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hubrad

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  1. We sold one 4/4 1950 all laminate - the blonde rockabilly model. Tbh, my own double bass, which I bought from a mate as a 'larger-than-average' 3/4, was larger than the Stentor 4/4! Mwahahaaa!
  2. +1 for the Stentor 1950. I sold a few when I worked in a shop. They crop up second hand from time to time. Excellent starter bass but good enough to keep you going a fair while. Eminently giggable, as said above.
  3. Cruiser/Cruzer by Crafter were well in your budget when they were available new, and second hand they're great value.. I have a couple myself! Pickups are ok, but the basses themselves justify upgrading those.. I put Japanese J in one and Fender and Ibanez in another.
  4. Good spot, PTP.. one to file away for those little emergencies!
  5. Sounds fine.. onwards and upwards!
  6. Mwahahaaah.. welcome to our world! 😄
  7. Not heard of Nova. I had a headless 5 string bridge by ABM a while back, excellent German engineering! Iirc ABM was a step up from Schaller at the time.
  8. Did you ever get any further with this? Depending on the dimensions of those soapbars, you may well be able to use one of the readily available replacements with an internal P configuration. I know you said you want to go passive, but certainly EMG do such a pickup cos I've got one in one of mine. Other brands are available.. https://www.emgpickups.com/40p.html
  9. Saw them a couple of years back; excellent stuff!
  10. That's more than a year's Spotify payout for most folks these days!
  11. I've had my bass Realist for almost 20 years, hitch-free, but had to repair the one on my mandolin after a few months of incautious handling.. soldered some bare braid to bridge the torn copper foil. It lives to this day. Glad you got yours sorted, Gareth.
  12. Cruiser by Crafter.. The occasional bass you see just labelled Crafter is from Korea, where these Cruiser (later Cruzer) ones are from Crafter's Chinese production line. I used to sell them when I worked in a music shop, and I actually ended up with a couple of the conventional J type bought second hand for projects.. pickup upgrades and two of them defretted - still got them and gigged the fretless! Excellent value for money when they were new at under £200, so this seems like a decent price if someone has a spare set of J pickups and pots lying around for the project.. might even have some left over in my Projects Box. GLWTS, bagsieblue!
  13. That's the business section, i.e. for resellers. From the same site, in the pages for private citizens: https://europa.eu/youreurope/citizens/consumers/shopping/vat/index_en.htm "Pay VAT in the country where you shop As a private individual shopping in the EU, you should only pay VAT once, in the country where you make your purchase." Although, just to confuse matters: "Special rules may apply when you buy goods from another EU country for delivery to your country of residence. If the company you buy from sells goods over a certain value to your country, where the goods are delivered, they cannot charge VAT in the country where you make your purchase. Instead, they have to apply VAT in the country where the goods are delivered – VAT of destination. The maximum amount for these cross-border sales is set by each EU country at either €35,000 or €100,000. This means that most major online retailers delivering within the EU will have to apply the VAT of destination rule." So it seems to depend how you buy something and whether you're there in person or buying online. Edit: looking at Thomann, as one who definitely sends more than E100,000 from Germany to UK (other retailers are available) : "Deliveries to EU countries will be charged at their local VAT rate (where applicable). Due to the turnover of our company, EU law requires Musikhaus Thomann to charge the local VAT rate of all EU countries."
  14. Early 80s.. the Polar Bear was sometimes welcoming to a group of us playing Irish music. Good Times!
  15. Further to neilp's post, Knut Guettler, in his (sadly out of print) book A Guide To Modern Double Bass Technique, put this graphic up regarding movements of the whole arm system on reversal from down to up bow. Same thing applies for up to down bow. As he says, "The foundation of all bowing technique is the change of bow." Reverse the big bits first, i.e. torso, shoulder, then on down to the fingers. Think of your arm system as similar to the con rods and piston on a steam locomotive, one whole smooth system made up of its component parts.
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