Count Bassy

[quote name='skej21' timestamp='1388692917' post='2324994'] Owning two sig basses, I actually feel mixed about them. In principle, I find the idea of owning a replica of someone else's bass odd (unless you're in a tribute band or a HUGE fan!) so I went for the whole 'go in and try as many as possible and buy the one that is best!' idea. Both times that turned out to be the signature model. There isn't a jazz bass I've played with a neck quite like the Geddy. For me, I loved it and wouldn't have had that profile on a standard production model. Similarly, I went for the Nate Mendel precision because the neck profile is so different to the other standard precision neck profiles and the addition of the bad ass bridge, quarter pounder and nitro finish swung it. I suppose the feel and sound rather than the signature on the headstock made the decision for me. [/quote] My sentiments exactly, except in my case I have the Fender Stu Hamm Urge Mk 1 because it has the 32" scale (and other things), and I have the Ibanez Garry Willis GWB 35 because it is a five string lined fretless at a sensible price and Ibanez build quailty. In fact I'd never heard of Stu Hamm or Gary Willis until I bought the basses. I also find the idea of wearing a band's merchandise to that band's concerts a bit "odd", and never do it myself, however much I rate the band or artist.

Well the clip sounds OK, but hardly the "Ground breaking" that they claim.

Sad to say that part of my plan is to spend much less time on Basschat! [size=4] (This post is a good start [/size][size=4] i[/size][size=4]sn't it [/size] ?[size=4])[/size] [size=4]But a lot more time playing [/size] [size=4]And the band I'm [/size]practising[size=4] with should have our first gig in February [/size] [size=4]And buy myself a light(ish) weight amp (Possibly an LMIII) (while retaining the DBS 7400).[/size] [size=4]And move on some of the basses I don't play anymore .[/size] [size=4]And on a wider scale: change my job.[/size] [size=4]A happy New Year to all.[/size]

[quote name='Beedster' timestamp='1387912355' post='2317199'] A generous interpretation CB, I would have said - stress or no stress - "thanks for bringing your bass here to have the work done" and I might have been thinking as I said it "despite our extremely high prices for relatively simple jobs and despite the fact it takes our technician over a month to rewire a bass and despite the fact that even when he has the controls don't work properly and I have to ask him to sit down with the customer and let him explain how to do the job". [/quote] Well I've said and done few "off" things in my time (largely due to depression and stress - but not always), so try to give benefit of the doubt, or allow for what might be going on someone's life (or head) at the time, where possible. However he might just be a twat! PS: I still love the fact that Twat gets through the filter! Doesn't even recognise it as a word, let alone a rude one. Twat Twat Twat (just because I can)!

IN: Ibanez SR605 Vanderkley 112MNT OUT: Nothing (Maybe next year)

[size=4]I remember hearing Elton John say that he could never to the big chords due to his hand size, and had to adapt what he played accordingly. He seems to have done all right at it, and a[/size][size=4]s others have pointed out, there are some excellent small handed players out there, so it's not insurmountable, but you may have to adapt your style and technique to suit your hand size.[/size] [size=4]As someone put it me regarding something completely different: "You have to play the hand you have, not the one you wish you had". A card playing reference, but it seems particularly apt in this case!![/size] [size=4]At least as bassists we have the option of different scale lengths!![/size]

[quote name='Beedster' timestamp='1387565146' post='2313508'] The owner of a music shop ranted at me a few years back for having the audacity to buy an old bass on eBay and then bring it into his shop intending to pay for a decent checkover, setup and rewire (he didn't appear to understand that I wasn't interested in buying any of the £100-£150 instruments in the shop). He performed his rant on a Saturday morning about a week before Christmas and in full view of about 6 potential customers and their mums and dads, all of whom left sharpish. He went out of business a few weeks later. [/quote] Not excusing his behaviour, but if he knew that his business was on the way out (which he must have done if it went a few weeks later), then his stress levels must have been Sky high when he ranted at you, and if that was the case then I feel for him. Then again he may have been a regular ranter, hence the business collapsing in the first place.

