Skybone

Surely one signature bass that should exist would have to be a Lakland Geezer Butler

[quote name='Toasted' timestamp='1386862651' post='2305592'] Is this the one with Dave Main in it? [/quote] It is... he's the only person to get sub-titles!

Theoretically, it should be possible... if you remove the pre-amp & associated gubbins, and replace with traditional pots/caps, though what size cap(s) you would use is for someone else to answer. I think most people would answer: Why? Why get an active StingRay and why would you want to remove the eletronics? I guess one option would be to get an active T'bird (that Epiphone one) as well as the StingRay, or like you say, another passive T'bird. What about a P or P/J bass or a G&L L2000 (switchable from active to passive)? After many, many, many years of playing active's, I went back to passives, mainly because of all the active's I'd had (from Aria/Westone/Washburn/Tobias/EBMM and a few others), I'd never really been that happy with the way they sounded, no matter how much I tweaked them and the amps, either live or recorded. I plugged in a friends passive, instant tonal gratification, great sound straight off and every time. From then on, I've been a passive re-convert, but buying a new bass is frustrating, because it seems that nearly everything has active electronics in them, apart from the good old P or J (and even they don't escape the all pervading 9v treatment!). Stay passive!

No matter how much you try to sell your music, and no matter how much time, effort & financial input you and the rest of your band put into making the best recording you can... There's always some freeloading numpty's who expect you to give them a copy for free... more these days thanks to "free" downloads on Blogs and other sources. And I've had numerous "discussions" with folk on various forums (fora/forii?) be they musician or just music related, there are still more people arguing that you should give your music away for free. IMO o'course.

[quote name='Dingus' timestamp='1386783093' post='2304500'] Geezer is indeed the guv'nor. What a fantastic player. His sound is always great, and his playing over the years has been an inspiration . Heaven And Hell and Mob Rules are my favourite albums for Geezers playing , but he is great on everything Sabbath have ever done . In fact, it was Geezer Butler and Geddy Lee that really inspired me to take up the bass, and I like to think that if by some amazing breakthrough in medical science Geezer and Geddy were able to have a child together then I would be that child. [/quote] Remember watching the "Never Say Die" tour video on telly many moons ago (when we only had 4 channels), and he was knocking seven shades out of a Fireglo 4001, though my absolute favourite was the "Live in Paris" film from about 1970 (Paranoid tour?). Utter classic. Also remember reading a Guitar mag interview with Tony Iommi a few years back, and he said that Sabbath never had the need of a rhythm guitarist, "because Geezer filled those spaces with the bass". Awesome player and all round top bloke.

That's another one that's swaying me away from the Line6 Pack. They've focused on developing the Guitar specific stuff, and kind of left the Bass side to fend for itself. They integrated bass models on the PODx3's, but seem to have left them out of the HD line.

Been using my good old Line6 PODxt for both guitar and bass duties for a long time, but I'm considering (again) whether or not to get a dedicated bass multi FX pedal. The PODxt sounds pretty good to me, using guitar amp models & cabs for bass for practising at home, recording and (very) occaisional jams. In the past I've had both a Behringer V-Amp Bass modeller and a Line6 Bass PODxt. Neither, IMO, sounded that impressive in comparison to the Guitar PODxt, the Behringer seriously failed to impress, where the Bass PODxt was good, it wasn't that good (or maybe I've just got used to hearing the bass through the red PODxt!). Been specifically looking at the Vox StompLab 2B, which is getting good reviews, but doesn't have the deep editing faciility of the POD or other USB connected pedals/modellers. Has anyone got or used one? How does it sound? Can you get a good sound out of it without too much messing about? How is it to edit patches? Is the interface intuitive? Another option would be to get the Line6 Bass Expansion pack and load it on to the xt, but at $100 (not sure of the exchange rate just now!), is it worth it? The plus side is that I know the interface, can use the PC based Editor software to tinker with patches/sounds/mic placement etc and don't have to worry about where I'm gong to keep another piece of kit! In one way, I'm pretty happy to keep using the guitar amp models, but a part of me wonders what the bass would sound like with a virtual SVT or Super Lead Bass...

Got the DVD, a very entertaining film, though I found it incredibly humourous that, of all the people interviewed for the film, the only one to get sub-titled is D*A*M's Dave Main... from South Yorkshire!

Anything by My Bloody Valentine

Thanks for setting me straight on that, I am forever in your debt and bow to your superior knowledge and wisdom.

