hubrad

Keep trying to see what is there. If USA any Allen keys will be imperial; I think Mex can be either but I was once told metric to be the usual. I got a set of small size Allen keys yonks back. So close together in sizes it's almost immaterial, I just use whichever fits.

And now, teams, let's play Mornington Crescent!

He 'doesn't want to part with her'.. I think his wish may well be granted!

[quote name='M@23' timestamp='1384716550' post='2279917'] Sorry to hijack here, but I'm going to put some flats on the Christmas list. Not had them before, do I need to order any specific length for through body stringing? I'll prob give Fender ago to see how I like them. Thanks! Edit: another noob question; Do they not do 45-110s? I need to do some more homework here... [/quote] IIRC there was a thread on through body stringing and suitable or otherwise brands. I have no through stringing basses(possible niche to justify GAS?) but some are 35" scale which need similarly longer strings. The Picato sets I've used have been fine for 35", but maybe others can comment on through body?

Lost me at cookies! ;-)

Re nut slots. . I think most basses are built to take at least 45-105 & 125 or 130, so prob no slot widening needed. Back tomorrow!

Free post n packing, mind!:-D

That kind of thing. Picato are 50-105 with an optional 130 low B. Many basses don't even need nut slot tweaks at that. Drop me a pm and I'm pretty sure we have this set in the shop so I'll ring you tomorrow if you'd like some in the post.

The closest I've had to EUB tone has been black nylon flats (Picato 777) on a fretless Overwater. The nylons are yet mellower than steel flats, but sweeter as well for my tastes.

My Facebook page always throws up (sic) adverts for that kinda thing.. I think it's because I've not supplied Facebook with much more than the basic minimum information so either a)they're taking a wild guess at what a 50 year old bloke wants from the internet or b)Facebook is trying to bug me into divulging every facet of my life.

I believe the 1/4" phone jack was what was available in a cheap and plentiful supply when electric guitars were really being started big-time. Does the job but not actually ideal. The XLR setup allows balanced (as does running a stereo 1/4" connector) cabling which is far more efficient, although IMHO you have to get over about 30 feet cable length before you can really hear it in most applications - I once made a cable of about 35' from decent quality cable and Neutrik jacks and you could hear the lack of tone. The XLR connector is also more efficient as the contact area is greater, and it's a heavier duty connector.. this can be a double edged sword, however, as I have broken/damaged a few 1/4" connections in gigging scenarios while XLR might have meant more damage to the gear. I have a Progress III by Overwater which, as BigRedX says, has 1/4" and XLR with the electronics being switched on the jack; has anyone ever come across a panel-mount XLR socket which handles 3 contacts and still switches? There have been so many of these permutations in 1/4" so I've probably just missed it!

Works for me. . Trace AH250SMX bought new about 20 years ago, 2xEA CXL112. Actually most of the time only one cab cos 2 gets complaints re too loud!

[quote name='lojo' timestamp='1383812443' post='2269304'] he say thats total ******** [/quote] This, to the letter.

Is that an upside down mm type control plate?

Put simply, YES! Most teachers I know are geared up for both approaches these days, as the 'average' life pattern is far less common these days than it was 20 or 30 years ago. Even one lesson with a good teacher will make you think..

+1 about EVERYBODY stopping.. could be worth mentioning that at a rehearsal - 'hey chaps, I'm feeling my way into this thing but how about just a skeleton framework for me to work with?' Playing completely solo is mightily exposed! To my mind, you hit the nail on the head with 'vocabulary'; whether playing a bassline or taking a break you draw on your stock of riffs, lines and phrases. The more you learn, the bigger the store. Two of the most useful things I ever heard/saw on the subject.. Victor Wooten, in some masterclass video clip I saw on YT then have never been able to find again(!) really stresses this thing where everyone else in the band stops and you're left on your own.. what do you do? Flurry of notes to relieve the pressure of being in total control all the rest of the song.. WRONG! Keep the groove and build on it, otherwise it makes absolutely no sense. A one-note groove-like-a-badger bass break will move people far more than some rhythmically random spray of notes. David Grier, teaching a guitar picking masterclass.. get so you can think of a melody (indeed, hum a tune) and play it. Sounds daft, but he made his point with Happy Birthday - none of the guitarists in his class could just play it off the top of their heads. 'If you can't just bring up such a well-ingrained tune, how are you expecting to bring up an improvised line that makes any sense.?' Start with simple lines and let yourself get more complex as you go on. It'll get easier as you do more of it.

You'll probably find there's a decent supplier close to you.. I know of two local to me, but I live in Yorkshire! I just Googled 'nut and bolt suppliers hampshire' and brought up loads.

I didn't even change the neck.. when I measured up I figured I'd just about get away with it, so fitted all 5 into the space provided. I just remembered there are piccies in this thread: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/44673-ibanez-roadster-megacustom/page__hl__ibanez%20roadster

The simple answer is that it is too much work. However, you list' randomly making stuff' as an interest, so speaking as one whose one bass for years was a ridiculously customised (4 string with head eventually became 5 string headless) Ibanez I'd say go for it. .you could learn alot a lot about how basses work.

I've been using what is now called the Copperhead for ages now, and while I don't feel the neeeeed to change, I'm quite tempted to try the Naturalist. Maybe one under each foot? It just never goes away, does it?

1cm difference in pickup placing will make a difference. My 'project' bass has some no-name J body with (now) a single large rectangular rout so I can move the pickups at will. I'm a firm believer in the wood making a difference, but that was another thread! However I don't feel there's any real effect of the pickup being hard up against an edge, just so long as it's firmly attached rather than at all loose. Sounds like you need a go with a router; if you're not into power tools, get someone who knows what they're doing! Once the pickup is where you want it you can always find or make a new plate.

Yup. Strings, winder.. don't even look in my wires bag! Used spare strings once (Evah.. ouch!) when one was damaged by too-close contact with part of the vehicle we were travelling in. I have a soundpost setting tool, which usually lives under the front seat of my own car. I think I can explain it, should I ever get searched late at night. I was a Scout for a looong time!

I normally ignore competitions requiring a FB like, but since I already subscribe to Scott's website missives - thoroughly recommended - I have no problem in this case. Now just give me the bass! :-D