's not the best situation? I mean, a borrowed rig, unsure of what to expect, little time to experiment with the sound etc.... I'm not trying to stick up for Ashdown but in those circumstances it's often not possible to make an objective assessment.

Kevin Spacey's got a point though! Weeks of licence payers money spent on advertising Lloyd Webber's latest rehash, whilst serious productions get nothing...

[quote name='thumbo' post='196236' date='May 10 2008, 09:43 PM']Can you elaborate on this please- When you say range what do you mean? My Bassdrive has become an essential part of my rig, talk of this 18v powering excites me! [/quote] Sure The trademark sound from the unit is much the same but there's a greater range in that the transition from clean to fully overdriven if that makes sense so fine tuning is much easier. essentially you can get more variations in a distored sound. Also with 18v it's much cleaner or clearer than on 9v and there're much more headroom available on both the regular and boosted channel. Don't get me wrong though, 9v is excellent, I'm not suggesting that the pedal underperforms with 9v, cos it doesn't.

I think using the video to determine the quality of the B string is a little difficult. even with the best headphones or speakers in the world you're still at the mercy of the limitations of the original recording device and then the compression used on YouTube. I can't argue with using your own ears, when playing one in person,mind! I'm in the market for one of these but would definitely want to play and hear it through an amp of my choice.

[quote name='dannybuoy' post='196152' date='May 10 2008, 06:23 PM']Isn't the Diago 18v adaptor just like a lead with a dc socket at one end and a plug at the other, so you can use it with any power supply that has a high enough current rating?[/quote] Just had a look at it and you're right so I guess the adaptor would work with any suitable power supply as you say.

[quote name='vegas_hooker' post='195585' date='May 9 2008, 05:34 PM']How would I do this? Im running mine 9v and it sounds great, but Id like to hear the difference. I dont have a Diago which I think Toasted mentioned has an add on for 18v (IIRC)[/quote] Yes It'll work on 9v obviously and it's good at that voltage but the range gets much better with 18v. I'm afraid I do use the Diago power supply with an 18v adaptor.

Make sure you power it with 18v and not 9v. Makes a whole load of difference.

Yes, very quick service and delivery in my experience. They are based in Germany but can invoice you in Sterling. As with all EC member states, there's no import duty to be paid, though they will include VAT. EDIT: not sure they invoice you in sterling, but they will quote you the sterling equivalent.

Don't worry it's not difficult, just the terminology is confusing. Soldering it all up is actually pretty simple too. You need 2 x pots. If you are ordering them then the Fender standard is '250k audio log'. Try to get ones manufactured by CTS. 1 x jack socket. Made by Switchcraft. 1 x 0.05uf capacitor. This is used for the tone circuit. Some wire - black and white usually! Bit of solder and a soldering iron. Most of your variation in tone will come from the types of pickups you are using, as well as string type and amp, rater than these parts.

[quote name='EBS_freak' post='193056' date='May 6 2008, 04:42 PM']Neotech bass strap. I love em.[/quote] I bought one of these too, on spec from my local music shop. I think they're brilliant and have swapped my Comfort Strapp for one as I fing them much more comfortable (only my opinion though). EDIT: I bought the Ax version rather than the Bass one, as it's slightly longer

There was a chap on here that had a set of pots wired to a control plate that he put up for sale. It wasn't a S1 switch but was wired to perform the same function. maybe he might be able to help you out. I found the thread, it's [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=14711&hl=S1"]here[/url]

Here you go - all on the Fender website, however, the S1 switch is specific to Fender and not a regular push-pull pot. Not that a regular push pull won't do the job cos it will.... [url="http://www.fender.com/support/diagrams/pdf_temp1/basses/0193460_62A/SD0193460_62APg2.pdf"]http://www.fender.com/support/diagrams/pdf...3460_62APg2.pdf[/url] Cheers Steve

didn't certain retailers offload a load of gear last year at very keen prices purely because they weren't ROHS compliant and wanted to get shot of the stock before they couldn't sell it any more? I'm sure I picked up some stuff as result. Interestly, I've recently imported some pickups from the States that have been stamped as ROHS compliant and also some that haven't been, though you'd need to have opened the parcel AND the packaging to work out which was which. Used gear I guess is another kettle of fish..

Yup, £70 round here too

If you consider a standard setup can cost £50 then £96 for the amount of work involved I think is a very good deal. It's by no means an easy job to get the colour matched correctly and and least you'll know it's been done properly.

[quote name='Neil H' post='189185' date='Apr 30 2008, 08:02 PM']I presume I am looking for one that has a neck with a width of 1.75in at the nut?[/quote] Not necessarily Neil. Current Precision neck widths are 1.625in and have been for quite a while. Older 70s Precisions have a 1.750 neck width. The older ones I have had have also had a much shallower thickness so felt thinner back to front, so don't rule this out. For starters, I'd try out a current model Precision (within the last ten years or so) and decide whether you prefer it wider or thinner and also consider how deep the neck is. FWIW, I also prefer the Precision neck to a Jazz neck. My 4003 feels more Precision like than Jazz like, but it still feels a touch thinner than any of my Precisions. Have I confused matters? Steve