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1386191602' post='2297098'] What sort of amp are we talking about here? I still think it sounds like you're talking about a cathode-biased amp, which can be considered "self adjusting" to some extent. I wouldn't like to suggest to the OP that he could swap any octal valve into his Alphabass with impunity (without adjusting anything), as that may not be the case. [/quote] [quote name='Skybone' timestamp='1386171911' post='2296719'][b]However, you should get the amp serviced by an Amp Tech & get him to change the valves for you at the same time.[/b][/quote]

But as I understand it, and one of the reasons that I bought this particular amp in the first place (as well as it being incredibly versatile, sounding superb, and being built in the UK), was the fact that because it is a fixed bias design, it enables the end user to change the power valves themselves, without having to take the amp to a tech. This particular amp works in both Class A and Class AB(1), and can be switched between classes and valve configurations to acheive a range of tones and outputs, from family friendly single ended operation to pummeling your eardrums at gigs. But, one of the great features of this amp, is that you can use pretty much any octal valve (still have to be in matched pairs), and it'll still sound superb. And I have tried it a few times, with no detriment to the amp or the volume, through this experimentation though, I found that it sounded best with the stock EL34's. I used to have an Ampeg VL503 (guitar combo) where you could flick a bias switch on the back and then change the power valves from EL34's & 6L6's, then simply adjust the micro pots at the back to get the valves into bias using rear panel mounted LED's. Likewise, the Peavey head should sound best with 6L6's, but with a fixed bias, you should be able to swap them yourself. However, you should get the amp serviced by an Amp Tech & get him to change the valves for you at the same time.

Fixed bias means that the bias is fixed, and therefore won't need to be adjusted when you change the valves. In other words, you can change the valves yourself without having to take it to a Valve Amp Technician. Matched pairs: Most high output valve amps work in Class AB or "push/pull" (IIRC!). Where some Class A valve amps can work with a single valve, Class AB amps need pairs. However, with a fixed bias amp, you can put 3 different sets of matched pairs (1 pair at 1 bias voltage, the other two pairs at different voltages), and theoretically, because the bias is fixed, the amp will still work without having to have a trip to the Amp Tech's. Beacuse of this, you should also be able to use pretty much any octal base (8 pin) power valves (6L6, EL34, KT66, KT77, 6550, etc). Also, one of the other benefits of fixed bias is that your power valves will last so much longer than in a non-fixed bias amp. It's always baffled me why more manufacturer's don't produce valve amps with fixed bias, though the Amp Tech's are glad that they do. And yes, I own a fixed bias valve amp that I can use any octal base power valve without having to get it re-biased each and every time I change valves (saying that, I'm still running the original set of valves it came with when I bought it 7 years ago, and it still sounds fantastic).

[quote name='gjones' timestamp='1386085010' post='2295509'] Notice the headstock on the first strat. It's a hondo or something? Once he smashes it, he then is given the proper one to finish the song with. [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2miLo3hbEZE[/media] [/quote] R.I.P. R.J.D.

My old 4003 was always in D standard (D, G, C, F) and played brilliantly with only a couple of minor tweaks to the bridge (intonation & string height). Used stainless 105 guage Stadium Elites. For C or lower, maybe look at using slightly heavier strings (110's?). My Rockinbetter's tuned to D, without tweaks, and it sounds just fine.

AFAIK, a guitar head should be fine, just remember to use a bass cab/speaker (unless you want to blow the guitar speakers that is).

80's covers tips? Invest in a fretless and work on your Pino Palladino impressions. And don't forget the BIG HAIR.

[quote name='jezzaboy' timestamp='1384978350' post='2283115'] The snack shop up the road from me got a cease order from the makers of the Ally McBeal show as they called their shop McBeals. The shop, all 10 sq feet of it, was a serious threat to the tv program. [/quote] No, it was because they were selling food, where the star and the rest of the female cast of the Ally McBeal show were ordered to cease & desist from eating.