[quote name='tauzero' timestamp='1387752307' post='2315344'] I don't understand why the red one has tuners at both ends. [/quote] Does it have detuners at both ends like that mannring bloke has?

Assuming that my lack of talent is not a problem, then Family. Simply because they were/are my favourite band ever.

[quote name='Immo' timestamp='1386869800' post='2305758'] I tried the RockCable by Warwick RCL 30205 D6 C coil cable. Previously I used Proel Bulk cable. It may be psychoacoustics, but I think that coiled made my bass sound even better - a bit more clarity and a slight volume boost. It's elastic, so I can move around. And looks utterly cool. As for now, I really like this cord. [/quote] It's not psychoacoustics. Its because the curly cable means that the electrons are going round the same way as the earth's rotation, which makes them flow more easily. Unfortunately this means that if you have a gig in the southern hemisphere you have to use a cable that is coiled the other way round. Straight cables are fine if you're near the equator.

[quote name='Grand Wazoo' timestamp='1387447195' post='2311955'] Yes and thank you for the suggestion, I know that would be an option but not one I want to do, because my idea is to keep upgrade reversable in case I sell the bass and the buyer prefers to have all orginal parts. Cheers [/quote] Yes, but if you modified the new bridge rather than the original bass, then it would be reversible by simply refiting the old bridge. The holes in the bass would not be affected.

[quote name='Grand Wazoo' timestamp='1387229993' post='2309734'] Nigel the problem is not the spacing but the foot pring of the bridge is not standard size I have a few aftermarket (Fender replacement ones) and none fit without me having to tap the screw holes and redrill new ones which I don't wish to do because I intend to keep everything else as original and reversable to standard status. Thanks [/quote] In that case could you take a new "Off the Shelf" bridge and drill additional holes it it to match the existing screw holes in the bass? A custom made one will be very expensive compared to off the shelf.

[quote name='uncle psychosis' timestamp='1387274416' post='2310017'] Personally if I was going to do it I'd probably go the other way---rounds on the E/A and flats on the D/G. I think this would give a much better balance of timbre across the instrument. But why not give it a go? It could sound ace. [/quote] Yeah, me too, make the B/E a bit more lively with rounds and the A/D/G a bit less harsh with the flats. Of course there are half rounds to consider, all the different gauges, different materials (as mentioned), and all the different manufacturers. The possibilities would be almost endless if you had the time (and money) to experiment with them all.

[quote name='booboo' timestamp='1387161894' post='2308920'] Is it best to tune intonation at the bridge to the harmonic or the fretted note at the 12th fret? For those of us more likely to be playing mustang sally than portrait of Tracy surely it's the fretted note? [/quote] The point is that you cannot tune the harmonic. The harmonic (at the 12th fret - at the mid point of the string) is always an exact octave above the open string!. If correctly intonated then fretting at the 12th fret is also an exact octave. If the intonation is wrong then the fretted note is out of tune with the harmonic, but it is always the harmonic which is the reference, to which the fretted note should be tuned using the bridge adjustment. If the bridge is way out, say a 10mm, then the harmonic then you'd have to touch the string 5mm beyond the 12th fret to get the true harmonic, but it would still be an exact octave above the open string. If you tried touching the sting directly above the 12th fret in those circumstances then you wouldn't get much of a harmonic.. .

Can't believe that no-ones suggested "Pick up the pieces".

[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1386749105' post='2303881'] Sharp is short & flat is long if the harmonic is sharp the string is too short - you need to move the saddle further away from the nut. HTH John [/quote][quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1386749105' post='2303881'] Sharp is short & flat is long if the harmonic is sharp the string is too short - you need to move the saddle further away from the nut. HTH John [/quote] I'm pretty sure it's the other way round I.e. if the [i]fretted [/i]note is sharp then you move the saddle away from the nut. The whole point is (I thought) that the harmonic at the 12th has to be an exact octave above the open string, irrespective of string length.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1386971861' post='2307154'] Most tweeters don't do anything below 4kHz, and most players don't have a lot of content in their tone above 6kHz, so getting along without them you don't lose much. What most players can benefit from is better response between 2kHz and 5kHz, where midrange drivers operate. But midrange drivers and their crossovers are more expensive than tweeters, so they're rarely seen. [/quote] Must be why my old Musicman HD212 ( 2 x 12" + 1 x 6") sound so good!

