ikay

One of these? - [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/fender_control_plate_jbass.htm"]http://www.thomann.de/gb/fender_control_plate_jbass.htm[/url]

Thanks, I found some on ebay here - [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Silicone-Non-Slip-Car-Dashboard-Pad-Sticky-Mat-Phone-Pen-Eyeglasses-Holder-/262495316187"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Silicone-Non-Slip-Car-Dashboard-Pad-Sticky-Mat-Phone-Pen-Eyeglasses-Holder-/262495316187[/url]

100mm on my '72 J

Hmm, the silicone pad sounds useful, can you provide a link?

Hmm interesting, thanks for doing that. The zoom certainly adds a huge amount of bottom end which emphasises the fundamental and puts it more in upright territory. I'm not sure my speakers would cope with that much low end movement!

I'm a novice on upright but have an old beater acoustic DB and an SLB200. The SLB only has the skeletal upper bout but it balances against the body just like the acoustic. I agree with Staggering on (me too!) about experimenting with different heights. I also use a hose clamp on the endpin. Good trick that as the endpin wingnut has a tendency to shear on these (I replaced mine with a machine bolt) so the hose clamp takes all the weight. One issue I did find was the upper bout/frame is very smooth and tended to slip on my shirt (or whatever) so I attached a strip of self adhesive neoprene rubber along the edge. Which solved that problem. I've tried A BSX, Eminence and various stick EUBs and IMO the SLB200 is ergonomically the closest to an acoustic upright of all these.

Thanks. I'd be interested to hear what a regular bass guitar sounds like using the upright setting. Any chance you could try that and post a demo? Probably expecting too much for it to sound much like an upright but you never know!

The key to this lies in the wiring of the passive blend and vol. The two pickups are presumably wired to the blend pot. There should be a single (hot) wire from the blend pot to the volume pot and then another wire from the vol pot to the output jack. Unsolder this last wire from the output jack and connect it to the black wire (preamp in). Then solder the grey wire (preamp out) to the output jack. Assuming the other preamp wires are all properly connected to treble/bass pots, ground and battery this should work. If it doesn't I'll delete this post and deny any involvement

Sounds good. Are the eq and balance knobs on the Zoom all at 12 o'clock in the demo?

Send it back?! Get another one made using the old one as a template? Tim at 'Scratch It' does a very good job at very reasonable rates - [url="http://www.originalscratchplates.com/"]http://www.originalscratchplates.com/[/url] . BTW I can't see your photo . . .

Emperor's new clothes? It looks real enough to me!

The Fender US string spacing system is horribly clunky and uneven. Personally I'd swap it out for something like a Hipshot A style which has properly adjustable spacing (little video here). You can get it in a 'Fender mount' version with compatible mounting holes and through body stringing. Alternatively swap the saddles for single groove saddles with 20mm spacing (eg Squier CV type)

Something like this but you need to measure the size of the hex nut - [url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/accessories-c14/tools-c50/allen-keys-and-wrenches-c51/truss-rod-wrench-5-16-inch-size-for-gibson-p671"]http://www.wdmusic.c...for-gibson-p671[/url]

Nothing goes much lower than a standard BBOT. Shimming is the answer

They don't come up that often so thought I'd mention it - [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rob-Allen-Mouse-30-Fretless-Bass-/322137996051"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rob-Allen-Mouse-30-Fretless-Bass-/322137996051[/url] I have one already, otherwise I'd have kept it to myself

Chiliwailer, who replied to your post in 'bass guitars', is very knowledgeable about vintage Fender. As he says, it's unlikely to be 1966 as the four digit code came later and was used in the early 70s. This was replaced by a 6 digit code from around 1974 so the last digit (which usually indicated the year) being a 6 is a bit of an oddity. Which I guess is why you're asking! Pics showing examples of 1966, 1974 and 1976 pickups attached for ref.

This thread has some useful tips (from post #4 onwards) - [url="https://www.talkbass.com/threads/hand-position-finger-choice-when-playing-fourths.1094371/"]https://www.talkbass.com/threads/hand-position-finger-choice-when-playing-fourths.1094371/[/url]

Yes, that will wire the pickup in parallel as per standard Stingray. SD wiring diagram here - [url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/wiring-diagrams"]http://www.seymourduncan.com/wiring-diagrams[/url]

[quote name='alyctes' timestamp='1464605070' post='3060664'] ... would reverse-headstock 34" B-strings sound less "flabby" than those on "conventional" Fender-style headstocks? [/quote] IME longer string lengths beyond the nut/bridge and shallower break angles usually result in a string feeling more 'compliant', so I'd expect the B on a reverse 5-inline headstock to feel more flabby rather than less flabby. Depending on what string tree configuration you have. With a full width string retainer (eg. like a Lakland 5) the break angle will be the same so you may not notice much difference either way.

The Hurley mute unit is very similar to the '6 Jaguar mute which is available as a separate kit - [url="http://darrenriley.com/store/fender-62-jaguar-mute-kit/"]http://darrenriley.c...aguar-mute-kit/[/url] This thread has more detail on installing the Jaguar mute (scroll down to pics) - [url="https://www.talkbass.com/threads/installing-a-jaguar-mute-on-a-p-bass.1021488/"]https://www.talkbass.com/threads/installing-a-jaguar-mute-on-a-p-bass.1021488/[/url]

The wiring diagram for the LB-100 ([url="http://www.glguitars.com/schematics/LB-100_schematic_blockdiagram.pdf"]http://www.glguitars...lockdiagram.pdf[/url]) shows a .022 cap which won't cut as much treble as a standard .047 (or .01) cap. It also has a treble bleed cap across the volume pot. Changing the tone cap and losing the bleed cap is an easy fix and should get you into regular P territory if that's your preference.

Could it be a microphonic pickup?

Haha, this was surely posted on 1 April or something - you are kidding aren't you?!

Hmm, that might well be the problem! Curiously the SR1000E schematic doesn't show an active/passive switch - [url="http://www2.ibanez.com/supportResources/wiring/2006/WB050007.pdf"]http://www2.ibanez.com/supportResources/wiring/2006/WB050007.pdf[/url]