[quote name='spacey' timestamp='1385493049' post='2288969'] Never thought of any bass as an "investment" I can think of far better things to invest in. My basses are instruments that I saved up and bought because I liked them, gig money and months in without beer and nights out to buy each one. Nothing snobbish or protective, but something in life cost and if you want them you are far better going without for a while than wasting money on overpriced copies, especially ones that cost £500 and come out of the box like a carriage clock thrown from the Eiffel tower. [/quote] Congratulations in your dedication to acheiving your dream... However, some people can't stretch to saving anything towards purchasing a real Ric, be it new of second hand because of their economic position. There's a news report out that nearly nine million people living in the UK have serious debt problems, there are plenty of others working for minimum (or even minimal) wages and simply can't afford to save anything as they have, like the rest of us, bills to pay, food to buy & other living costs to consider before anyone can even consider buying such a "luxury item". Let's face it, most of us are damned lucky to be in the position where we have the diposable income to purchase musical instruments in the first place, and some are luckier still to be able to afford their "dream" instruments. Sometimes, a "best alternative" fits the bill better than "the real thing". As for [i]"overpriced copies, especially ones that cost £500 and come out of the box like a carriage clock thrown from the Eiffel tower."[/i], then that is your opinion, but you should remove your blinkers and open your mind to the fact that these are actually decent instruments in their own right. You mentioned cars in an earlier post, yes, you could drive an Audi A3, but at the end of the day, the fact that it's an Audi still doesn't hide the fact that it shares a large number of components with the VW Golf, the Seat Leon AND the Skoda Octavia.

Apologies, but it was definitely not aimed at you, I was merely stating that the issue with copies (and bitsa's) is mostly a case of certain people "having their cake and eating it" or "cork sniffing" ("I have a "real" one, you don't, therefore you're a pleb"). It's like someone with a "real" furniture grade PRS guitar looking down their nose at someone who has a PRS SE version. Remember the late 70's/early 80's accusations of "Jap Crap"? Remember the late 80's/early 90's accusations of "Korean Crap"?

[quote name='badboy1984' timestamp='1385476387' post='2288673'] Whats wrong with copy bass? I have a parts build p/j bass that play better then most real fender in the market. I'm a happy pround owner. [/quote] Having your cork and sniffing it?

[quote name='Thunderbird' timestamp='1385473795' post='2288625'] Which is what I said it is up to the individual and for the record I have played a Rockinbetter and I was no where near blown away if you like it thats great I am in no way knocking the instrument you have so I am a bit confused as to why you are coming across as defensive and a bit sarcastic? if I have misread your reply I apologise [/quote] It was in response to spacey's post prior to yours, however, it could be pertinent to your "not worth £400-500" comment. The issue is that there is no option for a "decent brand" used instrument of that particular type of guitar, if your after that particular type of instrument. You can get branded copies of Gibsons, Fenders, G&L's, Warwick's, MusicMan, and many of the other bass guitar manufacturer's. But because of a decision made by Rickenbacker, those of us, who want to play a Ric, but don't have the Ric budget, have to "make do" with either a different brand/style of instrument (which can be a waste of money when you don't get on with something), or buy the "best alternative" (to use the correct economic term) to the product that you would like. The days of used Ric's selling for £350 are long, long, long gone. And yes, I severely regret missing out on that early 70's, checker bound 4001 that I could have bought for £350 from a dealership. And it also seems that the days of sub-£1000 used 4003's is long gone as well. I haven't seen one go for less than £1200 in the last couple of years (including my old 2005). Which I believe also goes someway in backing up the argument for Rickenbacker to produce a budget line of instruments, following the Epiphone/Squier model of building "copies" of their own guitars overseas where the labour costs are lower, and still produce and sell the higher end guitars. If they manage it correctly, it's a "win win" for both the company and the consumer.

If you'd tried one, you wouldn't be saying any of that. I owned a 4003 for 6-7 years. I now own a Rickenfaker which, IMO, is certainly a far, far better instrument than you claim it is. It certainly doesn't feel like a £150 instrument or a £300 instrument for that matter, it feels far better than that. Yes, there are a few "chancers" out there that ask a far higher price for the instruments that they're trying to sell, but that always has happened, and always will happen when you have a quality instrument, regardless of the fact that may be emulating another. I had a Gibson Les Paul for a while, but sold it because the Tokai Love Rock I bought as a "spare" was simply a better instrument by far, even though a) it wasn't a Gibson Les Paul and b} it was half as expensive as a Gibson Les Paul. You simply have to look at the reviews that brands like Vintage and Fret King are getting to see that lower price doesn't mean lower quality. Tesco Finest or Tesco Everyday Value?

The reason they're so expensive, is so that owners of real Ric's get to gloat over those of us poor souls that can't afford them. I had a real Ric, I [b]had[/b] to sell it, the Rockinbetter's the next best thing in the absence of an official Rickenbacker budget line along the Epiphone/Squier model. Get off your high horse and smell some reality.