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  1. I used to sell these.. these set neck ones punch well above their weight, and id say 100 for this has to be a stonking bargain for the quality Glwts, Milty!
  2. I have the DC in at least one bass; can't remember just which model is in the neck position, but the overall effect is gorgeous, for my taste at least. I may even have changed the neck pickup once or twice, might be a P5.. that's one of the interesting things with the shape: if you fancy experimenting later you have many options available with no routing. For the few quid difference I'd definitely go for the active EMG over the HZ.
  3. Hmm.. that suggests +9V, 0V, -9V Hopefully someone more into preamp technicalities will be along soon!
  4. If you're getting the octave harmonic it could be you're moving the bow too quickly or lightly, also perhaps try a softer rosin.. my first good rosin was Pops, one of the stickiest going.
  5. Give it a try.. they're different rather than one being per se better. I prefer German myself, but the teacher I used to go to didn't like German at all. Hey, if it's good enough for Gary Karr.. I noticed you can get more easy finesse from the French, as you have all the flexibility of your fingers at work, but more easy power from the German.
  6. Back on topic, series doubles the voltage, which is what you'd want for increased headroom. This is the purpose of running EMG setups at 18V, which they are buit to handle. Parallel keeps you at 9V, doubling the capacity, i.e. battery life. Your preamp will still just take the current it needs, so no effect on your sound. If the MEC gear you have will definitely handle 18V then go for it, otherwise I'd leave it safe and working.
  7. You mean this one? https://images.app.goo.gl/c18AM6dvbF5LZ1358
  8. Enjoy the fretless ride, Chewie! If you're chasing a more DB tonality, then flatwound strings, or even better black nylon tapewounds, get you that bit closer. If you're *really* after that DB tonality, then get a double bass! My only regret with such things is that I waited probably 15 years longer than I might have done, thus denying myself an extra 15 years of fun. Mind you, that was 15 years of getting better on fretless, so nothing actually lost..
  9. Vastly underpublicised brand, IMHO.. when I worked in a shop we sold various items of the range, all excellent. I still have a few different ones, including their wall hanger which I still consider to be the best I've ever used. I noted at the time that K&M never seemed to get into any of those 'Best stand of 20xx' magazine articles.. maybe they didn't buy enough advertising, or maybe I never quite read the right magazines. GLWTS!
  10. I have to confess I'm a big fan of the good folks at Overwater! 🙂 The thing with going to an actual custom builder is that you can choose to have, or not to have, things like exotic woods and sophisticated EQ systems. They'll put just as much skill and attention into building a passive alder slab PJ as a bells-and-whistles bass. You're the client. Of the companies who import, I've heard several good reports of the Bass Centre models which I'm pretty sure are Korean made. Someone on here just got a Guy Pratt Betsy in the last day or two.
  11. Quite unsettling if you're thinking of either of the originals at the time! Brilliant editing, mind.
  12. I think it's personal taste.. a fresh set of flats actually has its own brightness, which fades as you'd expect. If the sound you're after doesn't include that brightness then wait and they'll be good for ages. If you like bright, spoingy roundwounds you'll be changing far more often than if you prefer them partway down or even fully dulled off. Any of the above may or may not suit a particular bass on a particular day, depending also on your mood at the time. Fun, isn't it?
  13. What a cracking sig bass! I may be getting the power tools out and the thinking cap on..
  14. Nothing looks immediately obvious, but one thing springs to mind.. if a bass has been sat idle for an age, the jack socket and pots can oxidise inside, and as we all know it doesn't take much to interfere with the sound. Try lacing the jack socket with switch cleaner/lubricant such as Servisol Super 10 (other brands are available, and it's great for scratchy pots) and repeatedly insert and remove the jack plug. Something as simple as a bit of a dirty contact might be enough to stop the switching part of the jack socket working, hence no active circuit or LED.
  15. All practice is good. As above, the only difference is muscle memory, and speaking as a player of 3 lengths of unlined fretless plus the DB I reckon you'll get the 3/4 muscle memory back once you have regular access to it again. Onwards and upwards!
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