ikay

Send it back?! Get another one made using the old one as a template? Tim at 'Scratch It' does a very good job at very reasonable rates - [url="http://www.originalscratchplates.com/"]http://www.originalscratchplates.com/[/url] . BTW I can't see your photo . . .

Emperor's new clothes? It looks real enough to me!

The Fender US string spacing system is horribly clunky and uneven. Personally I'd swap it out for something like a Hipshot A style which has properly adjustable spacing (little video here). You can get it in a 'Fender mount' version with compatible mounting holes and through body stringing. Alternatively swap the saddles for single groove saddles with 20mm spacing (eg Squier CV type)

Something like this but you need to measure the size of the hex nut - [url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/accessories-c14/tools-c50/allen-keys-and-wrenches-c51/truss-rod-wrench-5-16-inch-size-for-gibson-p671"]http://www.wdmusic.c...for-gibson-p671[/url]

Nothing goes much lower than a standard BBOT. Shimming is the answer

They don't come up that often so thought I'd mention it - [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rob-Allen-Mouse-30-Fretless-Bass-/322137996051"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rob-Allen-Mouse-30-Fretless-Bass-/322137996051[/url] I have one already, otherwise I'd have kept it to myself

Chiliwailer, who replied to your post in 'bass guitars', is very knowledgeable about vintage Fender. As he says, it's unlikely to be 1966 as the four digit code came later and was used in the early 70s. This was replaced by a 6 digit code from around 1974 so the last digit (which usually indicated the year) being a 6 is a bit of an oddity. Which I guess is why you're asking! Pics showing examples of 1966, 1974 and 1976 pickups attached for ref.

This thread has some useful tips (from post #4 onwards) - [url="https://www.talkbass.com/threads/hand-position-finger-choice-when-playing-fourths.1094371/"]https://www.talkbass.com/threads/hand-position-finger-choice-when-playing-fourths.1094371/[/url]

Yes, that will wire the pickup in parallel as per standard Stingray. SD wiring diagram here - [url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/wiring-diagrams"]http://www.seymourduncan.com/wiring-diagrams[/url]

[quote name='alyctes' timestamp='1464605070' post='3060664'] ... would reverse-headstock 34" B-strings sound less "flabby" than those on "conventional" Fender-style headstocks? [/quote] IME longer string lengths beyond the nut/bridge and shallower break angles usually result in a string feeling more 'compliant', so I'd expect the B on a reverse 5-inline headstock to feel more flabby rather than less flabby. Depending on what string tree configuration you have. With a full width string retainer (eg. like a Lakland 5) the break angle will be the same so you may not notice much difference either way.

The Hurley mute unit is very similar to the '6 Jaguar mute which is available as a separate kit - [url="http://darrenriley.com/store/fender-62-jaguar-mute-kit/"]http://darrenriley.c...aguar-mute-kit/[/url] This thread has more detail on installing the Jaguar mute (scroll down to pics) - [url="https://www.talkbass.com/threads/installing-a-jaguar-mute-on-a-p-bass.1021488/"]https://www.talkbass.com/threads/installing-a-jaguar-mute-on-a-p-bass.1021488/[/url]

The wiring diagram for the LB-100 ([url="http://www.glguitars.com/schematics/LB-100_schematic_blockdiagram.pdf"]http://www.glguitars...lockdiagram.pdf[/url]) shows a .022 cap which won't cut as much treble as a standard .047 (or .01) cap. It also has a treble bleed cap across the volume pot. Changing the tone cap and losing the bleed cap is an easy fix and should get you into regular P territory if that's your preference.

Could it be a microphonic pickup?

Haha, this was surely posted on 1 April or something - you are kidding aren't you?!

Hmm, that might well be the problem! Curiously the SR1000E schematic doesn't show an active/passive switch - [url="http://www2.ibanez.com/supportResources/wiring/2006/WB050007.pdf"]http://www2.ibanez.com/supportResources/wiring/2006/WB050007.pdf[/url]

Sorry yes orange. No the pic of the PCB doesn't help without a wiring diagram. What model and year is the bass? Wiring diagrams for some Ibanez basses (1994 to 2008) are available here - [url="http://www2.ibanez.com/support/wiringdiagrams"]http://www2.ibanez.com/support/wiringdiagrams[/url]

Looking at your first pic the DPDT switch also has a bare connecting wire from the middle (brown) terminal to the 'empty terminal beside the white wire. This all looks good. Selecting 'passive' connects the white wire directly to the jack (via the brown wire). Selecting 'active' connects the white wire to the red wire which should go to the input of the preamp. In this switch position the output of the preamp (purple) is connected to the jack (via the brown wire). I have no clue if the red and purple wires are connected the right way round to the preamp board! What is the Ibanez bass model and year?

How does your wiring compare with the attached pic?

This is probably what you have already but there are several schematics in this post - [url="http://music-electronics-forum.com/t35139/"]http://music-electronics-forum.com/t35139/[/url]

If you change the preamp bear in mind that you also have a piezo which won't be accommodated by a standard preamp configuration.

Probably best to contact Yamaha tech support. According to the TRB-P service manual there are four different pot types: Vol - 5KA (presumably 5K audio but that's an unusually small ohm value) Bal - 20KB (dual blend pot - presumably 20K lin) EQ - 50KW (same pot for T/M/B - presumably 50K lin) Piezo mix - 20KB (presumably 20K lin) So depends which one needs replacing. It's not clear from the tech notes whether the pots are mounted directly to the circuit board or not (in which case you'd need a different different type to a regular free standing pot)