[quote name='Salt on your Bass?' timestamp='1379361635' post='2211853'] Looks great, but 1599 for a class d?? [/quote] £1599 for any amp?!!!

[quote name='Delberthot' timestamp='1386621970' post='2302382'] I used this setup for years and am about to again for larger gigs with PA support although with different amp and cab than the picture to keep the stage volume down [url="http://s927.photobucket.com/user/Delberthot/media/DSC02041Medium.jpg.html"][/url] [/quote] MY only comment on that set up as shown is that, whatever it sound like, it must look pretty awful from the audience's view point if that is directly in front of you.

[quote name='jimbobothy' timestamp='1386522033' post='2300989'] Hey guys, I've been informed that the two speakon inputs that are on each of my cabs are wired in parallel. In usage what does this mean please? E.g. If I daisy chain from one cab to the other what will the overall ohms rating be, 16 ohms? I run a Genz Benz Shuttle 6.0 head at the moment. Cheers, any info would be great [/quote] Two 8 Ohm cabs in parallel will give you 4 Ohms.

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1386420735' post='2299913'] This Marshall DBS7200 (with cab) is a steal at £200 [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/223914-marshall-dbs-7200-amp-and-7015-cab/page__hl__dbs__fromsearch__1"]http://basschat.co.u...__fromsearch__1[/url] I had the 7400 and it was a great amp, just too heavy for me. [/quote] I have the DBS7400 and I love it. "Only" 400 Watts (into 2 Ohm), but has a peak of 4000 Watts rather than a more typical 800 for 400W continuous, so sounds far louder than the 400 watts would suggest. My 'small' rig is this into an 8 ohm Vanderkley MNT112, and it's deafening. This beast can drive 4 of these !! and I can't imagine how loud that would be. But ........ It does weigh a ton (and the fan can be noisy for practice purposes). Also, to me the difference between the solid state preamp and the valve pre-amp is not as dramatic as I'd like it, but that might just be a valve change required.

I'm looking for a snow machine for will probably be a one off use at a gig between Christmas and New Year (as possibly once a year thereafter). It will be used in a smallish covered outside area, total audience capacity probably around 60. I'm really only looking to squirt some snow over the band (area of around 5 x 2.5 metres), not over the whole audience. It wouldn't have to be a blizzard, just enough to be seen and raise a smile. However I know absolutely nothing about them!. [size=4]Looking on E-bay they seem to start at around £50 (new), but is something around this price going to worth having at all? What wattage should I be looking for etc?[/size] [size=4]It is going to be a bit off a one off "gimmick" for a laugh, so I wouldn't want to spend too much. £40 would be OK, £70 possible, - beyond that gets hard to justify.[/size] [size=4](If I make the "investment" it will probably snow for real!)[/size] [size=4](I've just seen that, even in a cheap machine, 1 Litre of "snow fluid" only gives about 7 minutes of snow)[/size] [size=4]Thanks in advance.[/size]

[quote name='steve-bbb' timestamp='1386426163' post='2299975'] isopropyl alcohol or lighter fluid also a rag soaked in IPA and rub down strings will really clean them up and give them a fresh lease of life [/quote] And the orange oil based solvents (e.g. label remover) are great for gaffa tape residue as well (and Blue Tac residue). However, as they always say, "test on an inconspicuous area first".

[quote name='Mottlefeeder' timestamp='1386320432' post='2298617'] Thanks for your input - I agree with the theory, but the rig will not be delivering continuous power. There is an article on the EBS site about power requirements for bass amplifiers which states that the ratio between the peak signal of a plucked string and the average of the note is about 12:1, so you need the 100W for the first few vibrations of the string, and much less for the rest. [/quote] This is why the old Marshall DBS7400 is so good - a nominal 400W amplifier with a peak of 4000W. A 10:1 ratio rather than the more typical 2:1. (but it weighs a ton).

So, can I sell a cab without a speaker lead? - after all it's pretty useless without one. - and how long should said speaker (or indeed mains) lead be?