itu

Remember, that a unit's warranty can be far longer than a year or two, if the unit has been faulty since the production line. In this case it seems so. And that should be fixed free of charge, no customs or VAT, please.

If you want to make the system slightly more complicated to carry around, put the power and mixing outside the bass. Like Alembic has that power box. You can put 9 VDC riding to the same stereo audio cable and take it out with simple capacitors at both ends. This is common with video signals, too.

Some ideas seen: Philip Kubicki - Ex-Factor: It has a rotary switch for OFF/STD-BY/ON/ON. Potentiometer(s) with a switch for Active/Passive. Some special jacks have switches in-built, but the choice for M/S (and battery) is not obvious or simple. A tiny switch built to jack plate. A hidden or low-profile switch to the back plate.

...which tells only the DC resistance of the coil, not the impedance.

Minim + three dots = half + quarter + eighth + sixteenth. You could not add a quaver (eighth) after that to a bar of 4/4, dear @FDC484950. Just one extra sixteenth (semiquaver) fills the bar.

https://music-electronics-forum.com/forum/instrumentation/pickup-makers/34606-wire-gauge-is-40-and-41-too-thick-for-anything#post475137

@stewblack: Thank you, and maybe, but the deviation was bad. I think @Doctor J did better, because the deviation was smaller. His package is better in control.

Ouch! This was bad, I expected something easier. For a bassist (I thought so), the beat alignment got really bad, 98. Melodic discrimination was made by piano, no thanks, 117. Only the mistuning perception felt good, scored 149. Overall 121. It is time to start to listen to radio and play. Radio helps my timing and is much easier to listen than any metronome.

Super Symmetry and Duality aren't metal, I think. I had a B3K which was a bit harsh to me (metal?) but those two I mentioned earlier were very good.

Caps tend to keep some of the charge in them. If you want to be on the safe side, use a big resistor and, well, if you knew this, you know what to do.

These quick taken pictures are just phone quality, but give you an idea of the magnets (of the 40DC).

Last page, please: https://www.additive.sandvik/globalassets/5.-news-media-stories/publications/meet-sandvik-mot-sandvik/archive-pdf/meet-sandvik-pdf-archive/2013/meet-sandvik-2013_2.pdf Some material data: https://www.steelestores.com/grade/qb-sandvik-audioflex-a.html 5.5 % Nickel 0.18 % Nitrogen 3.2 % Molybdenum 22 % Chromium The rest is plain Iron (Fe), 69 % https://www.steelestores.com/grade/qb-sandvik-audioflex-e.html 1 % Titanium 9 % Nickel 4 % Molybdenum 2 % Copper 12 % Chromium The rest is Iron, 72 % Here you have two recipes with varying ingredients. These are not the only ones, but represent the family of stainless steels. Stainless steel includes nearly always Nickel, although there are few exceptions to this. Electric instrument string cores do always contain Nickel and the materials are magnetic. Please remember that the core can be very different material from the winding (from plastic tape to SSRW).

The type 35 tells the width, 3.5". If your bass has narrow spacing, the pickup may be wide enough. I do have a 40 DC in one four-string... if I find it quickly enough from my drawer (garage), I could use the magnetic film and take a picture of the magnetic structure. Yes, it is not the 35 double coil, but could give some hint of the construction of the pickup. I try to come back tomorrow, if I find the equipment needed.

Lemo and Fischer are quality, but also the most expensive connectors in the market. The smallest are a PIA to fix, if they ever get hurt - and they do in active use, like outside broadcasting.

I've seen a red 5-string Carvin B. Brunel. Black unlined fretboard. It was fab! Want one!

I bought a Krush. Inexpensive, fun. Definitely not as powerful as the IE FrantaBit. https://www.hotoneaudio.com/products/skyline/krush

@Quatschmacher, you get more space by ordering a new case from @GisserD...

This should be here:

...although we know that some CF necks have been defect. Modulus has had issues just like Steinberger and Moses. Delamination, warped necks... A stable and normalized production line is the ultimate everybody tries to reach - within reasonable effort.

You can try to tune the E a whole step lower to make it "softer". Then finger the string from let's say 15th fret and play it while bending the string towards the A-string. Is the level changing substantially? If you can hear a real change, then probably your pickup isn't wide enough. One way is to measure the pickup magnet(s). A film gives a good approximation of the field size of the magnet(s). EMG has had a similar magnetic viewing film: https://www.amazon.com/CMS-MAGNETICS-Magnetism-Applicable-Including/dp/B000UV6ZPS

Put the instrument cable in and out some 20 times. Do the same with the speaker cable to both ends. If there is an FX loop, put an instrument cable there and try to play. If these do not work, and the cables sure are fine, someone should open the units and find the fault. Simple speaker test: put the speaker cable to the cab and connect a 9 V battery to the free plug end (polarity does not matter) to make a snap from the speaker. Snap: working, no snap, please contact some repairperson.

If a bass is similar like her sisters, the luthier has found some kind of a "holy grail". Carbon fibre, yes and no, I still think they are different. Different than wood but also different against each other. I like the ideas of Patrice Vigier and Rob Green, but even though they use a lot of CF, I still hear subtleties between instruments. Sometimes even feels are tangible, although hard to describe. An ideal instrument could also be very dull. I am sure there is no single instrument that could serve everyone. And I am happy with that.

The only issue I have with it, is that the neck has winter/summer settings... The truss rod threads are well oiled, the tweak takes only few seconds.